weshole

Well, Im throwing my hat in the ring here as well. I use this feature quite a lot and now.. POOF! Gone. Hope it does get fixed. This feature really streamlines the navigation of this site for me.

IN!!!!

Frustrating

I know the XXX's put out quite a bit of midbass and they sound great doing so. I have posted a video of mine doin some work multiple times on here. May as well post it again.

IN!!!!!

I'll add to this. I absolutely love my Atomic Apocalypse 8's

I see the redesign doesnt fall short of the 1st gens. Its good to see. I have a set of the 1st gens in my 240 running off a Zapco Ref1000.4 seeing similar power and they DO take a beating and come back for more all the while sounding good. Nice thing about the current generation is mounting depth is far improved upon vastly.

It could be any of the things listed above. But unless you have any knowledge on what your looking for/at, your going to need to have someone else fix it anyway. I know wanting to save money but, in this case, bring it to a reputable shop and pay the diagnostic fee and KNOW that the problem is resolved. But if you insist on trying to fix it yourself... Here's a FREE thing to try. If there is indeed a heat shield rattle or even a catalytic converter with a loose element inside, it will not only rattle while running, it will if you hit the exhaust. So try this. Wait til the car is cooled off, jack it up, crawl underneath the car and proceed to bang the butt of your palm against the exhaust pipe in a few places to see if there is a rattle. Having had both the heat shield and converter element break free on different vehicles, I can say that this will help narrow down the possibilities. This video shows what can rattle in a converter.

Typically, if it was the lower ball joint, it would be all cambered in at the top and kicked out at the bottom. This one appears to be just steering out but the wheel itslef is level vertically. But I have been wrong in the past. Def post pics.

Looks to me like you broke a tie rod end. Probably passenger outer. get it towed to a shop to have it replaced and realigned. And.... Replace the axle again.

Sausage wrapped in bacon, sandwiched between two ham steaks with a lil cheese please?

After quite a few vehicles with lowered suspension, I will say coilovers are the best answer. I have done a few cars with lowering springs on stock struts including a 92 eclipse. I have not been happy with any of them. The problem with stock struts is that they are designed with a certain set of moving parameters when manufacturing and with lowered springs, it puts the movement lower on the strut than it was designed for resulting in a harsh ride and it is hard on struts themselves. Also, 3-4k is quite a bit for even coilovers for your vehicle. If I may, I will suggest a set of Tein Flex Coilovers. I have used them and currently have them on my 240sx and love them. You will possibly firm up the suspension over your factory struts but they are adjustable on both ride height AND damping force on both bound and rebound. You can set them on full soft and be very comfortable while losing wheel gap and maintaining a smooth ride. And they are around 1500.00 not 3-4k. There are even less priced coilovers out there and some may be comparable but with my experience in DSM's, Tein seem superior in many aspects. http://www.andysauto...in00039990.html

Thx sir. The interior is being redone.

Names Wes. Live in Fergus Falls, mn. Drive. 1992 240sx System. Pioneer Avh P4300dvd Zapco reference 1100.1 Zapco refrernce 1000.4 Zapco Dsp6-sl Re Audio XXX6.5 comps Atomic apocalypse 8" subs (2)

Ya I just stumbled on to it a few days ago. And yes, I would be ashamed to post it. Especially ED posting it themselves.