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Found 18 results

  1. --Re-worded-- PLEASE let me know if this is still wrong. not trying to do this wrong. all help is apriciated!! thanks!! ------------------ What alternator should I add to install Alternator install will be on a 2006 Silverado Crew-Cab, Head unit -Kenwood DNX-8120, 4 x JL Audio 8w3's, Focal K2 Power-165 v2 (Front-mids/highs), Focal Polyglass - 165 V2 (Rear - mids/highs), JL Audio Slash 1000 v2 (subs), Alpine 400x4 (mids/highs), BIG 3, Dynomat throughout. I also will be adding a 14 volt batt and the alternator will also be 14volts, I assum ei will need a batt. isolater or somthing to convert for 12 volt to charge optima already under the hood. thanks Alot!! ALL opinions are welcome!!
  2. Waiting on title to be mailed to the old owner & everything will be finalized. 2001 Silverado Z71 4x4 5.3 V8. Only mods done are Flowmaster Outlaw exhaust & 2" lift on front to level truck. Truck has 158k but it drives better than our new work trucks. Already has a Sony headunit, just need different mount kit to add a Clarion EQ. More pictures/info to come as things come together. Comments/suggestions appreciated, especially on how to mount DIN slots for the scanners in the center console. Can't link pictures, but I have the same center console as this truck hereaap
  3. Hey need some help here I am not the most mechanically inclined person but a programmer to set my fuel economy, power and tires would help me out a lot any advice ???
  4. Hello, I'm new here so please inform me if at any point i'm doing something that is against forum rules. The Basics: Vehicle- 1993 Chevy Silverado 1500 General- This will not be an epic world record build in any way. I am a senior in Mechanical Engineering so both time and money is limited. I try to do the best with what resources I have and can afford. On the side I have installed numerous sound systems for fellow university students. Majority of it being prefab that people simply have me install. I have also built a number of custom sealed boxes, and a small handful of ported ones for people to use. I have fiber glassed once and I learned the hard way through trial and error. This is my first aero/circular port build. I have too many hobbies and not enough time or money. I appreciate all feedback positive or negative as long as it is indeed feedback with suggestions and not just slandering. I WILL BE ASKING LOTS OF QUESTIONS AND SEEKING ADVICE! Gear- I understand I could have done better with some used things, but the majority of products used are all things I had laying around or left over from other people changing thr minds. Headunit- Alpine 9886 Amps- Soundstream 120.4 Granite (old school) Soundstream Tarantula TX1.2000D Considering a second Soundstream Tarantula TX1.2000D Speakers- Front: Polk db461 -scratched due to mounting depth Front: Infinity reference 4x6 6422cfp Rear: MB Quart 6.5 Subs- TWO 15" Subs NEW that are cheap subs and I got them even cheaper, its a start... Plan to run them inverted Specs are as follows: Fs(Hz): 23.4 Qms: 6.589 Vas(ft3): 5.451 Xmax(mm): 15.3 Xmech(mm): 22.95 Qes: .84 Re(ohm): 4 Voice Coil: Dual 2ohm V.C. Diameter(in): 2.5 Rms: 1200 Max: 2800 Qts: .745 1w/1m SPL(db): 85.6 Overall Diameter(in): 15.75 Overall Height(in): 9.375 Mounting depth(in): 8.5 Wire- Knukonceptz KCA 1/0 Knukonceptz distribution block 2 (0 Gauge) to 3 (4/8 Gauge) Battery- Tsunami Side Post long adapters OPEN TO SUGGESTIONS, what is a inexpensive battery upgrade from stock? Anyone know of a kit for dual battery in the engine bay on my truck, ik specific models offered it ALT- Suggestions BIG 3- Wiring done Box Dimensions- Two separate boxes. Width: 21.25 Depth: 17.5 Height: 16.75 V: 2.57477ft^3 4" aero ports I forgot the exact length apprx. 7" Tuning to 35Hz I will post lots of pics! Due to time constraints I will devote Saturday evenings to the build and try to get updates that night, currently I have spent a few hours over two weekends on the build.
  5. Alright guys, I am looking for some kind of fixed tensioner setup to convert my 2006 silverado with the 5.3L engine to. Reason is that I have installed a triple alt bracket and 2 h.o. alts and just replaced the tensioner, but it still slips with little load on the alternators. If I press the gas and have someone watch the automatic tensioner they can see the tensioner lose ground as the engine speeds up. I know its a long-shot and its alot of belt to tighten but just wondering if anybody knew of something.. thanks
  6. Hey everyone i am new to the site and forum i was wondering if anyone could help me out with any knowledge they have on the subject. I am building a custom build for my truck which is a 2000 silverado extended cab, and i cant find anything out there on what im looking for exactly. my goal is to build a ported box to specs for 4 Alpine 1043D subwoofers i would like the box to be ported and as loud as possible. I have a Rockford Fosgate t1500-1bdcp that is going to power the whole system and was wondering if anyone has any ideas on a box that would fit my truck preferably on the bench seat in the back but i can take the bench out if push come to shove please help out if you can. Thanks. 517 Audio
  7. Well I've been here a year, had my system a year, and haven't really posted anything about it. Figure since I'm starting to put some more money and time into modding it, I might as well start up a log. My dad bought me the truck the February of my freshman year, I'm about to finish my junior year now, with 142k miles on the clock. Had a fairly fresh crate Vortec 350 and 4L60E combo stuck in it at ~110k miles. Got it for a cool $3500. Currently, it has 163k miles, pretty much stock everything. Stock 110a or whatever alt, a new Duralast Gold battery, and the stuff in my signature. It's time for pics! First weekend it was at my house... Exterior is stock, apart from the HUGE dent in the fender which you can see in this picture from when it snowed in January, and yes it was stuck there for 3 days. I've got space for another Fi 10 back there or a single 12. But not much space. Not posting my first box, that thing was a disgrace, lol. But here is my current box. 1.59 net, 2x3 inch ports, 1/2 inch Russian Birch. 1.24 after displacements tuned to like 33.5hz. Clears the SSD PERFECTLY and should clear a BL 10 also. Which is my planned sub upgrade if I stay with a single sub. A little Fi beauty... And the JB weld on the dustcap is from the dustcap popping off during the summer.... Here is todays progress though, stripped the entire interior, reran RCA's, power wire, and the monsterous 14 gauge SkyHigh speaker wire to my doors from my old school Fosgate Punch 40x2 Trans Ana. My floor is FILTHY. But it went from this... to This. And hella clean wiring Thanks for the fast shipping skyhigh! It got too dark to take pictures of the doors... Besides this one before I went and ate my early birthday dinner(Chicken fried steak, mashpotatoes/gravy, and fresh grean beans)... I need some deadener and better door speakers bad! But Those little DS65's have a 14 gauge direct lead to each of them. Sound pretty decent off the 40 or 50 watts the Punch 40x2 is sending them. I got a Nexus 7 for my birthday, deciding on either swapping the Pioneer AVH-P4400BH double din I have in my garage for the CZ501 single din or doing something like this with the Nexus 7 on a removable mount... That's all my progress for today. It's a pretty slow build due to work, summer college classes, and budget. Along with my 90 F250 that I'll post in my next post. Any comments are appreciated guys.
  8. As the title says, I am looking to purchase a set of Kick Panels for my truck. I know Q-Logic (Q-Form) makes them, and I'm not sure if anyone else does. I figured I would start here and see if I can find some for a better price than new, otherwise I may just make a set like I had done for my last truck. Thanks.
  9. Summary: 08 Silverado, ext cab, 5.3L. Walled off with seats in comfortable positions (not straight up and down like some dedicated walls). This will be a daily driver still. I don't want a system that ONLY hits low end, I dont listen to purely boosted music, i want a system that can do well on a variety of music. Basically a system any passenger can throw on their phone on the aux and listen to what they want and sound good and loud. Goals for System: I have a few goals, anything above that is a plus. * Very musical like from 27hz to 50 hz or so * Crazy Hair-tricks * Nasty lows that you hear from blocks away * 153s Amps: Either of the following combinations (help me decide) looking to stay below 2 grand for amps (mind you these numbers arent including any rises, these are the top of the spectrum at absolutely max power, voltage and unlikely circumstance but why not account for these anyways ) * B2M1u - Running at 0.5Ω daily & burping (4950w @ 14.4v per sub theorycrafting) $2000 * Two Crescendo5500 - Running at 1Ω daily & Burping (2900w @ 13.8v per sub theorycrafting) $2000 * Two SoundQubed3500 - 8600w @ 14.4v - running at 1Ω daily & 0.25Ω burping (2150w @ 14.4 daily & 7000w @ 14.4v burping per sub theorycrafting) $1200 Subs: Four SoundQubed HDC4-15s Charging System: Triple Alt bracket, stock alt for regular electrical and two 300+Amp alts for audio system. (recommendations on alts for this system?) also will probably run ext regulated so I can run a 16v audio electrical More details on Electrical: All electrical will be in a waterproof toolbox in the back of the bed under a soft top. Hole cut in the bottom or back to allow access for wires into cab. * 6 banks of 8 caps per bank. (maybe more banks) * 2 runs of 1/0 for power off each alt to rear * Dual inputs on both amps for 4 runs total of both power and ground * Alternator grounds going straight to strut mount brace for a vehicle grounding. * All grounds in rear from cap bank/amps going straight to frame Fusing: * All 4 runs off alternators being fused in back before connecting to cap banks. * Fuse between cap banks and amps * Any other places I'm forgetting? Random Details: I would like to leave about 1/4 to 1/3 of the toolbox free for actual storage for like a bag of fuses, drill, and other random tools for comps. I dont have toolbox yet but will get one that fits under the soft top and leaves enough room for me to load my motorcycle up with the tailgate down. So all in all does this sound like its pretty well planned out or is there some major changes i need to make? Heres my truck in all her glory
  10. Update 12/9/13: Box is complete as shown in the picture below, this thread will show how I made this from start to finish! Original first post: Hey all! Much like my previous threads I am starting another part of a build that will be completely documented through video. The support for the door pod series was awesome and I hope you guys enjoy this series just as much. Just like before I will be video taping every single step and editing all the information together to present to you. If you haven't seen my videos before I hope that you enjoy them and would love to hear what you think! If you missed the seeing the door pods I mentioned above here is how they turned out: http://www.youtube.com/caraudiofabrication'> If you would like to see the in depth process of each step for how I made these door pods there is a conveniently organized playlist on YouTube at this link: But enough about the door pods! Its time to get into our next project: The Fiberglass Under Seat Sub Box! Lets get started! First a little about the system: The Vehicle: Chevy Duramax 2500 HD Extended Cab (Will add pics soon) The Gear: Alpine Type R's 6.5" Component Speakers 10" JL Audio W3 (Just kidding, I was planning on using this but have fallen in love with the DAD KMH-8, so we are using that instead) Knukonceptz wiring Wirecare.com wire protection products Alpine MRP-M500 Alpine MRP-F300 If you are interested in a review for the KMH-8 or learning more, check this out: I started with a concept, I knew that I wanted to build a box that would house both the amplifiers for the system and hide the wiring, but at the same time I wanted quick and easy access to them. The plan for how I am going to do this is difficult to explain, but as the build progresses it will become clear. The box will also feature several inserts, I have entertained the idea of doing light up plexi on parts of the box. But I am not sure I want too. What do you guys think? Anyhow here is the initial idea, I like to get stuff out on paper first, really gets the creative juices flowing: http://www.youtube.com/caraudiofabrication'> With the general idea framed out I started building. Pretty traditional stuff here but one of the coolest things I can teach you here is how I used a "Adjustable Curve" to get a perfect match with the floor contour of the vehicle. I also got the "Beauty Panel" frame trimmed out on the top of the box. http://www.youtube.com/caraudiofabrication'> To see the steps that got me to this point check out the video below! Well, thats it for now, off to a good start, I already have the bottom fiberglass molded, just need to edit the video, so you guys have to wait! Let me know what you guys think, wondering what direction you think I should go with the insert pieces, back lit, metal mesh, etc.
  11. so i have been looking around, maybe didnt look hard enough idk, but i cant seem to find out why with my setup im having a drop. 2004 Silverado Mechman 370 amp and voltage regulator with guage big 3 d3400 under hood d3100 in back Skar 2500 2 Fi Btl n2 at 1ohm So my voltage as far as i have read is ok to be set at 15v with these xs and i have had it this way for idk 2 years now and this issue has been this way whole time just asking the question now before i prep for the DC 10k to be put in, the issue is obviously voltage drop at idle its fine with alternator over the 1200 or 1500 rpm whatever it is but from reading other ppls setups to me seems like i should be able to run my setup full tilt without that much voltage drop. the voltage drop is enough to turn off my headunit so like below 13.5 idk my headunit doesnt like voltage too much lower than stock which is kinda good since it doesnt stay on like below 13 to really damage my stuff. So i know adding another d3100 id be set but for like 2700w 3 big batts and a 370 seems like alot, i checked my grounds they seem solid and fine its all 1/0 and hydraulic crimped so is there something wrong or does this setup seem like ya i should be dropping that much at idle because i dont want to have this problem when i add my 10k and have to have more batteries than i actually should need, and no i dont plan on running a 10k on just 2 batteries but i would like to know about how many d3100 i should need oh and system tuned with dd-1 and cc-1 headunit is pioneer DEH-x8500BS
  12. Vehicle is an '05 Silverado 2500HD with bose and onstar. I do not use onstar and never plan to and I won't need bose either because I'll be using pwx-6's and some tweets on a nendo 800/4. I have never dealt with a double din or a vehicle with onstar/bose systems but I'm looking at the Pioneer AVH-X4600BT. I really would like to retain factory chimes if possible but I have no idea what harness I need. I guess to sum it up my questions are what harness do I need to retain chimes? Bose and onstar won't matter. Any suggestions on a different HU or is this good to start? Just looking for a fairly basic double din for everyday use doesn't need to do anything fancy. I do prefer that it has 3 sets of pre-outs. I typically use a thumb drive for my music. Thanks in advance, guys.
  13. Im thinking about making a blow through for an Alpine Type R 10" and was wanting to know if that would be to small to sound good in a 1.5-3 cube box... the sub sounds super good right now just not in a good box for it and doesnt get as low as I want right now but the blow through will be 32-34 Hz
  14. Im building a ported box for 4 rockford p2 8s under the back seat of a 2012 silverado 1500. the available space for the box is just too small once i factor in the sub and port displacement. ive heard people say that fiberfill tricks subs into thinking they are in a larger enclosure. would adding fiberfill make up for the box being too small?
  15. Ive got a Samsung tab 4. I'd love to put it in my dash, and i know it will fit, it will take about 4mm of cutting on the dash, I can build some kind of bracket for it. Thats not necessarily the issue. I have an alpine 1din HU, and this tablet will just run the music, not put it to the speakers, it will connect via bluetooth to the HU. Is there any way I can fit the HU where the factory cassette player is? I know it will take a lot of opening a hole for it, but im not sure depth wise if it will fit. If you guys know of a better place to mount the HU, that would be great, or even a better place for the tablet, that would work too. Id prefer the tablet to be a part of the dash/console, just not on a stand or a suction cup mount. Any ideas will help, so dont be afraid to tell me what youre thinking on it. Thanks in advance for any help, its appreciated.
  16. I need some help out there. I want to put some new rims and rubber on my stock 2011 silverado but am unsure about modifying my truck too much as I pull a camper during the summer months, just need it to look good for that so tell me what you think of whick rims and tires I can get away with without modifying my truck
  17. Hey guys, loooong time reader here, first time real contributor. I've been helping friends install systems almost my entire life, and have been consistently disappointed with the results because where I lived what was popular was tons of watts on a shit prefab box stuffed with alpine 15s. No amps for the front stage, using rear fill speakers (something I do not care for) also with no amps (entire front stage powered by HU amp) tuned terribly with the deck clipping at half. Just riding around with their systems at clipping, no sound treatment just buzzing like a hive. I had a bunch of shitty shit happen all at once. My car broke down (thankfully I have a truck too) so I decided to spend a little savings to start putting together a system that I would really enjoy without spending ungodly amounts on like class A amps and shit (unnecessary for the music I like anyway) So I have started installing things into my truck, and have unfortunately not been taking pics as I have made progress so I am going to pretty much start from here, with pics coming later. The point of this system being to stay at lowest possible watts while still achieving decent SPL for daily listening and driving (complete daily driver non-comp) and to retain a look that is not too flashy and meshes well with the stock interior. So far I have: Installed F.A.S.T. Rings, Installed a new Kenwood HU with basic features and the not too flashy look that I was going for, Installed a JL Audio 2 way system which I just chucked the passive crossover for, installed a pair of 3" mid-ranges and weather treated the rear sides, hooked up a JL audio 360/2 for the mid-bass, hooked up 2 cheapy Pioneer amps for the mids and tweets, hooked up a relay which I think I wired wrong and have to fix soon, ran all the wire, ran distribution blocks, made a new ground, installed all the amps on a very basic placeholder amp "rack" panel behind the seats, installed all the speakers, and the truck is currently at the shop getting a general tune up. I recently ordered but have not yet received: some ABS to make fill panels, some second skin resonance panel liner sticky stuff whatever its called, A Sundown Audio E- D4 V.5, A Sundown Audio SAE600-D, Some clamps and general tools, a new woodworking router, various speaker building parts, some DuraTex and a roller, A grill for the subwoofer to protect it in its very exposed position. Currently I am having some basic work done and trying to get my shop guy to take out my jump seat too, which will make room for the subwoofer box I plan on building. This is going to be a long build however because I am starting with upgrading my workshop before I actually get to work making the box, which I plan on being .85 cu ft with a one side kerfed slot port tuned to 35ish. I was also unfortunately laid off last week so now I feel obligated to spend as little as possible on coming stages which sucks because I was going to set up an air tool system soon. :/ But we soldier on! So the next step is to get you all some pics and the next step in building is to go junkyarding looking for a decent 1 1/2+ HP compressor motor to upgrade this 25$ shitty table saw I have, or possibly also buying an old Craftsman bench to upgrade, but I think my garbage saws guts will be fine, and I plan on building a new fence, top, miter slots, miter gauge, cleaning top to bottom, and changing the pulley size to get the speed perfect, tuning the trueness (whatever. words.) and changing out the motor with a link belt. I think that can make any saw rip with the best of em. Ill post pics as soon as I get her back. OnePunch
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