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Found 40 results

  1. I am going to build a fiberglass wakeboard tower enclosure for a friend. He wants 4 x 6"s and one 8 " Sub, all marine application components, no problems there. I will be seperating the 8" enclosure from the rest of the others. The sub will be in the middle, and two 6"s on each side. The glassing, filling, sanding, painting is not the question. My question is should the box be ported or sealed? I have built several enclosures, but all inside a vehicle. This will be wide open, hanging from a wakeboard tower and I want to get the most response from the sub as possible' will there even be a distinct difference? What are your suggestions, follow up questions? Thanks in advance!
  2. i am only 16 dont have a car or license yet but i want my system to be ready when i do! i am installing a fan onto my boss 4 channel amp the thing is a joke but i have never fiberglassed before so i wanted to try it im saving for a nicer 4 channel but oh well its better than running it off my head unit but here it is my first time ever fiberglassing [/img] layed out where to cut [/img] cut the hole [/img] fiberglassed did a ok job.. [/img] sanded and bondo [/img] primered it [/img] amp guts its so cute lol still have to do a few more primer coats and paint it but thats it so far:)
  3. Hey guys, noobie here. I need some help on this project I want to do. I want to have a oil pressure gauge, water temp gauge, and a manifold vacuum gauge. My plan is to have 3 gauge pods on top of a single din spacer and Plexiglass, fabricated in the bezel.The single din spacer is where i can place and have my wires organized, and the Plexiglass is where I will be mounting the gauge pods on top of. Here are some pics of the bezel. Single din spacer taped to it. Here i have the gauge pods temporarily set on the single din spacer but its where the plexiglass will be. they are autometer angeled gauge rings #2234 that I bought. I was going to epoxy the single din spacer and plexiglass to the bezel, and epoxy the angled gauge pods to the Plexiglass, then cutting a hole in the plexiglass so the gauges can go in, but didnt know what to do about the empty gaps. Sorry for not uploading a pic of the plexiglass on top of the single din spacer, didnt have it cut out yet. My question is, how do I make the gauge pods one piece with the bezel? Is there some sort of filler to fill in those gaps and make it one piece? And if so what type of filler should I use? And what steps should I take If you guys have any suggestions or advice please tell me. Thanks.
  4. so i totalled my dodge ram and decided that i want a dually. i call her shakira this is my progress so far, i want to make this truck a bit over the top but still have time to work on my 95 step side i will post more progress tomorrow, also have 2 kicker solo baric l7 15's going in it.
  5. 5 crossfire xsm8 loudspeakers in each door. power comes from a taramp 3000 HD. had them in for a month or so now. no problems. still deciding on when to put the shag carpet on. glassed both sides. made a mess as usual. strong though.
  6. If I fiberglass resin the inside of my box for 2 Sdc 2.5 15s, will it sound cleaner? Louder? I have no idea what the advantages are
  7. Hey guys, often times in fiberglass installs you will have multiple speaker rings that require being mounted at the exact same angle in order to maintain perfect symmetry. You do not want to spend hours on a piece that in the end has angles that are not the same. How can you insure that your speaker angles are perfect without measuring a million different angle and points? Here is my quick tip of the week to show you how:
  8. Sup guys.. Well after a couple systems I actually feel like this one is "thread worthy" I finally have most of it, and should be playing before June 29th, for the Usaci show in Houston at House Of Sounds And before I go any further, I want to thank Kim at Sound Solutions in Houston, TX for the box, and my fiberglassed door panels, and the super hook up on the prices. They do some great work, and for someone who doesn't have the skills of doing it they are the right place to get anything done! Car Details 2003 Jeep Grand Cherroke Leardo 88k Miles 22" 2Crave No. 11 wrapped in 265/30/22 Spec D halo projector headlights w/ 55w Canbus 5k headlights now for what everyone really wants to know System Details (2) Sundown X 15's Crescendo 3500 @.5 Crescendo 1100.4 (2) sets Mezzo 6.5 fiberglassed in front doors Singer "270a" Hairpin alternator w/ powered coating XS Power VCM XS Power D6500 (2) XS Power D3100 CT Sounds OFC 0/1 (2runs front to back) CT Sounds 80Mil SHCA Lugs & Heatshrink Aluminum Battery Blocks (6 & 4 inputs) Plexi window Picked this up local, bnib Picked up 2 1100.4, only using one though thanks to Scooter! Mezzo 6.5 Some SHCA goodies CT 80mil on doors, roof, back hatch From mike before I got the alt
  9. Hey everyone. I'm new to the forums. I have experience with car audio for about 20 years as a hobby. Been lurking mostly on here but I want to get some ideas in place for a new build for my truck. I currently have a 10" kicker solo classic sealed in an underseat custom enclosure with about .67 cu ft before displacement. I'm running it off a kicker zx400.1 at 2 ohms. I listen mainly to rock/classic rock/metal 95% of the time. Rap and R/B is the other 5%. So quickness and punch is very important to me for my listening preference. My goal is to get the low punch that you get when you go to a concert and listen to those 18"s hit you in the gut. Super deep is not that necessary, but deeper and punchier than what I currently get, which sucks ass. What I'm planning on doing is to have my friend help me build a custom fiberglass enclosure and getting a different sub. I've narrowed it down to the RE Audio SCX10 or the Sundown e10 v3 d4. I've ran some comparisons on WINISD and the results are a little different, but pretty close with the parameters I'm using. The Re has a better TFM while the Sundown is a little better on SPL from about 57 hz up. I have no idea what the TFM is, but hopefully one of you can help out on that. So that would make my decision a little easier on which sub to get. Now with the fiberglass enclosure, I know making it ported is going to be near to impossible. If it is possible, I'd like to hear ideas on how to do it. So my other option would be to get a 12" earthquake SLAPS PR. Now for a few questions about all this. (Sorry for the story, but want to give as much info as possible) Ported, PR, or sealed? Based on the WINISD I came up with, which would be better for my musical preference? Understanding the terms in WINISD would be a pleasure. A little help? My budget is going to be around $300-$350 for materials. I don't want to upgrade the amp yet. It's working fine. I'm looking more for sound quality than boom. (Rock music?? ) I also want to keep the enclosure under the seat. I have a big family and space is a premium. Thanks for any help.
  10. Im currently making a center console with a wooden frame and some fiberglass work on it. Im bridging gaps as wide as 3-4 in. How many layers of fiberglass mat and resin should i apply to these areas to insure good strength and make sure it will hold its shape and stay rigid??? Thanks guys!!
  11. Gentlemen, (and ladies?) I have not posted anything in this section before, but would just like to share one of my series of videos that I have been making. In this particular video, I talk a little bit about stretching fleece, glassing it, and adding strength. Some of my other videos describe making templates, and other fiberglass steps. Check it out and let me know what you think. Here is a nice picture of what I am working on in the vid: Disclaimer: My editing skills get progressively better, video 3 is where I really turn it up a notch using the GoPro camera for filming some of the steps with my hands!
  12. Its me again the super noob had a question: I finally got my new car( well new to me) I wanna start my first build and i wanna be adventurous. I have purchase 3 sets of sound qubed pro audio mids and super tweeter which i will put in the doors( or maybe 2 sets in the door and 1 set in the kick panels). is i plan to fiberglass the doors lucky for me i have a junk car that is the same exact car. the issue is these door panels have a pocket you ca actually open up. what would be the best way fiberglass the doors for door pods cut into the plastic? remove the pocket and build the pods? here are a few pics to give you an idea: thanks in advance any input would be highly appreciated
  13. Finally started a new project im my "new" car! 1998 Omega B My plan is to keep building a bit over the winter and spring to get ready for next years car and car audio meets/competitions. This Isn't an spl oriented build as I want it to play low and awesome with a clear front stage, but I'll still do my best with what I end up getting. I'll be participating at least What I get as far as equippment will be revealed as I get it. I have a plan, but I might change my mind so I won't say anything just yet! What I am clear on so far is that I'm rebuilding my front doors, and that's where I'll start this project. The doors will house two 6.5"s each and I'll have a pair of tweets in either the a-pillars or in stock location if it'll fit. To begin with I'll see if my Tang Band speakers might work in a car, so you'll se those in the pics. So lets get to building This is what I have to work with Behind the panel and plastic Teardown ¨ Theese are the different parts the doors consists of, partly screwed and glued The glue was sto strong so I couldn't just pull the old fabric off On the bright side the resin etc. should get a good grip on this, might drill a few holes as well Theese are the parts I'll be altering, the rest will be left stock After I have my plan of attack, I'll get to making some speaker "rings" Made a little sketchup drawing to figure out my dimentions I spent som time making the first piece When it's done I'll use it as a template to make the others. This is much easier with the right tools so I made my own little thrown together router table Then I made the ruff cuts Put on some double sided tape Then let the flush trim bit do it's job Theese will be the outer rings. I used a rabbeting bit to get my desired inner diameter This is how they ended up with a little 45 for good looks 45'd the rear of the speaker holes Done, just need to be glued together Checking fitment The depth is alowing me to add some sort of speaker grille Just enough clearance for vinyl http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i326/Sondre_Tveit/Stereo/20140905_155205_zpsepgts3sx.jpg That's all I have for now! There will be updates as I make progress
  14. Hey all, Ever wondered, what weight chop mat should I use? What resin do I need? How much hardener (MEKP) do I need to add to the resin? What is it is hot? What if it is cold? Whats the best way to use fiberglass and add strength to something? Wonder no longer my friends... As i gear up for my door pod build I have been amassing some more fiberglass fabrication products. These products are typical of what you would see in any car audio install that involves fiberglass show I wanted to share them with you, along with an explanation of each and some answers to questions I see repeatedly online! Enjoy! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB4fikvfX74
  15. Does fiberglassing the inside or outside of a subwoofer enclosure have any benefits?
  16. Hey everyone. Im known as Jay Kamakaze I started JM Exclusive tricking out cars and my lab rat of a 97 Celica ST has taken so much beating from me with tons of installs ive done to learn fabrication and custom installs. Ive installed, removed, installed, removed. Ive even posted previous installs on this site. Now Ive reached as place where Im comfortable with my fabrication and my skills to do one complete build. The car is near finished already but i chose to start my build log of everything i did and how i got there. This log includes sooo much custom (even down to the wiring), I guarantee this is a one of a kind Celica. Some highlights I will get to: -Dual CarPCs -RFID Keyless Ignition (my own design, don't bother asking for diagram) -Modded XBOX360 -PC Controlled Lighting -Touchscreen Speedo -Centerconsole Build -Dashboard Build -Trunk build
  17. Hey guys, I need some help... I have a 2002 chevy 1500 ext cab and Im trying to build a high-end system in it. Im only 16, so its a big project for me... I got my truck last august for my birthday, and my parents bought me a HU, and some door speakers on a little amp. It was great, but I knew I wanted at least a single 12 in there. I went with 2 12's in a under-the-seat box. 2 alpine r 12's on 2 rockville rxd-m4's in a ground shaker box. It was cool, but I just kept wanting to upgrade, so I sold one of the amps, and put a sundown 1500D on both the subs at 0.5ohm. It rocked, and still does 2 months later. I want more... the 6.5's and the 4x6's dont keep up with the subs, and im upgrading the subs anyways, both my dad and uncle want sound systems in their cars, and im selling them each one of the 12's. Im deciding to go with 2 sundown x15's on 2 sundown 1500D's. Big money, i know...... Audio kinda sucks..... I have a box designed in sketchup for the subs. I realized that even with the 4 speakers ive got now, they dont really keep up as well as I want them too with the 12's, so I know they wont keep up with 2 15's on 2 times the power. I am keeping the door speakers ive got now, but im adding 4 crescendo pwx 6.5's, i found some kick panel replacements for my truck at an audio store that was closing near my house and got them for $30, what a steal, theyre like $200 everywhere online. So I want to move the alpine 6.5's into the kicks and put 2 PWX 6.5's in each door... Is this possible without too much modding? The little pods in the doors now house a 6.5 and a 1.5" (i think) tweet. Id LOVE if I could fit the 2 6.5's in that little pod without messing anything up or having to mod too much. Any suggestions or help is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys, Trey
  18. Sam is a guy who keeps his shit clean, and his toys are no exception. A couple years ago he got the opportunity to buy a sweet 1990 Chevy short wide sport truck that looked showroom new with 60K on the odometer. Since he got it he's done a lot of things to it, including letting me build him a console sub, do some door pods and add to his existing audio system. First thing we did was the box, then the pods, a big three, then added a second 4 channel, some mids & tweets in the dash (all active) and finally, full door panels that I've been working on, on and off for a long time. The system is mild and more suited for sound quality and rock but he can still manage to burp a little over 40 so it's loud enough... for him, lol. Audio equipment consists of a Massive Audio bass amp, one Massive 4 channel, a CT Sounds 4 channel, CT Sounds Meso 12, two pair of JBL MS-62 components and a pair of 3" Dayton Audio midrange drivers. The truck: When Sam first came to me he had a "console box" that another shop had built. I'll show that to you first and then follow up with random build pics from everything else.... Keep in mind, this first box DID NOT come out of my shop. It came out of another shop, wrapped in leather, but not mine, lol. Dat port doe! But what about all those gaps in the curve? SILICONE!!!! So yeah, maybe the sub hung over into the vent and maybe it hung over the right side of the box but hey, it was wrapped in REEEEL leather! That wedge in front of the cup holders was supposed to be a tablet mount. WTAF?? Next up, actual build pics of what I did.
  19. Happy Birthday darling, I love you very very very very, very much. 18" Fi Q sub in a 8.5cu ft sealed enclosure - powered by a Mmats d200hc. 4x Crescendo CTS-1 silk tweeters, 2x 8" Selenium mids, and 2x 6.5" Selenium mids - powered by a Rockford Fosgate 800a4. Knukoncepts wiring throughout, 0ga front to back, 0ga direct plug in to both amps from a tiny stinger battery under the back seat. Enjoy. www.mobileaudiophiles.com -Evan
  20. I was faced with the problem of needing a wooden upper piece to my box but in places not having enough clearance. This required me to make relief cuts in the piece. This is how I made it easy to find where to cut: For more information on the rest of the build, here is the log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/163166-13-subaru-brz-hccaaq2200fiberglass/
  21. 10 year old Forrester, sealed box with amp rack Rockford P3 12", 1.4 cubes sealed. Hertz HDP5 pushing Hertz Hi Energy speakers. Very nice. The pallette Going to try to keep the jack storage Layup was decent, but lumpy as all hell. There were a bunch of chunks of hard resin in my old pail..... The spout hardened up, and I had to break it all apart. I didn't think to strain it out.....
  22. I need help. I bought 2 Sundown 10s E series V3, and a Rockville 6000W / 1500W RMS amp. I'd like to put both subs in my truck behind the rear seat. Ported if possible. If only one sub is needed I'll sell the other one. I'd like low bass. Behind my seat there's 60" across the back. 8" deep at the bottom. I'd like to go 20" tall. (Wedge box) who can help me with port size/type. The sub requires 1.2 cubes tuned at 32-34hz ported. I'll build it if you post it. Thanks for the help.
  23. Hello! For those of you who don't know me my name is Mark and I am the man behind "Car Audio Fabrication" on YouTube. I have posted build threads before (like this one: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154311-video-build-log-fi-bl-rockford-fosgate-focal-knukonceptz-tips-tricks/) and if you have ever seen one you know that I love to mix in "How To" Videos throughout the build that describe the process and show each step. This build will be no different! well, it will a little bit because I am going to try to mix in a lot more pictures for your viewing pleasure! I love to help other car audio enthusiasts young and old, newb and veteran, so if you see something you have a question about ASK! The Vehicle: Chevy Duramax 2500 HD Extended Cab (Will add pics soon) The Gear: Alpine Type R's 6.5" Component Speakers 10" JL Audio W3 Knukonceptz wiring Wirecare.com wire protection products Alpine MRP-M500 Alpine MRP-F300 The Install: Custom Fiberglass Door Pods with Vinyl Wrapped Inserts to accent interior and match sub enclosure Custom Fiberglass Subwoofer Enclosure (Specs to Follow) The Goal: Quality sound that integrates well with the vehicle and requires little to know permanent vehicle modification. (No cutting of panels allowed!) My Goal: Teach the readers of this thread as much about the fabrication of the pods and sub enclosure, as well as the install as I can. Let's begin! We started with collecting some of the gear, the ownder of the vehicle wanted to re-use his Alpine Component Speakers and JL Subwoofer, I talked him into purchasing a MRP-F300 which is the exact same foot print as the MRP-M500 and will allow for a really clean install. The components: [/url] The sub: The amplifier: (Still need pics of the 4 channel) I then determined what was needed wiring wise and put in an order with my friends over at Knukonceptz.com: I am very excited to use their new product the KNF-60, we were one of the first to get a production unit and I was really impressed with using it in a different build so I decided to get one for this one as well: All of the wiring in this build will be protected by Techflex which I recieved from our show sponsor WireCare.com . They really have some great products and the "snake" style techflex will look awesome with the tan and black truck. Its crazy how many colors of this stuff there is! Now the EXCITING stuff! I made these outer insert templates with a series of router techniques and skills, I discuss them in the video. The idea is they will insert into the pod and can be wrapped with a different material or painted to accent the install. Here you can see I will mount the woofer from the rear, and the tweeter is flush mounted: [url=http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/caraudiofabrication/media/942983_663228947037040_1698362909_n_zps01f860f2.jpg.html]L] Finally I added some low temp plastic around the base template so that the top insert could lay flush. I show how I do this in the video as well. [url=http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/caraudiofabrication/media/945797_666402416719693_952490847_n_zps4a3b87be.jpg.html]RL] And here is the video describing the process! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXgq4dhr484 Well thats all for now, let me know what you think! Add this thread to your book marks and check back often!
  24. im designing and very soon building a wall for 4-HDC4 15s and would like to learn about putting 45s in all the corners to "improve airflow". now i do plan to coat the entire inside with resin and sand to either 3000 or 4000 grit for smooth as glass finish for those extra few db. but wanted to see if adding the 45 will improve the db at all, or lower port noise or anything. i have a 3D render on google sketchup of the wall and i can upload pics if requested. about the wall: -4 HDC4.0 15s -2 Q1-4500D.1 amps -16.75ft^3 net volume before woofer displacment -270in^2 port area 20" deep for 36hz tuning. -All walls will be 2x4s with mdf inside and some internal bracing -walled from the B-piller back in a 2004 jeep grand cherokee 4.7L v8 plain with no 45s render with the 45s
  25. Hi guys. Im trying to repair some cracks and holes on fiberglass and I hope you can help me recreate original look. My biggest problem is that fibers receive resins colour and I need them to be a different colour so they can be visible like on a picture below
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