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realflow100

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About realflow100

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  1. if you turn your volume down to like half. do some songs still make the clipping light activate when the bass would "hit"? or what certain points your talking about with heavy bass drop? that shouldn't neccessarily be an issue as long as the gain is set right with sinewave tones of -0dB
  2. the music itself can have clipping regardless of your amp gain. so there could be clipping at 1/10th volume just because the song has clipping in it. I'd re-set the amp gain with pure sinewave test tones. and check for clipping with sine waves and by ear to make sure theres no clipping at any frequency. so check the frequencies that give the most power to your subwoofers as well. you dont want any clipping at any frequency with a sinewave. make sure your volume on your head unit and stuff is set to the highest. before setting your gain on the amp. start out with the gain on the lowest and slow turn it up until you hear distortion. or the clipping light comes on. and back it down a little. you can also use a clamp AC meter with a multimeter to measure the RMS AC voltage to calculate the watts going to your subwoofers to make sure you arent overpowering your subwoofers past their RMS wattage rating once the gain has been set. its ok if the clipping light comes on occasionally (peaks of songs) but shouldn't be continously lighting up. play songs that dont have a whole lot of clipping in them. listen to them at low volume just to make sure they sound clean and dont sound distorted. if they sound clean at low volume. dont worry about it some songs can trigger the clipping indicator from hard hitting bass peaks.
  3. its still getting toasty. not worryingly hot but it gets close to that point. any idea? it works perfectly fine otherwise
  4. Only hook one speaker to each set of bridged output. if the amp can handle 4 ohm bridged it should be fine and not blowing any fuses. blowing fuses means you have a wiring problem with the subwoofers. or the ohm load is past the recommended ohms going from the subs to the amp. or you have wired it really wrongly into the amp distortion and horrible clipping is from not enough power. the subwoofers could suck inward or outward if its dropping voltage really badly while playing. there shouldn't be any problem if the amp can handle 4 ohms bridged. check the fuse rating on the amp. make check online photos of the amp to see if you have the correct fuse rating for it as well.
  5. if the amp can be bridged wire it from channel 1 - to channel 2 + then do the same for the other subwoofer. dont parallel the amp outputs. thats not how it works. and can ruin the amp. so you'll only have the two wires from each sub going to the amps two sets of left+right channels theres a way to also set up the RCA inputs so the subwoofers can act in stereo mode if it has 4 RCA inputs 4 channel amps can be confusing. look up diagrams of how to do it. it should also have bridged markings on it to show you what - and + to wire the subs to to make them bridged.
  6. 18 18's inside a semi truck trailer or something lol
  7. theres the smallest chance in the world that the sub was wired wrong from the factory. Extremely unlikely. but still a chance it could happen. Thats the weirdest thing ive ever heard! Its also possible the amp could have a weird defect that causes DC or broken signal to pass to the subwoofer for some reason.
  8. Ive tested different voltages. its just sitting on a sheet of glass with little plastic feet I made for it from 11.5v to 15.5v it doesnt really get any hotter or cooler with different voltages. about the same. my room ambient temperature affects it a lot more than the voltage applied to it. im using a 15.5v 10A power supply hooked to a 600W buck converter dropping the voltage down to 14.9v and charging a bank of ultra supercapacitors (six 500 farad caps in series with high current 1/0awg wire and cable going for every power connection directly to the super capacitor bank to the amp except for RCA and remote wire and speaker wire speaker wire is 4awg. super overkill wire but i had it lying around so thought I might as well use it. the amp is 4 channels bridged down to 2 channels for stereo subwoofer operation. powering two 4-ohm 12-inch subwoofers with low pass filter turned all the way to 40hz otherwise i hear vocals coming through the subs if i put it any higher. its rated for 2x 4ohms bridged operation the caps are able to keep handle the power just fine. the voltage stays fine right around 14.8 to 14.9v even under maximum load the subs dont get hot. the amp doesnt get any hotter than when its just sitting vs putting power to the subwoofers The subs are two 12-inch single 4-ohm subs. One on each bridged channel
  9. without any signal being applied. bass knob (volume knob) turned all the way down. it gets pretty toasty after a while of being on without playing anything. is that normal? it draws around an amp just sitting. is it dissipating all that power as heat? why does it draw so much power when idle? with the remote switch turned off. it draws absolutely zero current. not even measurable in micro amps scale. it gets pretty hot to the touch. if my room is really cold. its pretty warm but not enough to burn my fingers. if my room is toasty. it gets searing bloody hot after a while playing music doesn't seem to make it any hotter though. I can play my subwoofers for like 20 minutes and it doesnt even get warmer. is it abnormal for the amp to get so warm and draw so much current when idle?
  10. it was a little bit of a struggle with the suction cup thingy but I got it after a minute. i had to start at some specific spot near to the edge and pull the suction cup while sliding it towards the center without it popping off early since its not a big one. but I got it lol
  11. Update: Accidentally pushed in the right subwoofers dustcap with my foot while fumbling around in the dark after a power outage. I managed to find a car window suction cup thingy and got it popped back out. so far I dont see any dents or crease lines or light areas on the dustcap anywhere. does anyone think its going to be fine? is it going to sound worse now in some way? would it measure any different before and after if it was measured before and after being pushed in and popped back out with a spectrum analyzer or something? when it was pushed in i didnt see any crinkles or lines in the dustcap it looked almost like a simple inverted dustcap
  12. dustcap was cracked right in the center. so I took a razer blade around the edge of it carefully on both subwoofers and cut out the logo to get rid of the cracked area. then glued a new dustcap over top of it. looks much better and beefier now. and sounds better too. no more hissing/whistling sound from the crack in the center of the logos now. I think I did an okay job on the glueing. one is slightly messier than the other but I think it looks fine for what i was working with. looks better than before though thats for sure. the cheap looking 3D logo now gone and replaced with a much nicer looking dustcap
  13. its like it got pushed on and bent the cone all around the edge. at first glance its not really noticable but if i gently push on the dust cap it will be visible that its bent inwards towards the spider a little bit all around the edge of the subwoofer. should I replace it? or will it be fine? it doesnt seem to affect the bass quality or volume that I can tell. its not very high wattage subwoofer. so 20 watts or less most likely. its got speaker outputs for left and right built into the sub box. so its self powered. Is there anything I can do to maybe stiffen the cone where it got bent? anything i can apply to the surface maybe? a thin layer of epoxy or something?? any kind of cone treatment substance or something? or should I just chuck it and get a new one? the spider and surround are pretty tough and stiff. you would end up punching in the dust cap before it would bottom out! How long should I play audio to loosen the spider and surround and will it improve the bass response and make it more efficient?
  14. Is there any advantage to this kind of design over regular sealed/ported designs? Would it sound good for a home subwoofer sound system setup?
  15. What kind of subwoofer box would this be? Its like sealed and ported at the same time.. Please ignore the wrong direction of subwoofer and how terribly its drawn.
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