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So I've been looking around and I've been noticing that wire kits are rated to a certain wattage spec. I am brand new to the big systems as the biggest system I've built and owned was less than 2500 watts. Im looking at doing 10000 watts in subs and around 5000 watts in the other speakers. Is 1/0 gauge going to be sufficient enough even though its only rated at 4000 watts? Or do I end up tripling up on my wiring or what am i going to need to do?

I am not the one to right a review. But since I purchased a 320 Amp Alternator for the Jeep Commander here are the lows and highs of it on system. Low idle charging on meters-14.3 volts High dle charging on meter-14.9 volts. These are a beast and has taken care of the charger being put on everyday. Buy Mechman!!!!!!!!

Today I looked under the hood of my car because I noticed it was leaking antifreeze. While I was under there I had also noticed that my battery was looking like sh*t and the wires for power and ground haven't been replaced since 2010 when a system was first put in the car. Anyways, when I put my model and year car into XS Powers website, it gave me the D5100R. My question is what does the reverse polarity part do? I just don't know if its something that matters when it comes to putting it in my car and being done with it, like would I have to do something different? It would be a while before I even get a new battery considering mine still works and I have other things that should come first, but I like to shop around in advance to give myself a while to think about it Car is an '01 Honda CR-V Right now its got 8 gauge wire for ground and power to battery from alt and to amps from battery. I don't need more than that yet. I would appreciate and opinion or answer.

What's up everyone! So you guys are probably used to me posting stuff on Team Sundown Russia with everything being pretty much 100% Sundown gear with a few Skars or Obsidian thrown in to the mix. This time we went a little out of our way to pick up some awesome Fi BTL n2 12's (Thanks Scott! thanks Am!!) here we are unboxing, busting balls over how stiff the spider pack is and generally bullshitting in Russian We plugged them into our in-shop Audi A4 sedan, which has lately become our test mule for just about anything we can get our hands on. It's not sealed off, subs forward, 6" port firing to the side....it's usually used for door open demos at meets and what not, so we set it up to meter that way..it generally peaks 29-30Hz and is within a db from 28 to 38hz, dropping less than 2 at 25hz. Does great on all types of music, moves quite a bit of air and is generally a surpise to most folks..... anyhow, enough rambling. Fi BTL n2's in the box we usually have a Sundown SAZ3500D in there wired to 0.5 (BTLs are also d2's), but since they were obviouslu begging for moar powa we let 'em have it and uleashed a brand new Sundown Audio NS-1 amp on them ( we have clamped upto 9k from one on a big 12v battery bank, but here we are likely pushing closer to 6k considering how it drops to mid 11's) ...still, plenty power for sure Electrical can use an upgrade from the stock alt....should be able to fit a Mechman unit on there soon. all the batteries are XS Power - 2 d5100's, a d6500 and the top secret D2250 (120+ Ah)....almost 300Ah worth of bats and a mixture of Shok Industries comp 0awg and XS Power cable so far we have 151.1 on a tone and 150.9 playing Gucci Mane's mi casa su casa and some random footage Subs are taking the power great, no problems at all. we're gonna see if we can clamp some power figures tomorrow and see what the box rise is. Maybe tweak a few things to up the score some

First off I would like to say XS Power is my go to battery and will be used in my next build as my prior! One thing that I would like to suggest/ hope for in the near future, is a XS Power D3400r. I have a car with reverse polarity, as others, and this is the biggest starting battery that fits under my hood. It would be nice to have the reverse polarity option like the D5100, so that we (whom ever have reverse polarity) don't have to run an ugly/ out of place jumper wire across the battery. I know I may be "nobody" as far as the audio world concerns, but I'm sure there are plenty of others who have thought the same thing. I just figured I would throw my suggestion/ hope out there for a future option for others in the same position as me.

I merged 2 threads and things got a little screwed up lol So I added Johns first post to his right here : This is the official thread for the Tahoe build off we hope you enjoy these builds as much as we do! So we are doing a little friendly competition between Sky High and DC Audio. A few things fell into place and we ended up having GM SUVS dropped off at the same time so we decided to make some fun out of it. Rusty, his team, and DC Audios build will consist of the DC Audio Yukon 4 M1 LVL 6 18s with the aluminum baskets. 4 DC Audio 5Ks and a B pillar wall; just to name a few things. The Sky High's Tahoe will have 6 Lvl 6 m2 18s with aluminum cone and 4 DC 10ks in a B pillar wall. Rusty and I (Jon) will be both posting pics along the road to crushing every other Tahoe on the west coast. DC Audio and Sky High have a pretty good and close knit relationship if you guys did not know. This is a friendly build and we are only out to have fun and get some recognition out there for the amazing products going into the builds. So please enjoy the builds and your input is greatly appreciated. See you at Lake County Car Audio with both these builds for the finale!! And Mine starts here - So Alot of you might remember the DC Yukon, Well its at the shop and were going to wall it. Not 100% sure what the plan is but for right now I just removed everything so i can start to measure out the shell. its got for gear (well before I took it all out) (2) 175.4 (4) 5.0 (4) M1 Lv6's (2) Alts (2) Strong Stinger 2150's, The rest of the 2150s are dead and will need to be replaced. The Yukon sat for a while and the battery's are now toast So Im not sure if it will go flat wall, clam shell, 4th order, 6th order. Part of it will depend on the square footage we end up with. On with pics of my progress today

hello everyone. thought i would show my team mates extreme van now that it is close to being finished(maybe lol). the van has had 4 setups in it this year alone. did MECA finals last year with 6 DD9512s in a 4th order...was trying to be the first to break a 60 in mod4...did it in testing just never in the lane best it got was 159.4. lost a couple subs there and 2 weeks later had the first MECA show of 2012 it was changed. loss 3 subs but added 4 6in aero port to change into a 6th order and did a 60 out the gate in X2. then it got changed again to compete in SS 3-4 with 4 DC team Lv5 18s...best score with that setup was at a Db Drag show did a 162.4. now on to the 4th build. their goal this year was to break Steve Cooks record on automotive glass iirc is 170.3. the 3-4 setup at the shop did a 164.8 on half power...not close enough to add all the amps so that was tore out to go even bigger. current setup is 8 DC Lv5 15s on all 16 DC 5ks i will get on with the older pics now poor 9512 reconed in 15 minutes tops SS 3-4 6th order sorry there isnt more pics changed phones and camera during this time so quite a bit is missing. but this brings us up to last night. getting ready for MECA finals this weekend. Db Drag had to be put on hold with the change ups and curt having a baby girl be born, him and greg decided to just finish out MECA this year. so its crunch time lol 8 Lv5 15s 11 of the 16 amp in new "headliner" lol 3/8 steel plate new stripper pole 1.5in all thread top and bottom brackets dinner 36in legend himself stopped by to lend a hand Eric Alexander...thanks to him i didnt have to call off work today curt wiring up number 15 greg getting started on 16 lances awesome tape job last amp going in battery bank after resting the night my phone died...well it wont take pics below 5% so i didnt get any with the stripper pole installed. it is only held in by the compression of the plate(no bolts or welding)...its not going any where lol figured i would post this up for everyone especially for DC Audio and XS Power.

Good afternoon, Folks ... I am sure this is oft-asked, ... but with these AGM batteries, XS' D975 offering in particular, when mounting in trunk, or any enclosed space for that matter, are vapors, fumes, etc., to be worried about? Or should I scheme up some sort of vent system of either a fan or filter, or both, ... or are AGM's different from Flooded BATTs in this regard, & obviously many others? (I would not be asking this if I have not read somewhere - maybe when I first purchased my D3400, that it was OK to mount these in many wacky positions ... just NOT upside-down ... & that AGM's nearly give off no toxic-ness. ... & if so, which way does any of the "offending" gasses escape? Up? Heavier than air so they lay low? As per my install, I am mounting said BATT terminal side up ... as I, & most would, describe as 'normal' orientation. Ready to mount BATT right now, but need to know if I should be fabbin' something first. Thank you ...

more pics soon.

Hi guys, aint posted here in a couple of years back when I first got into car audio, I have since gone through a couple of different build set ups. My current one is the loudest to date this is how it shaped up: