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bcbrassard

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Everything posted by bcbrassard

  1. C-Pillar panels done & back in.... One layer of SecondSkin to add a little mass and weight. This was much faster to use the stock template to cover the panel instead of cutting squares or strips. Duh... Turned out good and only took about an hour with cleaning and deadening. I decided on the luxury liner pro. I have it, might as well use it every place i can where it will help the most. I can always use the other product on the rear doors and trunk lid. This shit is $80 a roll and the other is $50. The Velcro seems to work well adhering the Luxury Liner Pro to the panel, I used a polyurethane roller to marry the two up. Went in nice and snug. These haven't been in for over a year also so nice to have a few things finally done. passenger side is the same. These panels weigh like 5x heavier after being treated. Sorry for the shitty picture, i usually take two just in case but didn't on this one. On both panels i used 2 mm thick speaker gasket to keep some separation of panel on panel, hoping to reduce any rattles possible from the c-pillars to the rear deck panel. That's the channel the C-pillar slides into and once locked into place pushes down on the rear deck panel to keep in location. I love deadening and wire management. One changes the acoustics of the environment, and the other is for looks. Not much to look at for a base model Malibu but if anyone every breaks it down besides me they will find a shit ton of work behind the panels. Those stupid child car seat tie-downs are going to need some attention, i am thinking speaker foam on the hinges and where it closes. Just to keep from bugging the shit out of me.
  2. Updates from the weekend: 6 hrs worth of deadening. I cut all squares out individually on the first layer. Second layer i cut strips to make it faster. Was it worth it, not really but what the hell. Added a pound or so and made it stiffer. Luxury Liner Pro Velcro'd down and sealed off with Dynamat aluminium tape. The 3 tapes i used, .8" Velcro & 2". Plus the Dynamat. Rear deck panel on and done!!! Now to tackle the C-pillar panels. Nice to have a pattern to work with. I will do the panels with deadening tonight and cut either luxury liner pro or just liner pro. Not sure which way to go right now. At least i got a little something done today.
  3. Update: Passenger Panel put back on so now i can say the front doors are done! So i was playing with some JBL GTO 429 coax speakers, These really helped the front stage presence but the i hooked up the RF T1962's and they sound better with the midrange and mid-bass. There will be times the rear seats will be up and sub off so i will stick with them. I almost left the fast rings alone but i could't. They looked good but i knew i could do better, plus i had another deadening material to use on the rear deck. A peak underneath the rear deck. Yep, it's still there and deadened well. SecondSkin Luxury line pro... this is some thick stuff. I wasn't going to pull the stock cotton deadening of because more work would be involved. Now to clean the cotton and hot glue up. And i need to trim the plastic ring around the speaker for the new fast rings to marry up properly These snips did most of the work well enough. Dremel cleaned the rest of it up good enough. I will take the rear panel home and cut a shit ton of squares to add mass to the rear deck panel. Why....what else is there to do, wife needs a break on the weekends, No church Services and with the hunker down order nothing is open. Final trimming of the Luxury Liner Pro. SoundSkin speaker rings with SecondSkin Luxury Liner Pro. I had two boxes, not much left of the first one. Now i need to figure out the best way to mount it. On the rear deck with Velcro? Under the deck panel with Velcro? I watch a few vids, and do i need to cut out for the satellite radio box there or should i mount it on top? I had it off to deaden under it. I think that should work? Happy Easter guys. More to come next week.
  4. Thanks man, it really means a lot to me. I am partly lost with this hunker down situation, my church hasn't had services in person for a month. The online services are no where near the same. The wife and i are doing Christian Counseling that we just started. We love each other dearly, the last 5 years has thrown a lot of external pressures and situations are way that we never really dealt with. We both have a very strong work ethic and just put our heads down to put one foot in front of the other to make it thru each day. For the last couple years i was self medicating with weed, which she hated, so i got on some good meds and have leveled out to a even keel. She has had time to reflect also and she know i am 100% here for her and our son. So thank you again. As for the build i guess it was a good thing i bought up almost 10k worth of tools and equipment. The goal was to get it done by this spring/ summer but now if i could get to where i could put the interior mostly put back in so it is out of the downstairs extra room that would be great. I have a pretty good layout in my mind, rerunning power inside changes it a little but i think i can get some shit happening pretty quick next week. I don't come over on the weekends unless invited to give her space. On a sad note... The Lancer trunk batteries to a shit on me, had no tunes for a few weeks. It took about a week to charge one back up and the other is holding at 10.7 but won't hold higher than than no matter how i try to charge it. So i am running one battery in the trunk and two under the hood. I bought a 5 amp battery tender to replace the 2 amp one in the car. Where i am stay is only 7 minutes away from the house so between the AK cold and lack of driving or charging the batteries more often that one Kenetic Engery HC1800 is dead and the other is ok. At least i have tunes again, getting into the SQ side of music so i don't have to or want to run full tilt. Just enjoying having tunes again. If i had the ability i would ditch the RF power series amps and replace the with some Zapco's. Close to same cost with better SQ IMO. This build is now about making due with what i have and finishing it for now.
  5. Thanks Guys, small updates are happening. To start with on a personal note my wife and i separated on Feb 16th after 5 rough years of marriage but are continuing to work thru the issue's even during this horrible time in American history ( yes i know the world is affected, i am a American citizen. And that come first in my book.) We are still best friends and i have been coming to the house daily to take care of my step son, the house and her needs as she will let me. We are all happy and healthy on this end but as you can understand this build is not as important and my family's well being and happiness during these struggling times. The wife gets to work from home so i set her up a office in the living room 2 weeks ago and my son is currently back to doing 7th grade school work which he needs my help. I am unemployed but i usually am at this time until the construction season starts up in mid April or May. Hard to tell when it will start with this going on. I am a underground utilities specialist: water, sewer & storm drain systems. In Alaska it can be 7' deep up to 20' deep where as in the states in can be 2-4' deep in warmer states. On to the build..... This is the fast ring system before i found a better product so i had to redo the 6.5" speakers in the doors. SoundSkin rings. Solid product IMO. These can be stacked up if you need that much filler. Normally your speaker spacer should fill in that distance IMO. I did run some soundskin deadener around the ABS spacer rings for looks but other than that and the new speaker foam door is the same. Nice to have this door panel back on.... it's been off for over a year. Now to remove passenger side to redo. Old Stinger Fast ring system removed and cleaned up. Deadening around the ABS ring and SoundSkin speaker foam installed. Another look at the door, again nothing else added, just redoing speaker ring system. Here i took a ruler to show how compressible the ring system is so trimming isn't always necessary. Pretty fucking sweet IMO. Purchased on amazon, $25-30 i think but worth every penny. Now i have to redo the rear deck speakers because i can't help myself. Hear are the specs for the product. Most fast ring system are not CCF so the do very little in directing the sound. I hope to redo the rear deck speakers and rerun the power inside the car this week. I was smoking crack thinking running power outside a low riding car was a good idea. A truck for sure i would. Hopefully more pics to follow this week. A shout out to Peter from PSSound in England. This guy is a super SQ build installer with a ton of info that i have not seen anywhere else. The equipment he uses is worth more than my car and system together . super insane build's. The work i have done to these doors for mid-bass will be for nothing in the future. I will make some serious sealed kick panels with some killer speakers. Plus rear fill will be some wide band 3-4" speakers in the C-pillar off the DSP to enhance the front stage. Thanks for checking out the build.
  6. My Malibu stock battery was a b64 I think, I measured and stuck this d3400 big bitch in. You don't like what Xs has, buy something else!
  7. Ends crimped, heat shrink-ed & loom on. Loom is on 18' of the 20'. i single loomed it for 18" so it matched under the hood. Then i used 1.25" split loom to keep the two runs together. I will be using these to mount the loom under the car. In and hooked up to fuse block. I had little room to work and it was a real pain in the butt to weave it in and out so no moving parts touch in and serviceable. Different angle, i need the positive runs done so i can figure out where i am drilling into the trunk. And then where the positive & negative will come up into the battery and fuse block area. When i know were that is i can drill holes in the spare well baffle and then it can be painted. i will continue Monday.
  8. Still working with the wood patterns to finish & paint. Belt & disk sand work good, i went to Lowe's to get a adapter to hook up the shop vac. The piece on the stool will have to be a two part piece for battery & fuse rack. My template was off and i was out of large plywood pieces to remake it. Always adapter and make it work. This is the piece after hours of sanding & using a 45 degree champ fer bit for proper fitment. Don't need the SMD ground distribution block with battery terminal having 6 positions for grounding. Close to the end result. I am scratching my head how to get the amp rack in if it has 3" sides to enclose it and put a lid on it. Sub enclosure has to go in first with trunk baffle next and then the amp rack with very little room to maneuver it. I had to re-trim the amp riser for better fitment. First time process and trying to work issue's out as i go. With the batter & fuse rack mostly done it will be time to run 2 0 gauge positive leads under the car and into the trunk.
  9. Updates: Cardboard templates finished and bought a sheet of 5/8" maple plywood for trunk build. This was a pain but after a couple hours of measuring and trimming the trunk baffle template was finished. Layout of templates on plywood, I wasn't able to get the lid of the amp rack out of this sheet. I will have to get another sheet down the road to for the lid. Probably 3/4" so i can counter sink the acrylic window to put a false 1/4" panel on top for a stealth look. just working everything out. I would rather work thoroughly thru this process than make any mistakes. And i work slow anyway. I was able to use the new Band saw today. It's not good for large pieces but that's were the jig saw comes into play. It worked really well, no complaints for $140. All pieces cut out. The one on the floor is the spare tire well for battery & fuse. The pieces on the right are the trunk baffle. And the pieces on the left are the bass of the amp rack with the amp riser for LEDS & cooling. Taken the weekend off and will start sanding pieces for fitment. Finally some Progress!
  10. This item i received today will add a nice finishing touch to all the wiring thru out the build. A label maker. I seen cables labeled on a SQ build, it looked very professional and cleanly done. And as complex is the system is getting some labels would do me and any service tech in the future great appreciation for having them there. These are cable labels, be using these a lot. This label heat shrink tubing is awesome. Black lettering on white heat shrink. 3/8", 1/2" & 3/4" sizes for now. I need to research and see if i can find black heat shrink with white lettering. Only the white heat shrink will get used on not so visible of areas for labeling and not aesthetics. If i find black heat shrink it will add the aesthetics. $13-$15 for each of the stacks. Label maker was $60. The 2 or 3 pack deals where pretty good imo. Enough to do this project.
  11. I do want them the do be seen, hopefully some room opens up when i get to that stage. Plus getting to the fuses could be a bitch but do able if need be. Thank you for the suggestion.
  12. Thanks man! These are my first dogs and when the wife and i where talking about getting one it was my idea to get a hypoalergenic dog. These are what was availible locally when we were looking. Toy & Teacup Poodles. 12 lbs & 3.3 lbs.
  13. Amp rack layout w/ rca's, and mocked up power & ground runs. I wanted the distribution blocks like this on the bottom, but it makes really tight bends on the power & ground runs. Just not a lot room there for power/ground, rca's, speaker wires. I can only push the amps up so high for the acrylic window or it will look stupid. I will revisit this idea once enclosure is mounted and sealed off from the cabin to see how much room i actually have to work with. Extra inch could make all the difference in the word! I hate Logo's on products, to use the distribution blocks like this, they would be mounted upside down. Give me a decal or reversable logo any day. Kona wanted in on the action. This is one good dog, she is a people pleaser. She has a underbite so she is always smiling. Coco is not a good dog but is so cute can get away with it. For example i took 7 pictures trying to get her to lift her head up, she knew it and wasn't about to look up. Little Bitch! I think she picked this setup. ? This is what looked good at the time but now looking at it.... ? Floor, sides, and back side of lid will all be painted bright white to match the car with led back lighting, i think if i do it right i can pull it off to make it look good. Plywood tommorow.... so we'll see what happens.
  14. Just got the Audison Connection Power/Ground distribution block in! Little bigger than i thought it would be. 4"h x 8"w, it is a solid unit thats for sure. $90 + shipping. The power can pass thru to add another which i will do. I have another Audison Connection coming just incase i don't like this combo. Audison Connection 0 awg to 2 4 awg fused & A 0 awg to 4 4awg grounding blocks. 2 of the big distribution block might be overkill but it gives me 2 extra power outputs if need down the road. I need 6 outputs right: 3 amps, Sparked Innovations, Acc power fused distro block, 6 ? right now. Happy to have this, just another piece of the puzzle that much closer to solving.
  15. I am getting plywood thursday so i been working on equipment layout, battery location and fusing for spare tire well. Amp rack layout as of now. I have 23" of depth to use. I am going with a horizontal amp rack, Learn how to back light and throw a acrylic window over the amps and wiring. I would like a panel to cover the window for stealth mode. This is the stock carpet & panel i am using to mock up on. I have a template ready for wood, layout is the hard part, design idea # 42.0. Lets see if this one sticks.
  16. It happens fast, I was 45 and i noticed work seemed a bit harder, same shit i have done for 20 yrs. Every year after that a little bit harder to get in shape and get use to working 12 hr days. 50 is retirement from this career.
  17. I have a nature gas gararge heater (hotdog unit) plus the furnace and hot water heater are on a platform in the corner of the garage. Warm today. high 30's. We had a few weeks close to 0 degress or colder. I didn't want a huge gas bill during the colder months. Because even though we have enough nature gas to build a pipeline to the state we still pay super high prices for nature gas! I am sure way more than the northern states.
  18. Thanks, I was like that with Lancer build, would work on a upgrade for days getting little to no sleep. I use to be able to work like that but anymore at 48 yr old & having a garage... It will waite and this build is special to me so i don't want to rush steps or do shitty work just to have progress done. Besides buying up 8K worth if shit in the last 9 months i have been researching, studying on how to make this build the best i can without dumping a ton more into equipment. Right now wire management and routing are on my mind the most. I really don't to forget anything and have to add on later. I even plan to set up a couple extra relays and have a run or two head up to the dash for down the road. Its just that kinda shit that i am thinking and planning thru.
  19. I found this pic a minute ago and had to repost it just to show some people the pile of equipment that goes into small builds like mine. Imagine the pallet size load or two of equipment on these big builds. Since this pic a couple months ago i have bought a least $500 more. It seems like the list of items you need never ends but to be fair i didn't not have a clear plan of install until the time came. The time is now & i have a better idea how to attack it. Remember 95% of the deadening material is installed in the car, rear deck speakers are installed, front doors too. Sub and enclosure are being reused. It is mind blowing how much shit there is. Remember that i am in Alaska where i can't just hop down the road to get something, shit takes a week to get here from the states. So i like to have more than i need w/ options.
  20. Order showed up today, just trying to get everything i need for when i get the plywood. Need ferrules for the Audison distrobution blocks. For Led lighting if needed. 0 awg splitters and dual 0 awg amp inputs. 3/4" wide x 40' long roll of velcro on top. And 2"w x 15' long roll down below. Lots of uses for it, Panels, wiring, Sound skins overkill ccf. Led lighting & wiring. The plan is just a few nice touches her & there, nothing goddy looking. Hmm... Yaa..... Super excited about this SMD product too. I bought this and the fans because the plan is to enclose the amplifier rack, i want a plexi glass window just where the amps are mounted back lit w/ blue leds. I also think i will have to learn how to vinyl or pay someone, i want the the final bueaty panel nice as hell. Tool in needed badly. Threaded inserts for the build. I also have the rivettted inserts & the gun. Trying to do it 100% right and damn this is a ton one has to remember or shit gets missed. Different bolts for mounting the electronics to the amp rack. Few more things to show up by next week including plywood for the following weeks work.
  21. This build is getting to be againizing trying to pick the direction i need to go. I am scrapping the Infinite Baffle idea for now. Still wanting to try a 15" driver but room is real tight, i would have to make the enclosure funky to get that big of a driver in there. Plus how much $ can one throw at it? I know a lot more, but for now i will use the ported enclosure for the T1 12". I seriously thought about making a sealed box for it to try. I save 5" of trunk space all the way across in a sealed box. The ported enclosure is a Joe X design for 1,000 watts, 1.75 cu ft tuned to 33 hz. I will be running close to 2k off the T1500.1, i wounder how the power increase affects the enclosure design or effeciency? I put the enclosure back in to get a better idea which deriction i am going. Also to take measurements to draw up a design layout. This template was for the infinite baffle behind the seat. I will need to make a new template for behind the box to seal trunk off. I made this template for the amplifier rack to play with location. I think there is room to mount it under the rear deck upside down. Wiring management and layout would be more challenging to look right. Power, fuses & grounds in spare tire well, I have this maped out pretty good it is just a matter of cutting wood. This will have a access panel to get to the fuses, but i want the spare tire well done first and possible a false or raised floor. Not sure, still winging that idea. I bought these for the A-pillar speaker pluggins for quick & easy removal during servicing. I found some Audison Connection Fused distribution blocks so i ordered 3 of them. This is a dual mini fused distribution block. The other 2 are in route and will be here in the next 2 days. I still plan to use some of the SMD products in the spare tire well but i want nicer looking distribution blocks for display. I looked at a lot of different styles and brands but the Audison was the nicest i found imo. I think i spent $200 in these distribution blocks but i needed them because i didn't have all the power management finalized. Yes i could have spent a lot less and probably done the job just fine but i figure i am this deep in might as well try to get a nut in too! lol I know mostly boring shit, few more parts to come in, a little more planning and then action will happen quickly. Once i get off my ass anyway, getting plywood in a week or so and don't have the room for that shit to sit around.
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