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Found 50 results

  1. CrewCabBassHead

    2 sundown 10s in a crew cab?

    I need help. I bought 2 Sundown 10s E series V3, and a Rockville 6000W / 1500W RMS amp. I'd like to put both subs in my truck behind the rear seat. Ported if possible. If only one sub is needed I'll sell the other one. I'd like low bass. Behind my seat there's 60" across the back. 8" deep at the bottom. I'd like to go 20" tall. (Wedge box) who can help me with port size/type. The sub requires 1.2 cubes tuned at 32-34hz ported. I'll build it if you post it. Thanks for the help.
  2. I'm looking to start building a battery bank since I bought a crescendo bc5500 recently and won't be able to use it for a while. So far all I have done is the big 3 in my vehicle with the stock alt and added two extra batteries. Some walmart battery a friend gave me and an xs power xp750. They power a Skar rp-75.4 and an audiopipe apdl2001d "2krms". I have two crescendo symphony sc-650 6.5" component sets and two sundown x15 v.2's in a custom box tuned to 32 hz. The goal is to eventually have a c1100.4 power two 6.5"s, three tweets, and one 8" fiberglassed in both front doors with three x15s walled off on the bc5500. I want to replace the stock battery and have at least 4 batteries in the back. Just not sure of which batteries to get. I was hoping to not have to spend upwards of 400$ per battery. I'm still a car audio newb so I went to the xspower website and typed 7500 watts in the audio calculator and it told me one d7500 and three xp2500s would be sufficient. Thoughts?? I'll post some pics / more info soon
  3. 5 crossfire xsm8 loudspeakers in each door. power comes from a taramp 3000 HD. had them in for a month or so now. no problems. still deciding on when to put the shag carpet on. glassed both sides. made a mess as usual. strong though.
  4. I need some expert advice. I built this custom center console from 1/2" birch plywood, using filler where needed. I routed all of the inside and outside edges to prep it for laying fiberglass cloth over it as I've seen many people do to dashboards and speaker enclosures on youtube. I used an epoxy resin as a first coat on the wood so it wouldn't start soaking up all the resin when I went to lay down my cloth. But now it looks pretty good and I'm wondering if I should go the extra mile and put cloth on it and a couple more layers of resin to smooth it out and THEN paint or just sand, primer and paint over what is there right now? I'd love some opinions on this. Is there an advantage or disadvantage to going either way. I'm concerned about the wood warping over time from humidity and such if I don't put cloth on it. Your thoughts are much appreciated! Photos attached ?
  5. Hey guys, I need some help... I have a 2002 chevy 1500 ext cab and Im trying to build a high-end system in it. Im only 16, so its a big project for me... I got my truck last august for my birthday, and my parents bought me a HU, and some door speakers on a little amp. It was great, but I knew I wanted at least a single 12 in there. I went with 2 12's in a under-the-seat box. 2 alpine r 12's on 2 rockville rxd-m4's in a ground shaker box. It was cool, but I just kept wanting to upgrade, so I sold one of the amps, and put a sundown 1500D on both the subs at 0.5ohm. It rocked, and still does 2 months later. I want more... the 6.5's and the 4x6's dont keep up with the subs, and im upgrading the subs anyways, both my dad and uncle want sound systems in their cars, and im selling them each one of the 12's. Im deciding to go with 2 sundown x15's on 2 sundown 1500D's. Big money, i know...... Audio kinda sucks..... I have a box designed in sketchup for the subs. I realized that even with the 4 speakers ive got now, they dont really keep up as well as I want them too with the 12's, so I know they wont keep up with 2 15's on 2 times the power. I am keeping the door speakers ive got now, but im adding 4 crescendo pwx 6.5's, i found some kick panel replacements for my truck at an audio store that was closing near my house and got them for $30, what a steal, theyre like $200 everywhere online. So I want to move the alpine 6.5's into the kicks and put 2 PWX 6.5's in each door... Is this possible without too much modding? The little pods in the doors now house a 6.5 and a 1.5" (i think) tweet. Id LOVE if I could fit the 2 6.5's in that little pod without messing anything up or having to mod too much. Any suggestions or help is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys, Trey
  6. Hey everyone. I'm new to the forums. I have experience with car audio for about 20 years as a hobby. Been lurking mostly on here but I want to get some ideas in place for a new build for my truck. I currently have a 10" kicker solo classic sealed in an underseat custom enclosure with about .67 cu ft before displacement. I'm running it off a kicker zx400.1 at 2 ohms. I listen mainly to rock/classic rock/metal 95% of the time. Rap and R/B is the other 5%. So quickness and punch is very important to me for my listening preference. My goal is to get the low punch that you get when you go to a concert and listen to those 18"s hit you in the gut. Super deep is not that necessary, but deeper and punchier than what I currently get, which sucks ass. What I'm planning on doing is to have my friend help me build a custom fiberglass enclosure and getting a different sub. I've narrowed it down to the RE Audio SCX10 or the Sundown e10 v3 d4. I've ran some comparisons on WINISD and the results are a little different, but pretty close with the parameters I'm using. The Re has a better TFM while the Sundown is a little better on SPL from about 57 hz up. I have no idea what the TFM is, but hopefully one of you can help out on that. So that would make my decision a little easier on which sub to get. Now with the fiberglass enclosure, I know making it ported is going to be near to impossible. If it is possible, I'd like to hear ideas on how to do it. So my other option would be to get a 12" earthquake SLAPS PR. Now for a few questions about all this. (Sorry for the story, but want to give as much info as possible) Ported, PR, or sealed? Based on the WINISD I came up with, which would be better for my musical preference? Understanding the terms in WINISD would be a pleasure. A little help? My budget is going to be around $300-$350 for materials. I don't want to upgrade the amp yet. It's working fine. I'm looking more for sound quality than boom. (Rock music?? ) I also want to keep the enclosure under the seat. I have a big family and space is a premium. Thanks for any help.
  7. Hey everyone!! I am getting ready to do my door panels and I need to get a rough idea of how many quarts of Sunflash to order. For the experienced, approximately how many quarts should do a single door panel? I am doing these on my 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee, below the armrest and from the back of the map pocket to the front of the dash line covering the factory speaker grills. I am just putting one component set in each door to cut my teeth. If I can work the materials well enough I may build a second set of door panels holding two sets of components on each door. Thanks everyone!!
  8. Finally started a new project im my "new" car! 1998 Omega B My plan is to keep building a bit over the winter and spring to get ready for next years car and car audio meets/competitions. This Isn't an spl oriented build as I want it to play low and awesome with a clear front stage, but I'll still do my best with what I end up getting. I'll be participating at least What I get as far as equippment will be revealed as I get it. I have a plan, but I might change my mind so I won't say anything just yet! What I am clear on so far is that I'm rebuilding my front doors, and that's where I'll start this project. The doors will house two 6.5"s each and I'll have a pair of tweets in either the a-pillars or in stock location if it'll fit. To begin with I'll see if my Tang Band speakers might work in a car, so you'll se those in the pics. So lets get to building This is what I have to work with Behind the panel and plastic Teardown ¨ Theese are the different parts the doors consists of, partly screwed and glued The glue was sto strong so I couldn't just pull the old fabric off On the bright side the resin etc. should get a good grip on this, might drill a few holes as well Theese are the parts I'll be altering, the rest will be left stock After I have my plan of attack, I'll get to making some speaker "rings" Made a little sketchup drawing to figure out my dimentions I spent som time making the first piece When it's done I'll use it as a template to make the others. This is much easier with the right tools so I made my own little thrown together router table Then I made the ruff cuts Put on some double sided tape Then let the flush trim bit do it's job Theese will be the outer rings. I used a rabbeting bit to get my desired inner diameter This is how they ended up with a little 45 for good looks 45'd the rear of the speaker holes Done, just need to be glued together Checking fitment The depth is alowing me to add some sort of speaker grille Just enough clearance for vinyl http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i326/Sondre_Tveit/Stereo/20140905_155205_zpsepgts3sx.jpg That's all I have for now! There will be updates as I make progress
  9. Hi guys. Im trying to repair some cracks and holes on fiberglass and I hope you can help me recreate original look. My biggest problem is that fibers receive resins colour and I need them to be a different colour so they can be visible like on a picture below
  10. Sam is a guy who keeps his shit clean, and his toys are no exception. A couple years ago he got the opportunity to buy a sweet 1990 Chevy short wide sport truck that looked showroom new with 60K on the odometer. Since he got it he's done a lot of things to it, including letting me build him a console sub, do some door pods and add to his existing audio system. First thing we did was the box, then the pods, a big three, then added a second 4 channel, some mids & tweets in the dash (all active) and finally, full door panels that I've been working on, on and off for a long time. The system is mild and more suited for sound quality and rock but he can still manage to burp a little over 40 so it's loud enough... for him, lol. Audio equipment consists of a Massive Audio bass amp, one Massive 4 channel, a CT Sounds 4 channel, CT Sounds Meso 12, two pair of JBL MS-62 components and a pair of 3" Dayton Audio midrange drivers. The truck: When Sam first came to me he had a "console box" that another shop had built. I'll show that to you first and then follow up with random build pics from everything else.... Keep in mind, this first box DID NOT come out of my shop. It came out of another shop, wrapped in leather, but not mine, lol. Dat port doe! But what about all those gaps in the curve? SILICONE!!!! So yeah, maybe the sub hung over into the vent and maybe it hung over the right side of the box but hey, it was wrapped in REEEEL leather! That wedge in front of the cup holders was supposed to be a tablet mount. WTAF?? Next up, actual build pics of what I did.
  11. I have a pair of door pods for an 88-91 Chevy/GMC full size truck. We built him a set of full door panels so these are ready for a new home! They're made to house two 6.5" midbass drivers and one tweeter. They had MS-62 components in them but anything about 2.5" depth will work without cutting the doors. I'll ship these panels painted to match any factory interior color and will do any custom color plus the cost of paint. We can also air brush anything you want on them at an additional charge. Cost is $500.00 plus shipping, whatever that is to your place. I don't mark up shipping or add handling costs but I won't pay it.
  12. Well...here is my build for my 06 Pontiac Solstice. Misc Mods: Dual Air Intake Big Bore Throttle Body Hi-Flow Headers Custom Exhaust Lowered Painted Aftermarket Rims Smoked Tails Custom Made Projector Headlights and Foglights (Two-Toned to match car) Custom F430 bumps Custom Side Vents Custom rear Valence Painted Misc Parts on Car to match theme Interior Audio: Alpine DVD Headunit Dual Infinity Kappa 6.5" Components in Custom made Pods (Arc Audio Tweeters and Crossovers) Infinity Kappa 12" Woofer in Custome made Fiberglass Box behind Passenger Seat 4 Channel Arc Audio KS Amp - 90 x 4 Mono block Arc Audio KS Amp - 600 x 1 Amps in a small amp rack in the rear boot area
  13. im designing and very soon building a wall for 4-HDC4 15s and would like to learn about putting 45s in all the corners to "improve airflow". now i do plan to coat the entire inside with resin and sand to either 3000 or 4000 grit for smooth as glass finish for those extra few db. but wanted to see if adding the 45 will improve the db at all, or lower port noise or anything. i have a 3D render on google sketchup of the wall and i can upload pics if requested. about the wall: -4 HDC4.0 15s -2 Q1-4500D.1 amps -16.75ft^3 net volume before woofer displacment -270in^2 port area 20" deep for 36hz tuning. -All walls will be 2x4s with mdf inside and some internal bracing -walled from the B-piller back in a 2004 jeep grand cherokee 4.7L v8 plain with no 45s render with the 45s
  14. Here's a link to my Tahoe pics (Wall Design thanks to Robin Butler!) https://drive.google.com/?usp=web_ww_after_dl#folders/0B58ldAG-KZlVcHhjb2xrN2pRMFU The ISSUE that I'm having is the company that I had build my Wall did NOT "seal it off" properly at all. My Truck is getting a LOT of air movement to the REAR (which shouldn't happen at all...), and as Robin Butler has told me, I'm losing quite a bit of pressure in the front due to this issue. Also I realized they left my entire Roof Panel up on the Tahoe, which I thought was supposed to be removed and put MDF and Spray Foam or something up... I'm at a loss of SOUND QUALITY more or less. Yeah, 4 18's in a 4th is smashing pretty hard, BUT with panels still up that frankly should've been taken out I don't feel that I have a system that is both Clean and Loud. Still rattling when loud. Yes, the entire truck is 2-layers sound deadened with Damplifier Pro and Alpha Damp... ** I'd like to know how I can remove the Headliner off the Roof and fill it in with MDF or whatever and connect it to the wall, as well as Fill in gaps in the Front / Sides / Rear of the Wall so there is absolutely NO air leaks whatsoever. Id like the front of the interior (wall, panels, dash, etc) colored somehow too. Robin mentioned using Vinyl for that. Of course I also realize I need Fiberglassed door panels too. Whatever it takes to get a much more solid sound and clarity while still being loud as heck! - Any Advice is greatly appreciated, thanks guys!
  15. I am doing my senior project on a custom fiberglass enclosure for some JL Audio subwoofers and I'll have updates as I go so keep tuned!
  16. Sup guys.. Well after a couple systems I actually feel like this one is "thread worthy" I finally have most of it, and should be playing before June 29th, for the Usaci show in Houston at House Of Sounds And before I go any further, I want to thank Kim at Sound Solutions in Houston, TX for the box, and my fiberglassed door panels, and the super hook up on the prices. They do some great work, and for someone who doesn't have the skills of doing it they are the right place to get anything done! Car Details 2003 Jeep Grand Cherroke Leardo 88k Miles 22" 2Crave No. 11 wrapped in 265/30/22 Spec D halo projector headlights w/ 55w Canbus 5k headlights now for what everyone really wants to know System Details (2) Sundown X 15's Crescendo 3500 @.5 Crescendo 1100.4 (2) sets Mezzo 6.5 fiberglassed in front doors Singer "270a" Hairpin alternator w/ powered coating XS Power VCM XS Power D6500 (2) XS Power D3100 CT Sounds OFC 0/1 (2runs front to back) CT Sounds 80Mil SHCA Lugs & Heatshrink Aluminum Battery Blocks (6 & 4 inputs) Plexi window Picked this up local, bnib Picked up 2 1100.4, only using one though thanks to Scooter! Mezzo 6.5 Some SHCA goodies CT 80mil on doors, roof, back hatch From mike before I got the alt
  17. My first wall in the Jeep broke some stuff and water leaked in and got the wall all nasty and moldy so it had to be destroyed. It consisted of ten entry level Audio Technix Tropo 10s on a Crescendo bc5500 and barely did 150db at 29hz. This rebuild will be less subs and slightly more power but should be a lot louder. This will take a while, because it is being squeezed in between my customer's builds, so be patient.
  18. This build will be gradual so bear with me The Sub is a DC lvl3 18 with lvl4 upgrade, powered by a BC2000d @ 1 ohm. I have a 300amp Singer that i got from a member here, as well as an optima 34/78. I also have an XS D1200 en-route. I started by building the port. .375 roundover on all port edges. I should have waited to route the front of the port until the box was complete though. i Had to fill in the corners with bondo and go over them with the router a few times to get them perfect. If i would have thought about it before i started, i could have saved myself a lot of time. A also completely forgot to subtract the volume of the port bracing from the total port area... You live and you learn, right? Working on said port bracing. Used the C-clamp to keep the ends of the smaller pieces of mdf bracing from splitting. I like to drill pilot holes on the small side... Working on said port bracing. Used the C-clamp to keep the ends of the smaller pieces of mdf bracing from splitting. I like to drill pilot holes on the small side...
  19. Its me again the super noob had a question: I finally got my new car( well new to me) I wanna start my first build and i wanna be adventurous. I have purchase 3 sets of sound qubed pro audio mids and super tweeter which i will put in the doors( or maybe 2 sets in the door and 1 set in the kick panels). is i plan to fiberglass the doors lucky for me i have a junk car that is the same exact car. the issue is these door panels have a pocket you ca actually open up. what would be the best way fiberglass the doors for door pods cut into the plastic? remove the pocket and build the pods? here are a few pics to give you an idea: thanks in advance any input would be highly appreciated
  20. I am doing a pair of fiberglass boxes and I want the finish to be chrome-like or something shiny. Something like this picture. How do I do this? I've made fiberglass boxes before with finishes of trunk liner and carpet and fleece, but I have no idea how to do something like this.
  21. Whats going on everyone? Well i have sticky situation. I a noob looking for some help the issue is since i have joined this page i have done lots of research and been making boxes for friends and what not. the issue is i wanted to try at making a ported enclosure which i did. It came out good... too good this one 12 JL 12w3 sounded good it was tuned at 33 hz. so good i had to question my fiberglass box ( also a first) i made about a year ago. The problem is the box holds 3 infinity kappa 120.1 se. Aftter taking it out i measured it again. it is grossly over sized at about 5.3125 ft^3 So I am sure this attributes to the over all sound when it is suggested to have the enclosure at 1 ft^3. the good news is it is roughly 1.75 ft^3 per sub which is ideal for the sub, My question is if adding an aerial port to this box is feasible i checked it out using torres calculator and it says a 4 inch port 6 inches long would be tuned at 32.28 hz. Or should i just scrap the box? If i should keep it would creating the port be best on the fiberglass or the wood frame(back/ bottom) Any help would be highly appreciated also what would the easiest way to go about doing so?
  22. I am going to build a fiberglass wakeboard tower enclosure for a friend. He wants 4 x 6"s and one 8 " Sub, all marine application components, no problems there. I will be seperating the 8" enclosure from the rest of the others. The sub will be in the middle, and two 6"s on each side. The glassing, filling, sanding, painting is not the question. My question is should the box be ported or sealed? I have built several enclosures, but all inside a vehicle. This will be wide open, hanging from a wakeboard tower and I want to get the most response from the sub as possible' will there even be a distinct difference? What are your suggestions, follow up questions? Thanks in advance!
  23. Does fiberglassing the inside or outside of a subwoofer enclosure have any benefits?
  24. So I updated my youtube page with a new build video. It is showing off the work from start to almost finished of my door panels and tweeter pods for my dodge magnum build. Coming along slowly but surely. Finishing up the doors and wiring, then the false floors and sub box next. Going for the budget build world record, so we will see what happens. video below. there are also other videos on my youtube page, but this is the most detailed one to date. TheRemmyd
  25. Hey guys, noobie here. I need some help on this project I want to do. I want to have a oil pressure gauge, water temp gauge, and a manifold vacuum gauge. My plan is to have 3 gauge pods on top of a single din spacer and Plexiglass, fabricated in the bezel.The single din spacer is where i can place and have my wires organized, and the Plexiglass is where I will be mounting the gauge pods on top of. Here are some pics of the bezel. Single din spacer taped to it. Here i have the gauge pods temporarily set on the single din spacer but its where the plexiglass will be. they are autometer angeled gauge rings #2234 that I bought. I was going to epoxy the single din spacer and plexiglass to the bezel, and epoxy the angled gauge pods to the Plexiglass, then cutting a hole in the plexiglass so the gauges can go in, but didnt know what to do about the empty gaps. Sorry for not uploading a pic of the plexiglass on top of the single din spacer, didnt have it cut out yet. My question is, how do I make the gauge pods one piece with the bezel? Is there some sort of filler to fill in those gaps and make it one piece? And if so what type of filler should I use? And what steps should I take If you guys have any suggestions or advice please tell me. Thanks.
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