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Noobtastic14

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Everything posted by Noobtastic14

  1. The port flaring and rounding of the edges sounds like a good idea but you are essentially building the same box. With 8s your panels are all so small you don't need box bracing and certainly don't need any double panels. Just make sure you properly build it and you shouldn't have any issues. I'm all for improving your box but this doesn't sound like a night and day change. Make your tweaks and then make the new box pretty and let it pound. Drew
  2. If you build the box right and your panel seams are strong you will not need any bracing. You also will not need a double baffle. I suggest a nice birch ply but the classic MDF works as well. The model shows the "peaky" model still the loudest at 30hz which seems like a winner to me. You have 8s, flat means very low output unless you get it to peak where you want it to play.
  3. Doesn't AGE support the maintainer that supports the aircraft? Haha that Raytheon trophy means you did your job so fuckin good the crew chiefs had the equipment they needed to take all the credit. -Drew
  4. Louder than a 15? I think the 22 sound is very tame compared to a 15 because the engines are deeper into the body of the aircraft. But they do fly the shit out of the 22s so I understand ya there. I would like to see a video like this taken with 22s because this whole maintenance job gets really ungratifying when the jet flys circles around the base and just lands again. I'd like to see what my hard work goes towards even if it is the training sorties they fly. Drew
  5. Good vid nice post! Just wait til my raptors show up -Drew
  6. I hope you are in a low theft area because that is a lot of openly visible fancy electronics you got there. -Drew
  7. I vote you just raise the box H dimension up a half inch and do two sandwiched layers of .75" birch/oak/mdf -Drew
  8. Price point would be silly but if it came in a 4" coil option I'd be tempted to recone just for the cone. Pair it up with an accented carbon cap for a crazy look. -Drew
  9. The sub getting warm is a side effect of normal operation and should be expected. If your woofer gets blazing hot, so hot you can't touch it or it smells that is not normal and you should adjust your gains to avoid clipping or only play in short burts and allow the equipment to cool before causing damage. -Drew
  10. Do you have a rendering to show how it will be aligned? -Drew
  11. It was strong enough for twelve 15s on 12kw -Drew
  12. It was more, but not by much. I think it was $43 a sheet for normal .75" at HD/Lowes and we paid like $53 a sheet for this at the Lumber yard. -Drew
  13. How about this, Don't use 1" MDF because it sucks. Shop around your local lumber yards and actually walk in and see what kind of stock they have. Tell them you are looking for something strong and not nessessarily pretty for your project. We left looking for good ply .75" to double all the walls and ended up coming back with 1" 17ply birch that was strong as shit and light enough to handle the shell with two peole. -Drew
  14. I'm pretty sure nobody in this thread has hated on the DD-1. The arguement, is the result of the DD-1 vs a scope and a DMM. As far as I am concerned, a scope and a DD-1 will give you the same result. The only difference, is that with the scope you see the wave soft clip and stop increasing the gain and with the DD-1 the light turns on and you stop increasing the gain. With a DMM you are actually guessing because you are assuming the amp puts out rated and the farther the amp gets away from its rating the more inaccurate your gain setting will be. You are the bus driver on the road to Dbs be careful and understand that shit happens with or without a DD-1 or Scope. -Drew
  15. Will this still be there in June? I forget who was PCSing out of kadena. -Drew
  16. Yeah I would not go comparing a DMM to a scope or DD-1 -Drew
  17. No "VS" threads. Be more specific with what amp you want information on rather than comparing several possible amps. Thanks -Drew Opened up because OP wants to be more specific.
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