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Found 66 results

  1. Which do you guys prefer? I was leaning toward to RF, but on amazon the RE's are ~$40 cheaper! Ill be getting 2 of them too.
  2. http://youtu.be/7MHjN3zd-IM -ROCKFORD FOSGATE- 8 - P3D212's 4 - Punch Pro 8's 4 - T1 Tweeters 4 - T1 6.75" Coaxial's 2 - T2500-1bdCP's 2 - T600-4's 1 - 3SIXTY.3 2 - 51ft Spools 1/0awg Power Wire 6 - 15ft Spools of 12awg Speaker Wire 2 - 30ft Spools of 16awg Speaker Wire 8 - 16ft RCA's 4 - 6ft RCA's 4 - 3ft RCA's 4 - 200A Circuit Breakers 6 - 500A ANL Fuses 6 - 300A ANL Fuses 6 - 200A ANL Fuses 20 - 1/0 Gauge Ring Terminals 40 - 4 Gauge Ring Terminals - Other - 2 - VMAX Charge Tank 2500 Batteries 1 - VMAX Charge Tank 1000 1 - Custom 300A Alt made by Nate at Excessive Amperage
  3. All, I have up for sale my Rockford Fosgate T1000-4ad. I can OPEN my Sonic Acount if you want to see whatever you wanna see....... http://www.sonicelec...-T1000-4AD.html I bought this from SONIC in April. I had it mounted in the trunk on a piece of LEXAN,.. this is the BACK... Pics I passed up a chance to sell this for more, to a great member on here....... and i WILL own this amp again.... at sometime. I want 485 SHIPPED, L48. Please, no tire kicking, no trades, NO LOWER OFFERS. I have no issues reporting quick style. Ref's on the forum.Thanks. Kyle
  4. This sub was bought a couple months ago and I've run it in a bandpass 4th in my center console on one channel from my Sundown 100.4 @ 2 ohms. Gain was set clean with the DD1 and it still looks and plays like new. I paid $100 for it just a couple months ago and would like to get $70 shipped at this point, OBO. I'm also open to trades. Edit- I forgot to mention, this is a D4 sub. So if you plan on running a couple, you can buy another D4 and run them at 1 ohm on a little 500-600W amp
  5. About a year ago my friend bought an '04 Mustang with the Mach 460 Factory stereo. Replaced the head-unit with a Pioneer double din touch screen. Not long after that we put in two 10in RF p2's and move the factory 6x8 subs to the rear channel so they still made some sound to fill in. This weekend I went and installed two sets of RF Punch P1683's and a set of P1T-s tweeters to put in the door sail panels. Did the right side door first, tested it, went good. Moved to the rear deck lid, installed them, tested, sounded good. Next I went to the drivers door, ran the wires, plugged in the speakers, and that door sounded like crap. Tested the speaker and it was good so I thought it might be the wire that comes from the deck. Next day rerun the wire from the deck through to the door. Still crap. Then I pulled the wires that went to the tweeter x-over out of the picture and the door speakers sounded fine again. When I told my dad all of this later that day he thought it could be the x-over for that tweeter, so I thought i would come here and ask what you guys think. Right now hes just driving it around without that one tweeter plugged in. I will be adding an amp in for the speakers but we're waiting for it to come in stock.
  6. Name: Mitsubishi Eclipse RS (Virtue) (1996) Date Added: ÚTE_ADDED% Owner: zero6391 Short Description: None Provided View Vehicle
  7. This might be a semi slow build, I have most of the equipment, but I do need a few other things to complete it all. I traded my truck in on a 2012 VW Passat about 6 months ago and I've had a stock stereo since. This will be my first time building a ported box and my first experience with a 15" sub (SSA X-CON). When I got rid of my truck I sold my DC 5.0K, but through a stroke of luck, I was able to buy it back! The X-CON is Dual 1 ohm, so it should be good on the 5.0K at 2 ohms. I am keeping the stock head unit, but adding a Rockford Fosgate 360.3 to control everything. The door speakers will be RF T1675's for now powered by a Kicker 350.4. Knuconceptz wire, XS batteries, Dakota Digital volt meter, Second Skin are being used as well. The car the box plan trunk batteries will go in here
  8. Me and my friend built a system in his car. It is a T2500.1bdCP that pushes 3000 watts RMS/14.4V to 2 T2 15"s. This is just a basic setup with a basic box. Though this is just a basic setup, it plays pretty loud with a good SQ, and it can play really low notes. Every box starts with a plate:) The material used is 19 mm thick MDF. The rear plate is mounted. Then we added the left wall And the right wall (+ some reinforcement to strengthen the box): The reinforcement is not MDF. We demounted the reinforcement and covered "open spots" with latex (acryllic mass). We did put on the top plate, so we could see if it did fit: It did fit perfectly with millimeter-precision:) We wanted to have a nice port, so we made the port a little more smooth: We had the first frontplate now, so we mounted the second frontplate + the port (I don't have the pictures from when we mounted the port): The screw holes are now done on the top plate. Then we got the subs (he had T2500.1bdCP from before): (One sub is mine) Then we started with cutting the holes for the subs: Then the subs:
  9. Three amps for sale. All Power series Rockford Fosgate T1000-4adcp (Constant Power) T800-4adcp (Constant Power) T600-4 Mechanically 10/10 Cosmetically 9.5/10 the 800 was never even hooked up, none of these amps have ever been repaired and of course they all function as they should. Have retail packaging and all 3 birth sheets. Don't have to buy all 3, I am splitting them up. Prices are firm at this point in time, price includes shipping. U.S. 48 states only though. Paypal only, or cash if local. Thanks T1000-4adcp = $500.00 T800-4adcp = $400.00 T600-4 = $300.00
  10. Time to start a build log! The last time I had a system other than factory was about 7 years ago, and I built a new one every year or so for the 10 years prior to that. So I am not new to car audio, but I have never tried a build this large before. My main goal was to put together a system that no one around my area has done before and to have a lot of fun with my kids building it. With that said, I bought a '99 Ford Expedition with the intent to wall it off. I will be doing a C pillar design because I want to keep the back seats so that I can take my kits with me to shows and things like that. The build will include: 4 sets - SKAR Audio SPX-65C 2 - D7500 & 1 - D6500 from XS Power KW-AV71BT head unit from JVC 0 gauge, 4 gauge, 8 gauge, speaker wire, remote wire, terminal connectors, fuses with holders all from Sky High Audio Sound Deadener from NVX RCA cables from NVX 3Sixty.3 from Rockford Fosgate 2 - alternator from local dealer, claims 200 amps at idle. Alternator install kit from Nations Starts and Alternator to mount 2 alternators in the Expedition Oh yes and... 4 - DC Audio Level 6 18" subs 4 - DC Audio 5.0K amps 1 - DC Audio 175.4 amp Which all got shipped last week from DC Audio by the sounds of it, so I will have some pictures of those soon Shipping weight? 532 pounds! I have taken a lot of measurements and after removing all the panels and components that I don't need it looks like I can 38 cubic foot box gross. So after having a 3" front baffle and 2" everywhere else, with a ton of bracing I should come in around 28 1/4 cubic feet on the inside after removing volume for port and subs and bracing. Right now it looks like it should be tuned to around 36.5 Hz with a 10" port, but that can be changed yet. What do you guys think I should tune it to, I am doing this for music and demos really, not thinking of metering and running in competitions right now. Have a look at the box wall here, it is designed to be symmetrical, so the space on the sides is actually for my heater/ AC unit on the drivers side. From a suggestion I think I will plumb the AC to the back and use it to keep the amps nice and cool. Let me know what you guys think. Let the build begin. And this is some of what will be going into the Expedition Power cable, Speaker wire, Ring terminals, fuses and remote turn on all from Sky High Car Audio 2 - D7500 and 1 - D6500 from XS Power along with a new head unit form JVC as well as RCA's from NVX Audio 4 sets of components from Skar Audio A little bit of sound Deadener from NVX and a 3Sixty.3 from Rockford Fosgate Time to start taking apart the insides A little bit of spray foam in the roof channels to help eliminate the vibrating The headliner is full of holes so I will not be reusing it, so I made sure to mark how far down it comes so that when I put on the side panels that they will cover and fit nicely. I will most likely be fiber glassing the ceiling to the vinyl panels that cover the pillars, but if someone has another option or suggestion I am open to it. Started Laying down some sound Deadener last night while waiting for the spray foam to set up
  11. Finally I have a steady job where i can save up to start my build This will be my first build, it will also be SLOW..... But here it is! So i have ordered one of my subs from Sound Solutions audio "FTMFW!" great customer service! I ordered a sundown X-18 d4 and i plan on getting a second one after i get my amp, a SoundQubed 3500.1! I am late starting this, so i have already received some of my things So my ride, 2002 Escalade 6.0 in the snow here is another one with my summer wheels on i know..... they are too small Here is the 3500.1 AMP GUTS!!!!!! Hell yeah! i plan to do a plexi laser engraved backing later down the road! I also ordered a SMD-VM-1 well thats all for tonight, i will post my sub when it arrives!
  12. Finally got tired of the trunk game and picked up a 2010 Hatch Here are some pics of the cream puff. First thing I did was tint the windows.
  13. Hey guys, work in progress here! My brother over at Good Vibrations Audio is building my car.www.facebook.com/GoodVibrationsAudioFL Please check him out if you like the build! Thanks! GVA I'm Evan Otis and this is my build in my 2000 Ford Contour! Located: West Palm Beach, FL Goal: is to have a fully functional, clean sounding, & stable audio system! Bandpass box: 3:1 ratio with 2 SA Ultras on 2 2k Crescendo BC2000. Box Peaks at 37hrtz. Subs specs: 750 watt rms Front Stage: 8" Rockford Fosgate mids and super tweeters. Rear Stage: 6" Rockford Fosgate mids. All powered on a Crescendo C1000.4. Battery: Powersafe 190ah Alternator: Stock alt Here's a timelapse of the build & a short preview of it playing. Here's a video of it playing with my windshield seals blown out from bass. https://www.facebook.com/Lil.Otis.or...20?pnref=story (It's fixed now haha) We are making progress. Ultimately going to have LEDs in the box (plexi side). We are going to do an infinity mirror on the top of the box and maybe do some plexi engraving or plaques inside of the box representing GVA. Inside port we are still undecided. In the future I will most likely upgrade the subs to something that will handle more power! Current Scores are 149.3 was kick with driver door open and 149.0 was windshield driver door open. I'm confident that with some small electrical upgrades, reinforcing, and tuning we will get our 150db score from two budget subs! Making progress. Let me know what everyone thinks and I'll be happy to answer any questions! Will keep this thread updated with pics, vids, and info!
  14. FOLLOW LOG FOR SPRING '14 UPGRADES! Larger MechMan, More XS Power, RF Stuff, SHCA Cable +, & more!!! FOLLOW LOG FOR SPRING/SUMMER '13 UPGRADES! RF, Fi Audio, XS Power, MechMan, Stinger, Knu, & more!!! Installed in Spring '12: (Everything Is Box-Fresh New, ... except Kicker ZX550.3 - which I bought brand new in '05 ...) Pioneer FH-P8000BT Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 (6.5" Components) Kicker Comp C12 (2 12", 4-ohm, SVC) Kicker 05ZX550.3 (1st Generation) Axxess GMOS-01 & ASWC Dynamat 4awg POS/NEG Runs Big 3 Pioneer FH-P8000BT - AM/FM/CD/USB/iPod/AUX1/AUX2/BlueTooth ... Installing the Kappa Perfect 6.1 components in same location as the OEM components, w/ minimum modifications needed. XTC foams used to protect them, but cut open on the bottom backside to allow for venting & wire connections. Since the Infinity x-overs are so large, I am mounting them in the trunk, & keeping the front door panels in one piece, & everything will look OEM with the stock grilles untouched. Amplifier is a Kicker 05ZX550.3 - 3 channel ... 2 channel stereo & a mono block side for the subs to run in 2 ohm mode ... Everything is new, including the amp ... even though its model year is 2005, & it is well-rated over its stated power, etc. (NOT my photo.) Kicker Comps. (NOT my photo.) The trunk volume of a 2003 Monte Carlo is 15.8cf. NO part of the car's rear deck/chassis is being cut or altered whatsoever - which I think is important, ... I firmly believe in not messing with a vehicle's structural integrity. This is my first time with an IB. I have always done the two 12's, sealed, & been done with it ... but the booomin' of those enclosures has worn thin on me after 20 years, ... so I wanted to do something different ... & something no one else around here has really done, or is doing, & certainly reclaiming trunk space for road trips, shopping, etc., is an extra, added bonus. I am paying particularly close attention to wood thickness, & mixture of types of wood, & sandwiching the MDF to give the bass a "warmer" sound by eliminating any high-pitched echo effects from the denser MDF, etc. I will radius the openings slightly as the platform makes its last transition "up" from MDF to birch to help kill any air noise that may have wanted to creep up, & out ... I will break out the bondo for that task ... Smoooooothness ... I do not expect too much vibration, but I will still use Liquid Nails to seal the "planks" together, & some coarse deck screws to further secure the structure. Additionally, I have large pieces of 1/2" - 1" of very dense foam in which to place between the top of the mounting platform, & the bottom of the rear deck ... looking in from the trunk ... where the factory amp/booster used to be ... I may have to use two pieces of foam, each one the FULL size of the rear deck, to get the desired leveled mounting. Besides the nearly 1" pieces I do have, I have as thin as 1/4" ... Therefore I do have options, & am not left to shove this in there with 2" or 3" of foam, & being left to deal with it. The type of IB platform/baffle I am building here is the following: One piece of 3/4" MDF sandwiched between two pieces of 3/4" genuine baltic birch. Then a ring of 3/4" birch is glued, screwed, & bondo'd to the bottom, & the sub will be screwed to the rings, & "hang" on either side like a cow's utters so they can "fire" up through the rear deck where the OEM 6x9's used to be housed. Well, this is what I have for right now, hopefully I have grabbed someone's attention enough that he/she got this far in the post. Leave a MSG! Follow me! Give me warm wishes. Criticism. Bitch me out! Just do NOT tell me that Ford's are better!!! *** EDITED IN 2014 BECAUSE PHOTOBUCKET SCREWED UP MY LINKS & FOR HEADER CHANGES ***
  15. well ok kinda my car now since i drive it more then she does to save on gas but, got sick of her crappy system and with tax time in full swing i ordered up a bunch of goodies. Car: 98 chevy cavalier rs coupe Deck:pioneer deh-p7200hd Front: Rockford Fosgate Punch P1462 4x6 2way Rear: Rockford Fosgate Punch P1692 6x9 2way Subs: Alpine type r 10s (the old style) X2 (my old subs and box had build log some where on here for the box and what not) Amps: 1 Rockford R1200-1d, 1 Rockford R400-4d Wire: Tsunami 0 and 4 ga, and rca's, and some kicker 16ga for rear and front, subs still have some darvex 10ga. To tune it all in: a DD-1 and a CC-1 I have deck, subs and box and sub wire, so far just placed the order for everything else so should be getting here within the next week. i will post pics up of the gear and install as soon as i can.
  16. MECA show Columbus hooked up with Dubndodge and Gunnem cool guys! Took home 6 awards. PHAT 10 PHAT Install PHAT Truck (Suv) Most Improved MOD Street 2nd S3- 2nd place.
  17. hello this is my building. Multimedia Station ALPINE IVE-W535BT (1) RF 3sixty.3 (1) RF T2500.1bdCP (2) RF T600-4 (1) RF T400-4 (2) RF T2D415 Subwoofers (4) RF PUNCH PRO PPS4-8 Midbass (6) RF T1652-S woofers (6) RF T1TS Tweeters (1) RF PEQX3 - Remote PEQ Controls (3) RF RFIT20 RCA signal cable (4) RF RFIT10 RCA signal cable (2) RF Y-ADAPTER signal cable (2) KINETIK KHC-2000 102Ah Battery (1) kINETIK KHC-1200 50 Ah Battery (1) VW TOUAREG 220A 14V Alternator 18 meters OS OFC 70mm2 cable 18 meters OS OFC 50mm2 cable ~90 meters 2x2,5mm2 OFC speaker cables - 22mm MDF
  18. New build starts around page 6. Vids are on page 12. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- old stuff Ok, so I've decided to bring the 87' Accord out of the dark ages with a cool new toy and build a new console while i'm at it By the way, an 87 accord has pretty much no damn room in it. (More pics at end of thread) I started by buying a Liliput 8" touchscreen TFT Display. Then i added an Intel Atom dual core 1.8ghz cpu and motherboard here is one for size comparison. I'll put up more pics as the build progresses.
  19. So this is all about my plan for this summer. It's gonna be a long time in the making, but I figured it would be fun to keep track of and get opinions and whatnot, so here goes. This is going to be first a car overhaul, everything from the frame to the engine to the electrical and exterior and interior. There s going to be mmore than one car involoved! Obviously I can't use this frame, but I can use a lot off of it..... I'm getting two moe cars to make one final "Frankenprobe if you will." Second is going to be the audio aspect, which for now shall just be a teaser. (Hint look at the tags) Also, I'm trying ot figure out this whole posting multiple pics and all, so this might be choppy before I can refine it. Some background info: I'm a competant mechanic, and I know my way around electronics. I repair amps for fun, and buy and sell constantly on cragislist and Ebay. So everything going into this car is probably secondhand, and probably repaired. College + Just lost job = I'm pooooooor! So bear with me! The car in my sig, yeah this is it about nine months ago thanks to someone without blinkers on their trailer. (I may also have been speeding a tad) And well anyhow, it's pretty messed up. Nearly rolled it... Frame is bent to snot.
  20. Well it seems as though there are very few pics of the inside of this particular amp, even on google search I couldn't seem to find it. So I thought I'd share mine, enjoy!
  21. Ok, so I built a ported box for my Trans Am. The box sits in the T-Top area and extends to behind the back seat. I ended up with 3.67 cubic feet of air space. This box houses 2 p2d4-12's. I have a 7" long 4" diameter pvc port. The box sounds great and thumps until you get to lower frequencies around 35hz. This is where i start to get a lot of port noise. Box calculators say the box is tuned to around 31-33hz. This is where it gets weird. On Rockford's website they have a box adviser for my sub. It states for a single sub, I should use an 11.8" long 4" diameter pvc port and that would tune the box to 40hz. I input their specs into the calculator I used and it said the port should be 8.9" wtf. I have no idea how this ported stuff works since this is my first ported box. My question is how big does the port need to be to eliminate my port noise? I've experimented with different lengths of ports and its still there. Do I need to go bigger in the diameter department or is it something else? Here a link to Rockford site for my subs.http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/support/boxadvisor.aspx
  22. My name is Mike and this is my Altima. I started dreaming up ideas right after I got it. It does have Bose and factory HU touchscreen will be retained. I'm doing this in stages and I work slooooowww. Here is the car. I like to use Sketchup to visualize and fit things before I start building. So, I created my car and some different sub ideas. This is a T-line I thought about. Another idea 12" ported. Another with 2 SA-8s. So I decided on the SA-8s after hearing and seeing so many great reviews. This would fit right into the opening to trunk with seats down.
  23. Here's my 1992 Camaro Z28. I've been building this for about 3 years now and here's how the car looks looks like today. I bought the car with only 62,000 miles on it, so it's very solid. Currently, my setup consists of the following: Alpine Head Unit Clarion EQS746 EQ Hertz HSK165XL's for front Hertz HSK165XL's for rear Fosgate T600-4 for Mids & Highs (2) Fi Audio Q12's Hi QTS Loaded Running Sealed Two Old School Fosgate Punch 200x2 wired to 2ohm Bridged Mechman 370A Alternator Single AGM Battery up front 19'' Wheels by AutoArt Hankook Tires New paint I'll be posting some pictures of the build that I've collected.
  24. So the last post got locked for the choice of words, I didn't intend the post to be a vs post, so I just have to reword the post. What would your favorite budget 15 Sub/Amp combo? (SPL would be nice with them as well)
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