Jessica

My clarion will "hang" sometimes if i unplug and plug my usb drive in too quickly. Plus it has a kajillion files on it and my headunit only reads like 2/3 of a kajillion files at most.

I put $100 a month away into a separate account for my fun money. It's not much it wil be $200 a month once we get some things done on the house. Like my roof i'm redoing right now and windows and siding and stuff. Having 2 kids really eats the money. There is a saying that goes "Being a dad means you keep pictures of your kids where you use to keep your money". But if i want something bad enough i just haul a load of scrap iron for a quick buck.

I'm running my mids around 65hz on my ep2x, everything below is -18db. That will change when i get my mid-bass speakers. I only have it that way cause drums like tom's and snares sound thin and tinny if i don't. Not to mention male vocals sound fuller and warmer that way too. (guys like Garth Brooks and Josh Turner dip down lower than you might think. Plus my mid are good to 50hz.

You should expect to get a a lot less vocals and midbass in your subs when you use your LPF properly. You might want to see if your amp has an lpf and if it is enabled. Where you set it just depends on things like your musical tastes and what subs you have and the enclosure they are in. Whatever you do i think 80hz is a good starting point for an lpf and then adjust down from there.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/GPS-Navigation/AVIC-F90BT looks like 3 pairs. one for subs two for everything else. But you are right. you ninja

because the Fony only does 250W x 2 into 2 ohms, and yours does 300X2 at 4ohm? that answer your question?

Hey, i have a switch on mine! i agree, but the o.p. wants a relay so i was just trying to help. lol

I think you want to run ground straight form amp to meter. Hook your relay up to a switched+ and any ground. then run + from amp to one side of realy then off the other side to meter. Is that what you are saying? Don't take my word on this but i think that's right.Also, i think you need a "NO" or normally open relay. Someone correct me if i'm wrong. i say this because i think most 12v relays are 4 wire. they have pos and negative for switching the relay on/off, then two other pins that are either open or closed that complete the circuit. Hope i didn't confuse you, do you have a relay we can see before you buy so we can tell you how to wire it? Also i'm talking about a seperate set of wires from your amps power wires, like some 14ga or 16ga.

I'm not trying to dash your ideas or stifle your creativity, but there is method called the "kiss" method. It means "Keep it Simple, Stupid" I'm not calling you stupid, it's just sometimes the simplest method is the best. If you have the cash to burn go ahead and have fun. Let us know how it turns out and post a video!

I'm saying use "line out" not" Speaker Out" You hook that thing to your amps speaker terminal and it will die. you should plug an rca into a line out of your amp if it has it, or split (y adapter) off one going to your amp already and then strip the other end and hook to where the mic was. All in all its a bad idea all the way around if you arent using the microphone imho.

That microphone is like you say, a speaker. Just opposite, instead of turning electrical energy into acoustical energy, it turns acoustical energy into electrical energy. But, the amount of electrical energy is ity-bity. That's a scientific term by the way, it means small.(probably millivolts) You will be throwin' way way too much energy into that controller using your amps speaker outputs. A "safer" method, and i really don't approve of this, is to use an extra set of line-outs hooked to it. That should be more than enough and you will probably still need a resistor. Maybe use the amps line out if it has it. -=-=-=-=-=-=-= This part is only applies to daydreamers and Chuck Testa Something that could more reliable but stupidly expensive is to find an o-scope and with some McGyvering use it to control the lights, since it will be using a waveforrm of the electrical signal sent to the amp instead of just a raw signal. But that would just be stupid

I think that was the 9104 from last year. mine has a cooling fan and it's in my wheel well under lexan.There is hardly any airflow there. You can see it in my build log. it never goes into protect and i crank that thing quite a lot. Yeah, i know i should give it some air, and i will.

I will say that i am happy with mine. I think with it hooked to my 3013ps subs in 2ohm it gets pretty loud and thats in a sealed box. Would love to see what it can do in a ported enclosure. I know it tickles my left ear and others have said that it makes their ears itch.

i can clamp mine tomorrow. If i get time. It's hard to do since i have to find someone to help. If i do it i will pm you. One thing though, i drop from 14.4 down to about 13.5 at full titl so i can't promise i will get you a accurate reading for the 14.4v rating.

email them for the port specs and pop it in torres calculator. Plus with an L7 you would think you would double baffle or at least 1" baffle. More i talk about this box the more i'm scared of it

Well, MDF is what 35-40 a sheet for 3/4 and 1" is 40 to 45. it doesn't say if its 3/4 or 1" mdf but once you figure gas to go get mdf, wood screws, glue. carpet and your time is worth something. Plus that box could use a little bracing.

Yep, that worked for me too.

edit.

I've heard that, just didn't know how true it was cause' i heard it on the interwebz.

You see, they always say "try to keep your speed constant" when on the highway. but then they say make "smooth even stops". So you basically coast to the stop sign and brake gently so your engine is just idling as you decelerate. I understand that, but technically wouldn't it more fuel efficient to run 60mph until the last possible second then stop as quickly as possible? I know, i know, you are gonna destroy brakes and tires and other stuff this way. But strictly speaking MPG, i think crazy psycho stopping is the most advantageous. But anyway, smooth acceleration and stops. Keep your car tuned up, Tires inflated properly, don't run the a/c, keep the windows up. so on and so on.

Don't buy a kenwood 9105d. i own one, its regulated to 900rms even though it will do 1 ohm it still only does 900 at 2 or 1. Plus it "accepts" 4ga wire but they don't give you good power connectors to hook that size wire too. Don't get me wrong, It's a good stable amp and does fine for me. But if you want to get those subs you will want something better. Well, it's like I've said before, I'm on a budget, if you can find me a better amp for the same price or less it would be much appreciated, but for now this is what I'm sticking with, and it's not like I plan on keeping it, like we all do, we sell our old stuff to get bigger stuff, this is just what I'm starting out with. Well, when you decide to sell maybe i will buy it and strap them or something.

Don't buy a kenwood 9105d. i own one, its regulated to 900rms even though it will do 1 ohm it still only does 900 at 2 or 1. Plus it "accepts" 4ga wire but they don't give you good power connectors to hook that size wire too. Don't get me wrong, It's a good stable amp and does fine for me. But if you want to get those subs you will want something better.

Not to back seat moderate, but can you sell if you only have 2 posts? Even if someone asks for something?

or a simple toilet plunger could work,

I would think holding the engine at above idle when parked would lower your temp. The water pump is spinning faster and circulating more water. The small amount of extra heat from the extra fuel is negligible. Since your car is a few years old i would look at your a/c condenser that sits in front of your radiator. Is it full of bugs and crap. Then look between it and the radiator, is it full of bugs and crap? Also, you may just check your water since it may be low or have some build up of rust or minerals from hard water. You could flush the cooling system then refill it and your reservoir. Since you have a/c i would assume you have a 4 core radiator. You could look into that though because if it is a two core or you replaced it with a cheap one you may want to just upgrade it. More water more cooling. One last thing Check the thermostat. You can pull it out and drop it in boiling water, if it opens and then closes after it cools it's good. A lot of this has already been stated i just wanted to confirm. Your a/c not blowing cool is normal when your engine gets overheated, it does that to lower engine heat. It will also disengage under full throttle or when going up steep heels in a high gear at like 3/4 throttle or so.