Jessica

Well, i wnt to run 4 12's if i do it. But that means i have to save even more money. Got plans for a 220amp alt, biggest i can get. 3 xs batteries new sub amp and some midbass speakers. plus another vehicle so i can still haul the kids around. But yea, i think four 12's and a nice fat port would look good there. edit, "good" isn't spelled "god" lol

Thats not where the box normally goes. lol

You have some messed up timing bro, Seems like every time i put up new pics of what i'm doing in my ride you put up pics right after. Stop hoggin all the attention dangit!. lol just kidding, Your ride just keeps getting nicer and nicer!

You want pics? Ok, but like i said don't laugh. I barely measured anything, i just cut until it fit. lol

So I was tinkering around today and thought i would try something. Now keep in mind this was only a test. I cut a sheet of wood and basically walled my accord right behind the front seats. It seemed to help quite a bit. The upper bass notes played much louder and the lows seemed more responsive too. Plus the bass was louder overall. But it was only two 12's on like 800 watts or something like that. Ya' i know cool story bro. But anyway I just though would share.

I might as well say i have an lc-1 also. Love it. It works perfect and i have full control over my bass. All you need is volume control, anything else would be uncivilized.

Stuff doesn't bother me any. I've full on grabbed it and pulled it up when i was doing some weeding. Guess i'm lucky that way. I have seen some warning signs around poison ivy with my name and picture on it though.

Mine will cost $550 for a 220a. So $350 aint bad.

Also,if the lumber yard cuts it, mark all your factory edges first, then have them cut about an 1" bigger than you need. I've seen some pretty wanky cuts from lumber yards and stuff wasn't even square when they got done. You don't want a bunch of trapezoids when you get home then have to try to square it back up. I use various lengths of levels. I have a 2', 3', and 4' level and a carpenters square. I clamp them were i need to cut and use a circular saw. I believe most circular saw blades are 1/8" think so remember that when lining things up.

Is it just me or is that left rear tire cambered in a bit at the top? Also, nice setup, bet it's loud as hell!

lol, You could. But the there is this So buy the mechman, or the dc or singer w/e because it's worth it.

yes

I would listen to Kranny if i were you O.P.. He can be a bit direct about things but he knows his stuff. Just answer his questions and don;t get offended. We see this thread about 5 times a day.

I would start with the grounds. Did you sand them down to bare metal or just hook to a seat bolt? we need more info to help.

Well, here is the listl We need pictures of your your electical connections, Grounds, Power, in-line fuses ect. We need exact model number of amp We need a very detail description of your electrical. I.E. Battery(s), Alternator, Wire etc.. We also need to know how you set gains, o-scope, dd-1, other? Turn the bass boost off. What are the e.q. settings on your head unit What are you xover points and infrasonic at? We will have more questions after that. Welcome to the forums.

The theater could be at fault partially. I mean the guy was wearing a gas mask for Pete's sake. Didn't that seem a bit suspicious to anyone?

If you want a c-pillar wall and have a 3rd passenger just bolt a seat in the port. Problem solved.

and i guess there is a second one now? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZ2FdzB_h44&feature=player_embedded

here is a pic. from : http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-2164912/UFO-the-Baltic-Sea-cuts-electrical-equipment-divers-200m.html And a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I89ABcl2ZC4&feature=player_embedded and another not much to see

I started drawing too. I didn't get to bracing yet, but this is what i got... guess i am learning some. lol

ok, Well, thanks for all the help everyone. Now i can get to ordering parts and do this.

Alright, that works then. I can keep my depth of 17" cause that is pushing it to get my seats to latch in the back. Then i get right about 4 cuft and can run my ports outside. One last thing, I understand why i have to have at least port width between the end of port and back of box, but Is it better to have a bit more than port width at back or is it just one of those things that you have to experiment with? Thanks.

Using your numbers and going with 18" length tunes better for me, and i can just run the ports external a few inches. Sound right?

I've heard 7-12 for aeros and 11-15 for slots. But it's kind of hit and miss. I can go 4 3" aero's and go longer, but i have to go external with the ports. No big deal but like i said, can't get anything real concrete on what i should be aiming for. if i go with 4 3" aeros i get 7.13 for the area/ft. So how much area do I need for aeros?

Guess i'll throw this up. This is what i have so far. Tell me what you think. I've done about a jillion different designs in torres and sketchup. It would help if i knew what i was doing. lol This will be for two sa-12's on a skar 1500.1. Back of a 87 accord hatch, subs up and port back. I have to have the ports up high because of the amp rack. also the port length will actually be 12.75 tip to tip with the flares, and that put the port 4" from the back of the box. I put 11.75 cause you guys said subtract 1" for aero flares. Help me out here, I really am trying to learn how to do this so i don't have to keep asking for designs. I want to be able to do this myself. It's just kind f hard to find good info.