Sonic

op, use a good pair of 8'' midbass driver along with a proper ported box and you will be happy.

This is called real world testing , dont get discouraged, there is no substitute for experience and thats what you are gaining. You want pics? Ok, but like i said don't laugh. I barely measured anything, i just cut until it fit. lol

How about sealing off the trunk, i.e. firing sub and port into cabin? Would be much more easier if it would work in your application and fit your goal.

http://www.sonicelec...t%5BIgnore%5D=1 P.S. I have no Affiliation to that company. just sayin , you can find it else where as well...

Certainly !

8'' is way better for the mid bass ! Also, you would want your midbass closer to your mid range driver and not behing you. Forget the rears doors ! A good idea is to buy a good 3 way component set and install it in the front with good sound deadening, they are a bit expensive but saves you a whole lot of trouble. JMHO. Forgot to mention, if you insist on having rears, then use a 6.5 and just remove the vocals with moderate power for just ambiance.

No your tweeters and 6.5's would be in momo, they should be in stereo, hence, left and right. If you have to, then what would be more workable would be to pair one tweeter and one 6.5 on one channel (1) and the next set on channel (2) , and maintain your left and right input on your rca's. If you really want to run active then you will have to use the entire 4 channels for the tweeters and 6.5's.

Sundown all the way...

Good job mann..

Bad idea, if you do that you would not maintain the left and right stereo configeration.

there is a router in one of the pics and a jig saw..

nice work !

As a box designer and builder my self, I have followed and checked Joe X and also others work and I can tell you this, he know his stuff !!!!

They are lots of info online about different types of enclosure and its pros and cons, you need to give more info as stated above, like maximum height, width and depth of the space you have to work with, type of vehicle, listening taste (type of music you listen to), overall goal etc...

For $30 try it !

Hmm here an idea, you can calculate it (fluid dynamics). just kidding that's alot of work I have tried it ..lol..., easier to build a proper box. lol... Oh God I hated a fluid dynamics...Ive never in my life had to work so hard for a damn C+... Lol I hear ya ! lol... the key is to understand the principles, but your math has to be on par too. ..

Box # 1

The box is tunes approx 30 Hz, definitely the port area is way too small as also stated above. The reason I suggest the same dia. aero port is it would not change the tuning of the box ( which you like) and will reduce some of the port noise and keep everything else the same. A cheaper alternative to the aero ports would be to use the pvc or abs pice and heat the end to flare it. The ideal way is to consider building a box to suit those subs, might be cheaper than you think.

http://creativesound.ca/details.php?model=4FP

Replace it with this...http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-352

Hmm here an idea, you can calculate it (fluid dynamics). just kidding that's alot of work I have tried it ..lol..., easier to build a proper box. lol...

If the port exit dosent have a little radius, (which in most cases with prefabs) then putting one might help reduce the noise.

A good refresher ..lol... sometimes we tend to overlook these things...