Jaloosk

I think it's cute that you "liked" your own post. Anyway, my first post in this thread was that the wire was NOT sufficient (as indicated by the fact it burned out). My math's just a little screwed up.

What's the difference? A 14AWG cable is a 14AWG cable. "Speaker" cables carry power just like "power" cables. It's electricity that's driving the speaker, after all.

^ Me too O really? Show me how you calculated the 140amps. Spoiler: Jaloosk don't read this before answering. This is how you actually calculate it. 2000W at 1 ohm= 44.72V x 44.72 A But that's 44.72V RMS, the rail voltage will be 63.24V and the amperage will be 31,62A.(but this calculation has nothing to do with the power going thru the speaker wire.) So the most amperage the 14g wire will see on a 0db test tone at 1 ohm without any "rise" is 44A. ANd if he plays music which is dynamic it will be closer to 20A and because the ohmage of the sub changes with each frequency, the wire will barely see a constant 10-15A. EDIT: 14guage wire has a capacity of 15-25amps depending on circumstances. So the wire itself isn't the problem, it was probably not connected good enough. 2000w/14.4v = 138.8A I know it's not exact, but I always thought it was a good guideline. FWIW, according to the american wire gauge table 14AWG cable can only safely support up to 32A...what source do you use for gauge capacity? I'm using this: http://www.powerstre...m/Wire_Size.htm If there's something better for car audio applications, I'd be interested in it!

I use 12g on my front speakers and 10g on my sub. If you're running 2000w at 14v you're able to run a max of 140A through your speaker wire. For that you need like 4AWG wire, but you're not running full-tilt all the time.

Wire's too small. Need bigger wire.

<likes> Could definitely use it, too!

I'd spank the teacher, especially if she was hot.

I thought it was beer-holder.

Nice

another vote for Rock Auto.

Started installing mine over the weekend. Stuff is great to work with.

Don't be insulting salamanders like that.

lol yeah; I'm a measure 15 times cut once kinda guy. I don't like to do things twice if I can avoid it. In other news, I posted a build log from an old one I had started on another site: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/136478-jaloosk-the-2001-mitsu-eclipse-spyder/page__fromsearch__1

Definitely; I'll be starting a build log. I suppose I could start it now...I do have some pics of previous work done already...

sweet...thanks. I'll be building this on the weekend.

That's cool; how long should the port be?

it's running off of a Sundown SAX1200D

I'll have to re-measure then post the measurements up tonight.

OK...thanks. <crumple> back to the drawing board. I'm gonna see if I can fit the sub facing backwards...it's just an odd-shaped trunk, and I'm trying to conserve as much space as possible...

Not much room to do otherwise, unfortunately. It's a convertible.

Could someone check my work on this please? I'm putting a single SSA Icon 10" in this box. Plskthxbai

You need a new IT department. We have a ton of legacy applications like that, and they ALL work with Win7, you just have to know what you're doing in order to configure the OS properly.

It's really fast (and usable) if you disable the new GUI.

You'll have to build something to hold it. Wood or MDF is easy to work with.