john253a

i think you'll be better off with the sa12 in that box, the skar will work just as well, but with the high tune i feel the sundown will outperform it. but it will come down to power, and the box being built and sealed properly, did you fit the 45"s in the port and radius or 45 the inner wall, as this is very important,

I tend to agree with the tune, idd say you would peek at 37-40hz Myself with that sub I would be more inclined to go 2.5net @41-42hz as that sub is more suited to a sealed box, But without knowing what you expect from them it would only be my opinion

you box isnt 33hz @ 3.9 it 35hz @ 1.96net each, manufacturer recommends 35hz for this sub @ 1.4-2.5net, so everything is where it should be, how much power you running to them

ive got sa8v1.5 and v2 and i can tell you they get low, even in a trunk, i love my 8 as i still keep my trunk, not add too much weight to the car, and they get low, im driving my v1.5 at 500rms each

Why is this ??? I'm tuned at 22 htz and can hit a 140 db at 28 htz every time I roll next to a termlab ... But aint in a glass box on 300watts with a single sub in trunk Correct me if I'm wrong Yes it's possible but not with his limatation so far

If your want a better experience ht is right Build another box, a real box They should be 12cuft net with 180sq" of port on that power, I use to run mine in 7net 90sq" And tune then high like 35-37 for a balance of loud and sq(even no there sq is pore) Or lower if you don't care about number But in 12net at 37 they'll still get low

If you only want to drop 300rms to the sub Dint wast you time with sa8v2 Get something else And if you don't want 200ponds in the trunk Go sealed 15 and be done with is or single ported 10 or 12 The bigger the box tue more it weights 2 sa8v2 will need close to 2cuft gross and a min of 300rms each If you get only 1 idd want 400-600rms other wise you won't even no it's there What you budget? Amp yes/no what is it? Size your willing to give you? And elect system? Most stock systems can handle 4-500 sub 4-500 speakers I use the kicker(yea I know) zx700.5 a lot on stock electrical systems and it works out well

When I use PVC I get flanges and grind out the stop lip so it can slip all the way over the pipe Then I use plumbing glue on the flange to pipe and silicon on the flang face to mdf and screw or bolt it to the mdf Nice first build. Didn't come out that bad, I've seen a lot worse As long as it's sealed up and port is tuned propley once it's got paint or carpet you wont no the difference, Happy building

when you double you subs you get about a +3db gain, for a start you lose that, secondly when you set the crossovers they will be about a 6db slope (they drop 6db per octave) so when 1 sub is playing in a 6db+ difference at the same hz you will only here the lower db one as higher one is canceled out these figures are not exact as i dont not you exact setup, but you will lose a lot of sound and not be as loud+ will sound like shit

look at the bfg km2 (half all train half mud) they look sweet i dont know if you get maxxis over there but there creepy crawler looks the goods to M/t is just a name that you get bent over for

not to mention the ohm gain or drop, run all 4 or do an active set up, i vote for active

they will cancel each other out, set both amps as close to the the same as possible

if you are going to run them straight off the hu you will need a 4.7 Mf capacitors in line

i use a RHR CH 600 (60 amp constant supply)

for a start fit the biggest thing you can under the hood min. xs d1200 (and if not fit, try a d925 or d975) with an upgraded ele, but if you have no success, do an off line ele system (separate from car) get a gm 180+amp(220 prefered) alt and fab some brackets and fit that with a xs d3100 or 2 in the rear

what state you in, also consider warranty issues, with this as you are excepted to cover freight each way, so quite ofter it is cheaper to just buy another one unless you buy something that is available mainstream here, and then you can take to repairs here and get it fixed, the only thing is to get a current mdl that way when you dont have a receipt they can still tell the age of the item, i brought some items over before christmas and 1 was vacuity, and another 2 were the wrong mdl (not what i had ordered, rant the supplier (they were happy to change it all over) but not cover shipping outside of the us (as they all do) and by the time i covered shipping both ways i was cheaper to buy it all again. just some things to be aware of

and once you go over 1000 including shipping you have to pay an additional 10% tax, you normally get a phone call from the shipping provider and you need to pay it straight away, last time i got a call be FedEx at 2:30 in the morning and had to caught up $400 in sales tax (witch i knew about) because they does except payment on pickup like some others do for the shipping tax the only way is to slip the seller a few extra $$$ to falsify the purchase price to keep you under the 1g the only down side is if there is a problem in transit you will only be reimbursed the amount on the packing slip

audio savings isn't free to aust, read the disclaimer its only free to us (exempt Canada and Hawaii) there shipping is however cheeper then sonic, they want $280 for shipping and $580 for sub so $860us

think again mate the au to the us $$ is crap at the moment it the lowest its been in 2 years 98cus gets a 1 au so it about $580 au, and $20 transfer fees if you use paypal and between $3-400 au to ship it and if you over the 1g mark so you will also have to pay 10% GTS edit i just ordered a fiq 15 and freight was $380 to Victoria on the cheapest route and that sub is lighter then the xxx15 last week i order another set of sa8v2 (2 off subs) and freight was $280 i also got a set of smd 12 and they were 430 freight

thats the same as asking was your mum good or shit last night? some will say good and the others will say shit, it all comes down to car,box and power, my opinion is for the price it crap, but as a product it does what meant do well but wont last the distance, and doesnt love overpowering like some other brands in that price bracket is there better stuff out there hell yes, is it over priced yes does it get loud and low yes will your mates here you coming a block away yes will you be pleased with it (only you can answer this) if you can get a good price on it then yes it a good product

the thickness of the wire is only half of the equation the length is just as important if not more then the diameter as it is all about voltage drop, so as long as you know how long you run is you can choose the appropriate wire size and be done with it, no guess work required

if i were you stick with what you have and toy around with the box, you can go upto 6cuft net each with thoes subs idd aim for 8.5 net 140sq" of port @ 40hz (or low if you prefer, are you happy with the current tune?) unless your happy to wall them in that case 10net @ 160sq" or 12net @ 190sq" 40-42hz

just trace the 6" aero port on some 1" mdf, cut it out get some sink foam from the hardware store,(use the 1/4 or 3/8x 1/8 stuff) place it on the mdf all the way around twice( so you you have 2 circles) screw it to the port with the original port screws Now you have 3 tune options of 2,3 or 4 ports open (33,40 & 46hz)