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Most updated pics can be found at https://www.tumblr.com/blog/joshdashef | I use Tumblr as my picture hosting platform | Previously I had a RF Prime 750.1 going to two RF 12 4DVC on stock electrical and big three. New Build Equipment Active Setup from HU: Pioneer 80 PRS Front Stage T2652-S powered off a P600X4 (4 ohm | speaker per channel) Lows 2x P3 4DVC powered off a DC Audio 2k (1 ohm | Dual 1/0 inputs) Batteries Starter - Walmart Group 51R | Reserve - XS D3400 (Flat 6 bolt) Alternator Mechman 240 Blue Wiring RCAs - Rockford Fosgate 20ft | Sky High 1/0 Blue (2 runs) | Sky High 10 gauge (subs) | Front Stage Speaker Wire - undecided matching Sky High 14 gauge Fuse Holders / Gauges Blue Seas Analog Volt Meter | Stinger Volt meter (red) | Sky High dual anl fuse holder (two for main power and one for sub amp input) | SMD Fuse Blocks 3x dual 1x single Planned Upgrade List 3 pairs of RCAs Done New Wider False Floor Not needed New Sub Enclosure 2x12 or 1x15 DONE 2x12 Amp Rack for Dc 2k and four channel Done Distribution Block/Fuses (trunk) Done Dual Fuse Mount under hood Done Replaced with SMD dual fuse holders - Thanks audiofanaticz Running two runs of 1/0 Sky High OFC front to back Done Battery Mount for XS D3400 Done Mechman HO Alternator Done New Headliner New Rear Parcel Tray or Reinforce old? Fix Gas Lid Wire Done Stinger Volt Meter for front and rear batteries Done Treat doors for new mid woofers Outer skin treated, need to cover holes with thick metal sheet and rivets Run speaker wire for mids and highs Done Install train horn in rear bumper Setup LEDs above amp rack Done Install distribution block and run +/- 4 or 8 gauge for it. 4 gauge +/- Done Run speaker wire for subs Done temporarily (will be upgrading to posts like these or something similar so I can parallel at them instead of the sub) Sound Deaden areas; Doors (outer skin middle 1/3 done and focus directly behind speaker) Roof Wheel Wells Hood Trunk lid (lower 1/2 done) Trunk spare tire (1/4 done) Parcel Tray Head Unit: Pioneer 80 PRS Amp: Subs / Old Q-power Box: Under Hood: Day 1: Strippin 'er down Trunk Cabin | Rear/Front Seats Removed and some panels including center console (didn't get a pic of rear seats will do tomorrow)

*************[Note: Since photobucket decided to nerf everyone's accounts, a lot of the pictures in this thread are gone. I intend to fix all of the posts but it will take quite a while. Photos start on page 29 currently. In the meantime all of the photos are available on Facebook by searching #projectflexington and many are on Instagram under the same hashtag. Thanks for looking and please don't be afraid to comment! ]************* So figure it is time to start a build log for my 6th order wall. Been working on it for a few weeks now. I'll start by posting the equipment I'm using for the build. Electrical: Batteries: 2 nsb170fts and 2 stinger group 31s: 3 banks of super caps: 2 singer 320amp alternators (these came with the truck, I'm currently in the process of redoing the bracket to strengthen it and add a tensioner but I'll elaborate later): 4+ spools of skyhigh 1/0, knukonceptz 4/0 ofc for alternators (will post pictures later) Terminals, marine grade ring terminals lugs, properly crimped with double wall adhesive lined heat shrink: Subs are 2 sundown x15s rev 1(will be rebuilding for level 6 18s at a later date): Sub Amp, kicker warhorse: Head unit and tweeters, Sony dsx-s210x and 4x Earthquake Screamers, 1.5" 150wrms per pair silk Dome tweeters with replaceable voice coils: Mid bass, 4x dayton audio 10" pa woofers, 300rms each: Mids are tbd, probably 2 8" midrange speakers. Lots of Baltic birch: If you enjoy, please comment!

Hello my name is rich and i am currently building a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer my daily driver into a 10k daily driver. I have been doing car stereo since i was 15 and this is going to be the second most advanced system that i have ever put together. So need as much help and criticism as possible. Want to learn as much as i can and have a nice build. If you haven't read my other build log i started building a 97 hyundai Tiburon and after having my system up and going for a little over a month the trans blew. was loud as hell needed work but oh well. so had to find another daily driver and wasn't going to give up system so decided to go truck route (5 kids 4 girls, 1 boy) My goals for this car are upper 140s-150 dbs (if possible and musical) (not metered yet) to learn as much as possible (fiberglassing, body work, vinyl work) decent sq (don't want subs to over power everything) start with equipment that i have and slowly but eventually build to bigger and better equipment Build it better then my 03 mitsubishi lancer oz rally (that i miss like a child) alpine iva-d310, pxa-h701, 420i, audiocontol matrix plus, ps2 slim in glovebox, cf Vr804, 2 Vr1000d, excessive amperage 200 amp alt, 2 kinetic power 2400, 1 run tsunami 0, big 3 0 Tsunami, 2 sets of cf x6s one front one rear, 2 mtx 9500 12in d4s, tons of dynamat extreme, varad 1000 color leds in front foot wells, yellow leds in pocket under radio, yellow florescent lights in door pockets walker front bumper canary yellow Loud and Clean daily driver (final goal) (demos, car shows, and competitions) Here is the list of the equipment that i currently have HU: pioneer deh 80prs (network mode on active) RCAs: Streetwires, Connection Singer 340 six phase hairpin amp alternator XS Power D3400 under hood with Custom 1/2 Aluminum Bus Bars (made by me) 1/0 Gauge 3 runs SHCA OFC Big 4 double 1/0 OFC SHCA OFC Distrobution Blocks S.M.D., and directed audio 2 Stinger SVMR Voltmeter (Red) (one for front batt and one for rear Battery bank) Skar sk85.4 85x4 @ 4 ohms on 2 sb acoustics neo dome tweeters MMATS Sq4100 100x4 @ 4ohms on 4 silver flute 8s (4ohm) Subs: 6 12in AB xfl d2s soon to be 6 fully built ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4 Sub Amp: 2 DC 5ks with TM dual Inputs and TM quad speaker imputs 4 XS Power D3100s with custom 1/2 aluminum buss bars in rear (made by me) Here is a list of equipment that i want or need may change Cooling for amps in rear More interior speakers??? (maybe birch roof) Jy or limitless lithium 80ah Another singer 340 alt get better HU and eq/processor( and maybe a Tablet?)

So... The plans have changed a little bit, no wall but two 12's now The reason for making this new thread. Old thread https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/205731-my-first-audio-build/ The car Still a lot more to deaden! Btw i've used Silent Coat and STP ak04 premium So the new plan(setup) will be as following: HU: ?? don't know yet Subs: 2 Phoenix Gold Elite.12D4 Subs Amp: Rockford Fosgate Power T2500.1 Mids and Highs: Phoenix Gold Elite.65CS Components Mids and Highs Amp: Rockford Fosgate Power T400.2 Electrical: Ground Zero GZBP 12.3500X battery under the hood XS Power XE 12-110 battery in the back 180 Amp Alternator OFC 0 awg power/ground/big 3 OFC 4 awg power/ground OFC 8 awg subwoofer wire OFC 10 awg speaker wire Rockford Fosgate Fuses Rockford Fosgate Fuseholders 6x Rockford Fosgate RCA’s 10feet 2x Rockford Fosgate PEQ remote controller Some dual inputs Stinger voltmeter Some parts I'm now waiting on the 0awg and 10awg OFC wire to come thru the mail, then its all complete.. Box is finished just need to wrap it. Thanks to JOE X for the box design!! It's for 2 zv4 12's but i'm hoping it will work fine with the Elite.12's You'll be hearing from me soon, as soon as ive done some more work

Hey guys! Maybe it is a dumb question, but I'll ask it anyways. So I purchased an XS power D 975 last summer, and I am extremely happy with the performance it provides. However I still do not understand how would a 35AH battery with it's own 12.8-13.0 volts support a 1000/2000 watt system. What do you think about the accuracy and the reality of these ratings in the real world? (not just testing in the lab) I also do not understand how can I tell if the battery is low on charge. Like when I use it ( lets say for 25 minutes and cranking it) and stick a voltmeter to the probes right after that it shows for example 12.56 volts. The maual says you should get cahrging when the volts are below 12.6 and it is really stict so you should kepp it that way. So I set up my charger ant when I test it again a few minutes later it now showls like 12.73. How is that possible? And if the cells fill up eachother how can I tell when it is drained or not? Thanks for the answers!

Installed a couple weeks ago my cpillar slide in wall For 6 ab xfl 1222s on 2 dc 5ks. 3 top on 1 dc5k @1.3 ohms and 3 bottom on another dc5k @ 1.3 ohms. Have blown the bottom middle woofer now twice. First time thing I went to hard on it being that it took months to finish and killed the coil. 2nd one was rushing to get it playing for slammology. Broke it in for 3 hours @ 40 and 30 hz on a dc5k @ 4ohns 900 something watts Went to install it the next day screwed up poked surround like a idiot. Fixed it with shoe goo Played fine all weekend till my 4th demo at slammology then that infernal slinky sub sound. What am I doing wrong? 1. this is my first wall 2. First time running 6 subs 3. First time running this kind of power and running 2 dc5k to 1 enclosure 4. Set amps with dd-1 to older 5k cause seemed to be lower of the 2 amps. Set with -5 db track 5. Gain matched both amps to the older 5k with cc-1 6.slide in wall is top L port 7. Almost seems like bottom 3 subs move more then top ones ( but not 100 percent on this ) 5 broken in subs and one new one as soon as I buy another one from ab. Please help I am pulling my hair out trying to figure this out and can't afford to keep replacing subs. Now have 5 good and 3 bad subs.

So my builder, Aho Audio out of Oklahoma, put this together in 12hrs for me today. Huge thanks to him for sticking it out after made the long drive to him. Singer 275a D6500 under the hood 2 d3400 in the back Modified all stock spots to fit 4 Cresendo neo 6.5s and 2 ft1 tweeters. Ran out of time for the Alphard Audio tweeters so future add on down the road. 2 Crescendo 15s Sundown ns1 v1 amp 2 Sundown 50.4 for mids Box is tuned around 40hz maybe less, not sure since space was limited and had to get creative to put the box in. Kenwood HU Sky High Car Audio power wire Rockford and Soundqubed RCAs

Trying keep my install simple.i really dont want to upgrade alt.because of the pcm.was going to go with one or maybe two group 48agm batts.but thinking it might be to hard on alt to keep up..then i seen this sb500.was wondering if a single sb500 would be a better option.my system consist of one ampere 2k and two 150.4.no parking lot demos, just a daily.any input or thoughts?ive emailed xs waiting to gear back.but like opions thanks

Recently I noticed (while charging AGM XS batteries) that my PSC60 makes a chirping/buzzing sound when its in Float Charge mode (13.5V). It sounds kinda like what an amp sounds like when its clipping. I dont recall this noise in the past. Its sounds bad enough that I dont want to leave it on overnight in charge or recovery mode. Cant get a response from XS Power on the matter. Any input? Are your chargers rather quiet? I'll get a video tonight when I get into the garage.

Hi there guys after a few suggestions in regards to a new build, Been out the audio game for a couple of years now. (Im from the UK), My UK based forum I used to use seems to have turned from audio to magazine based sadly. My previous build was in a Citroen C2, Consisted of: Ascendant Audio havoc 12" tuned to 33hz, B2 Quota, Focal 165v30, Genesis profile 1 etc, Now my new car is a MK1 8n Audi TT 225. I originally had thoughts of going for 2x12" setup but I think im swayed towards 2x15's. After a bit of advice on this sort of setup: Standard alternator is pushing 120ah Subs: Sundown SA-15 x2, How do these run off of 750w. I know there sweet spots like 1k-1.2k, But I can't afford the jump to 2k watt amp/battery. Enclosure: Not sure on 15's only ever built 12's, But at a guess Im thinking 7 cu/ft? Ill post in the enclosure page on help regarding this. Tuning wise, had in mind 28hz but maybe around the 31/32? Opinions? Amplifier: Sundown SAE-1500D, Any alternatives if this isn't reccomended? Battery: Bit of a newbie area to me. Ideally I'd like a big primary battery that can handle the 1500w. Question is do I buy a 12v? Or 14v? I saw the XS Power XE14-50 Which seems to be able to handle 1500w. Any other suggestions would be great. Sound deadening: Silentcoat Multilayer, Had great success with this in my previous car so I'll probably jump on that again. HU, Front Comps, Comp Amp undecided yet as I want to work around the sub setup first. Design wise, I did a quick sketchup of an idea I have. Inside of the TT looks like this:. I was thinking a sealed forward facing semi wall I guess sort of setup:. Bare In mind nothing in the sketchup drawings are to scale it's just to see my idea. By semi wall, It won't be permanent. I'll be sealing off the the edges of the "wall" with high pressure ducting foam. Will be secured to the car floor in regards to L brackets or however else I decide to do so. Bare in mind im from the UK guys, Not many suppliers out here of some of the american brands, (1 Authorised sundown dealer in the whole of uk...). Any helps appreciated Jay

The purpose of this thread is to evaluate and discuss the internal resistance of various batteries and (possibly?) test methods. I’ll start this off by using the DC Load method to test some XS AGM, some K2 73Ah cells, and some K2/JYP 80Ah cells. The DC load method was used because that’s all the equipment that I had available or was able to purchase quickly and on the cheap. Here’s a link for more information on Load Test Methods. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_measure_internal_resistance Calculation used was Rint = ((Vrest/Vload) -1) x Rload) Where Rint = internal resistance Vrest = Voltage at rest Vload = Voltage once load is applied Rload = resistance of the load resistor Now onto some pictures of the setup. If there is something amiss please chime in so we can figure it out. 1ohm load resistors (although they test out at 0.9ohm) I connected them in series on one end, and I can change the resistance by simply connecting my jumper wire differently. I have the opportunity to connect at 0.45ohm, 0.9ohm, and 1.8ohm. Here's proof of half(ish) ohm, although I didnt use this low of a resistance for data collection: So this connection would be 1.8ohm This connection would be 0.9ohm Here's the 73Ah K2 cells (not JY collaboration batteries) The day before testing, I topped off all the batteries, including the JYP's in the back and the AGMs to the right. 24 hours later, I actually took measurements. Data for the lithiums: Data for the D3400R AGM Looking forward to some comments, suggestions, etc. Thanks for looking!

I want to thank you for taking the time to look at my thread. I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and I've been saving and working for this for 4+ months. Here so I go. Mids & Highs: x2 NVX Audio X-Series 6.5s 2 way component speaker sets. To Connect to.. Soundqubed Q4-90 Low: x2 Soundqubed HDC3 10 To Connect to.. Soundqubed Q1-2200.2 HO Alt: Js Ultimate Alts 240a Cable: x2 Skyhigh 0 Gage OFC kits. Skyhigh 8 gage & 16 gage OFC speaker cable HU: Pioneer DEH-80PRS Battery: XS Power D6500 Sound Deadener: 121 sq feet of Skyhigh 120mil I have three boxed of this stuff but installed some:

I'm starting a new build now, some of the old parts will be reused but I'm going for a cleaner, better sounding, smaller setup this time. The old setup was just killer on the suspension of the car and it had to go. New equipment: Kenwood DDX371 DC Audio 90.4 DC Audio 1.2k Crescendo RTS-1 tweeters Silver Flute 6.5's Fi SSD 12 knukonceptz 1/0 OFC Sky High Car Audio RCA, speaker wire, ring terminals, primary wire XS power D5100R Northstar NSB-AGM24M DC Power 180amp HP series alternator Audio Technix 60mil deadener I need to cover these sections up, I'm going to try and buy the side carpet from honda if it's not crazy expensive. Update 12/22/15 Everything is here now, I will start working on the box here soon. Box has been built, 2.3cu, 33hz tune.

Well guys finally starting my build i got the subs in and the wood just trying to figure out how to do this box i will have pics on the design tonight i am just having trouble with the port. XS power D3400 Coming in the mail soon and not sure on what amp yet ether crescendo or DC I am Thinking 3000 or 2000 RMS not sure yet. Here is the truck and please put your input in i want this thing to be the best it can be.Equipment List2001 GMC sierraDropped on 20sPioneer 1400 DVDFPioneer 4x6MB Quart Component setRockford Fosgate R300-4Audio Technix Zero GaugeXS D3400-Mechman 270 AltDC Power Level 4 10s M2SMD DD-1 ChristmasDC 3.5k SOONMore to come

Has anyone ever tried to install a DC to AC inverter into there build and use the produced AC power to supply an AGM or Lithium battery charger? Would the battery charger be able produce more of a charge to the system than the inverter would draw from the system resulting in a positive charge to the system over time?

A week ago I upgraded my old Kinetik battery to an XS Power AGM D925 in hopes to help my headlight dimming. It helps but not completely and the dimming comes back hard after about 10 minutes playtime. Voltage drops from 14.1 to 12/13 volts within 15 minutes max if playing it constantly. I'm running one Sundown SA12 by an oldschool KOLE Audio HK620-2 amplifier in bridge mode 620 Watts I think. Low power for this sub I know but it sounds fantastic and flexes everything. Cannot find much info on my KOLE amp and I know its not class D. If I got a newer "Class D" amp would it lessen my headlight dimming? Also, did the big 3 upgrade with 1/0 gauge wire, and 2 gauge wire going from under hood to trunk XS battery and amp. Have a brand new Bosch battery under the hood as well, and XS battery is connected using a stinger relay/isolator so they're not connected when car is off. Stock 110Amp alternator. Upgrading alternator not an option. Every single thing in my car is grounded properly. After fully charging XS D925 battery externally and installing it still dims after 5-10 minutes and sometimes immediately depending on the song I'm playing. I'm starting to think my KOLE amp is causing these dimming issues somehow. What do you think?

Hey guys. I have a slight problem figuring out how many or how big or both, of alternators do i need to push 9000 watts. The system I am building is a little under 8000 watts. Im trying to run my amps at the highest efficiency possible. I have decided to run at least 2 D2700 xs power batteries. But, I am not sure what size or how many alts I need to efficiently charge the batts. ANy help would be greatly appreciated.

Alright so this is my first topic started on SMD so bear with me. I've been watching builds on here for the past couple years as a bystander, meanwhile doing alot of my own and I thought it was time to get in on the benefits of showing what you got and get input from other Car Audio Fanatics! This build is my personal truck that Ive had for about 4 years. 2003 GMC Sierra crew cab 2500HD with a vortech 8.1L. As for audio upgrades Ive been through many different set up's gradually building up to this, but this set up is so I can figure out where I can go bigger as far as subs and amps. Here is what we have so far for audio 2003 GMC Sierra w/ 8.1L Alpine INE-S920HD 3 sets of Rockford T2 6.5's 2 sets of Rockford T2 5.25's 1 Rockford 360.3 2 Boston acoustics spg555 subs in 5cu.ft ported box tuned to 36Hz 1 ea. Rockford t2500.1Bdcp,t600.4, and a t400.4 2 Xs power d3400's, and 2 Xs power d2700's LOT's of RF 1/0 power and ground recently added some SHCA 1/0 as well! DC Power 300amp alt 1 SMD VM-1 Rebuild/ truck change...2004 GMC Sierra w/ Duramax!! pg 19. Other upgrades 2 DC 5k's 4 DC XL 10's 2 DCPower 300spx alt's 2 XS D3400's and 3 D2700's All SHCA 1/0 wire and 16awg speaker wire 4 RF T2 6.5 comp sets 2 RF T2 5.25 comp sets 1 RF t1000.4AD 1 RF t600.4 RF 360.3 processor LOT's of SMD Meter's plenty of custom fabrication ] These are some 4" off road HID's I bought and fit to my factory bumper. Lighting is terrible where I live so having limo tint makes night visibility very bad, so I threw these in so they automaticaly come on in reverse but they are also on a relay to a flip switch so I can turn them on when I want. So tailgaters beware these are freaking bright!! They can light up a few blocks to say the least, I flipped them on when a buddie of mine was following and he had to come to a complete stop because they blinded him so bad. He was pretty pissed off ! Ill post some better pics when the truck is done so you can see how good they light up ]/URL]

Finally getting a build log going, I had 3 goals in mind when I started this build: 1) 150+ db outlaw 2) 145+ db at 20hz or below (outlaw) 3) 150dB at the windshield legal I have a termlab and hope to share my results along the way. I've been working on this build for 5-6 months now and have done alot of testing with the TL. Sub Bass is my main focus right now because I want to compete with this vehicle. I do plan on upgrading the stock mids and highs at some point but for now I'm putting my time and money into SPL. I'm starting with JL simply because thats what I had in my old F150 and I want to see what they can do from a trunk. 150 db seems a bit unrealistic from "SQ" subs but I will see how loud I can get them and if I hit a plateau before 150 I will get subs more suited for SPL. Here's some pics of my new ride. Not the biggest trunk but it will do.

Hi I may sound stupid for asking but im fairly new to car audio and have a little system consisting of 2 Alpine type R's 12d2 subs 4 Alpine type R component speakers Lanzar OPTIDRIVE 2600 mono amp at 0.5 ohm which puts out 2600 at .5 4 cubic foot ported enclosure tuned at 36 hz i have my subs wired to .5 and the subs are rated at 1k each whilst im using a 2600 amp I am wanting to know what the gain is for im aware that its to match the output of the headunit with the amp but wanted to know if the gain determines how much power the amp recieves, at half gain will my amp get 1300 rms ? or will my amp still put out 2600 but just need the deck volume to be turned up more than if the gain was at 3/4 Hope some one cant help

Sup Guyz, Names Rob from Hawaii, new here figured I would start a build log of my 2005 Mazda 3i. I have a long way to go but I am pretty happy with the way my system sounds right now. I don't compete the scene isn't that big where I live and I did the entire build on my own. Its nothing special compiled with things I have acquired over the years. My system right now it consists of - Head Unit - Pioneer DEH-X6500BT EQ - Clarion EQS746 Steering Wheel Interface - PAC SWI-PS Front Sound Stage - West Coast Customs/Diamond D6 X-Over running Polk DB Tweeters and WCC/D6 6x8 Mids Rear Fill - Pioneer TS-A6880R Sub stage- 2 DD1512a in 3.15cu box tuned to 38hz (This is actually a replica of the specs of the Attrend approved enclosure on DD's website ) Amps- Front & Rears on Alpine PDXF4 Subs Rockford Fosgate P1000X1D

Hello all! I'm new here to the forums and I thought I'd start by posting a build thread for first build. I've been looking into audio for a very long time, but recently started looking specifically into car audio about four years ago. I built my very first box a year ago (April, 2016) after ordering my subs. Since then, I worked and saved up for my amp, batteries, and wire (other miscellaneous stuff as well) which I recently purchased this winter. I got everything in the mail a few months ago and only recently installed everything. It's been a very long work in progress (I replaced my door speakers and fabricated my A-pillars three years ago and have been saving up since then) and will continue to be improved, but I'm happy to finally share it with you all! Here are some pictures in chronological order of everything as it has come together (sorry for the poor iPhone quality): April of 2015 (As you can see, this was my very first box build. It's not very pretty and there was lots of sanding to do to make all the edges meet flush) The subs A couple of months later (February 2016) and I stripped the vehicle down to the bare interior so that I could run the wire and RCA's through the car (for my daily, I didn't want to run the wire underneath the vehicle. Looking back on how tough it was to run three runs of 1/0 AWG through the firewall, if I did it again I'd do it differently!) Interior reinstalled Under the hood Progress Heatshrunk! Batteries, bussbars, box, subs, and most of the power wire installed The (temporary) wiring setup About a year of work, and that's where I'm at! I've done a little more work to tidy things up, but for the most part, I've got everything done and ready for the amplifier to be dropped-in when it arrives. Speaking of... I ordered my BC5500 in December, but shortly after they went out of stock and you know how Crescendo restocks go... Four months later, and here I am anxiously waiting for my amp to restock and show up in the mail. In the meantime, I'm working on rebuilding my box and the floor underneath it. I'm currently very unhappy with the way the Herculiner turned out. It was my first time using the product so my lack of experience made it clump and lay unevenly over the entire box. Additionally, the box itself was my first, unexperienced build, and I've learned a lot about boxes and building them since them. The box has a 32hz tuning and I'd like to drop it lower to 30/28, so I'm going to be doing interchangeable ports (I realize that I will be changing the 3.5 cubic airspace by adjusting the port volume, but the subs will not be in a space that is any less than their minimum recommended with the largest port). I'll also be replacing the OEM trunk floor (about a 1/4" thick) with 1/2" MDF. It'll be much stronger and hold up to the flex and weight a lot better. I'm also unhappy with the battery tray and amp rack that I made (very temporary 1/4" angle iron rectangle mounted to the floor and 1/4" wood as the amp rack) so I'll be replacing those in a much more permanent fashion (I've got a few ideas in mind). In the meantime, let me know what you guys think!

ordered 2 more xs d3100s from Showtime car audio going 2 have 2 batteries on each side of my port just wondering on how to properly ground the second set of batteries. My current setup Option 1 option 2 Do I ground all batteries on same frame rail or one set on each side being that this would give shorter ground path. Don't want to induce noise etc. ty for all your help

Hello Everyone, Introduction first: My name is Kaleb Carter, I am a 19 year old College Student at University of North Florida. I work full time for Florida Blue as well as being a full time Mechanical Engineering Student. I live in the dorms so I only get to work on my build on the weekends in my dad's garage when I'm not too bogged down with work. I drive a 2002 Ford F-150 Supercrew that I had been saving up for since I was about 8 working for my dad cutting grass, cleaning houses, being a farmhand,doing landscaping, etc. It was paid off the day I had the keys in my hand. Also, I pay for my equipment 100 % though dad helps me out with materials. On to my dad, him and I are the only people that touch my truck. I've been a basshead since I was little because of him. He used to be a professional installer (before I came along) so I was bumping in the womb in his show car. He helps me out a lot with installs and I try to learn as much as I can so that someday maybe I can know more than him some day. (I don't think it'll happen) Anyways, enough with that, let's get y'all some pictures! Truck 2002 Ford F-150 Supercrew Equipment: XS Power D3400 SkyHigh 1/0 & 4 Gauge Wire and Fusing Big 3 AQ 2200d AQ 200.2 2 Soundqubed HDS315's in a Ram-Designs 4th 6 Soundqubed Pro Audio 6.5's 2 Soundqubed Pro Audio Tweets 40 Sq ft of Soundqubed Q-Mat

build is as follows. 3 1200.4 from PURE Audio 1 fsd 2600 5 c/d 490MR 1 d3400 2 15 dc lvl 4 with xl parts 4 6.5 midbass from PURE Audio 6 2.5" supers from PURE Audio 8 1" tweets from PURE Audio 100+ ft 1/0 OFC 100+ft 8 ga OFC Singer 270 h/o alt Soon to come: 1 cockbox 20 ft 18 ft 6 ft and 6 3ft runs of shca triple shiled rcas rear suspension upgrade a pillar fab finish door fab full length batt to batt bank runs