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Gladski462

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Everything posted by Gladski462

  1. Anyone who is interested in joining a private ARK server on Xbox One, add Gamer Tag: HappyPainter416 That gamertag is the name of the profile used to run the server, not my own. It will not respond, and is run by a friend. Simply add it to your friend list, and join the game which is always open, and ALMOST always online. The current map being run is "the center." Most, if not all aspects of the game have been accellerated such as leveling, taming, harvesting ect. If you have any questions, you will receive a quicker response by contacting my GT: Gladski X 462. I'll try to check here, but i'm not nearly as active. If you do message me, please mention that you are from SMD and i'll get to it quicker.
  2. Similar amps like a Hifonics Brutus......... LMFAO. Go home, you're drunk.
  3. Ordered it, probably won't get around to playin it until Friday or so.
  4. If your going the get the Lvl 6, get the proper amp. No way around it.
  5. If your dead set on running a 5k, go with the XLs. Your old setup won't even compare. Just remember electrical comes first, don't ever cheap out there.
  6. Looks pretty solid. I wouldn't change anything. Good luck with the build.
  7. DC equipment will surely do what you're looking for, switched from Kicker to DC and never looked back. The quality build/performance of the subwoofers is far superior. What level you purchase is purely based on your budget. Speak with someone of this forum that is a dealer, and they can give you an idea of what you will get for what you're trying to spend. DC is priced reasonably, and believe me when I say you get what you pay for.
  8. Friend of mine uses a 6" aero port with his XL 15, 3.5 net cubes, I don't have any other specs beyond that, but it sounds great.
  9. I second that, I wouldn't go any higher than 36hz with these for a full range of sound on music.
  10. 1.25 cu ft. Per sub after displacements. The way you face subs and port is really personal preference and the best setup can vary with each vehicle. I prefer subs up and port facing back on driver side. That is providing you do a slot port, areo port may or may not fit facing back depending on the room you have. For me it didn't, I have a 6" aero port out the side of the box and it works just fine. Hope that helps.
  11. When I said the gain was maxed out, that was purely for testing purposes at a previous date just to see the maximum output of the amplifier. The current tuning was done correctly with a DD-1 and there is no distortion. And oddly enough, this amp actually doesn't distort AT ALL even with the gain turned all the way up, all the way up to 60/62 volume on my pioneer head unit, according to the DD-1. Memphis mojo amplifiers put out very clean power if set up correctly. ( This means proper power being supplied to them, they are power hungry and need constant high voltage to operate at their full potential in the way that I have described. So to conclude this post, the gain is NOT currently maxed out, even though it COULD BE and still wouldn't distort at the volume I was playing at the time of rattling noise. I don't know what track I used with the DD-1, sorry about that. A friend of mine more experienced in audio that has one brought his over to tune my system. and Finally I think we have all came to a conclusion that the cause of this noise/rattle/bottoming out is just random low notes that are lower than my tuning. Thank you everybody for your comments and help, it is greatly appreciated.
  12. 08' Grand Cherokee (2) DC Lvl 4 12's Memphis Mojo 2500 Kinetik Batteries Mechman 320A with VCM SMD - VM1 Why dont you use DC amps? Memphis better? And this is a serious question im not trying to be funny. I'm just doing research and want the best bang for my buck. LOL your right, it is funny, not gona lie. If I had the money to blow to get a DC amp instead I would love to, hence my comment about how they are the best, I wasn't lying. I used to run all memphis stuff in the past so its just what I had to do my build. ( Memphis subs blow, had to get rid of them, would never buy again) This amp cost me $1000 and works just fine so I wasn't about to just replace it and spend more. Although... I would have no problem accepting a donation of a free DC amp to match my subs since you guys were so concerned ........3.5k please haha
  13. What I don't understand is how this just started happened recently, I've had the subs for quite a few months and have been playing them on this power almost the whole time and i'm sure that I played tons of extreme lows before.
  14. I'm tending to agree with you there, that's probably what it is.
  15. I already said that I don't remember what song was being played. It happened multiple times on multiple different songs.
  16. I clamped this amp to find out just what power im working with. Subs are wired to 1 ohm, but with box rise, it was doing 2200w rms at 2.2 ohms at full gain, and right now I have the gain set slightly below full tilt. These subs are seeing atleast 600w below their rated rms power.
  17. Do a little research before you reply next time. Actually Level 4 12's are rated at 1400w RMS, and the box is perfectly fine, DC recommends 1.5 CF of net airspace per Lvl 4 12" subwoofer. I asked Rusty himself if my box design was OK before I had it built and he said it would do just fine.
  18. Don't remember the song, it happened a few times on different songs.
  19. Recently while playing my set of level 4 12's at high volume, only on certain notes, they start to rattle/bottom out. Just curious if anyone knows what might be going on? They are not very old at all and are powered by a Memphis Mojo 2500w amp that I tuned in with a DD-1, so they are getting a little less then their rated rms power. The box is 3 net cubes, tuned to 36hz and has a single 6" aero port. Designed it with the owner of my local audio shop, then had it built by him. The guy is very good so I don't think that the box is the problem. Besides this one problem they have been flawless so far and sound amazing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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