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  1. Back with a new car, and a new build. 2018 Honda Civic Sport Hatchback will be the new canvas. And here is the Sub! DC Audio Level 4 12 D1 with direct leads, carbon fiber cap, and candy red basket: So far I have designed a box in WINISD and Torres to come up with a 2.5 ft^3 Net box with a 22" long 6" aero port (Big Ass Port.) I will post up screenshots from each program to get a second look at the specs in the box building section. Plan is to hook this bad boy up to my Rockford Fosgate T1500bdcp at 2 ohms, providing 1500 watts at a slightly higher efficiency than the amp provides at 1 ohm. For the doors so far, we have some SSA Evil 6.5s tucked in with some NVX deadener and Stinger FAST Rings. Doors are definitely not complete, but it's a start. Evils vs stock speakers: This will be a slow build, but it's going to get exciting, so stay tuned!
  2. CrewCabBassHead

    2 sundown 10s in a crew cab?

    I need help. I bought 2 Sundown 10s E series V3, and a Rockville 6000W / 1500W RMS amp. I'd like to put both subs in my truck behind the rear seat. Ported if possible. If only one sub is needed I'll sell the other one. I'd like low bass. Behind my seat there's 60" across the back. 8" deep at the bottom. I'd like to go 20" tall. (Wedge box) who can help me with port size/type. The sub requires 1.2 cubes tuned at 32-34hz ported. I'll build it if you post it. Thanks for the help.
  3. Equipment [for 2014]: Starts on pg 9 Kenwood KDC-X595 Headunit Execution Audio 270 & Singer 275 XS Power S3400, 3 D3100's, and 3 Deka Intimidators Taramps HD6500 4 CT Sounds Meso 2.0 15's CT Sounds CT-125.4 4 Pioneer TS-M650 Pro's 2 Studio Pro 8's *Personal Bests on the Wall 2014-2015 (By Manufacturer Rating, not Clamped (so before rise)]: 153.3 on 4kw @ 50hz [CT Sounds 4000.1 Proto][4 CT Meso 2.0's](TL) 156.2 on 7kw @ 50hz [Taramps HD6500][4 CT Meso 2.0's](TL) Equipment [for 2015]: Starts on pg 16 Kenwood KDC-X595 Headunit Execution Audio 270a & Singer 275a XS Power S3400 (starter), 3 XS D3100's, and 3 Deka Intimidators 2 RD Audio D9's @ .5ea 4 B2 Audio XM 15's CT Sounds CT-125.4 4 Pioneer TS M650 Pro's 2 Pyle Pro 8's *Personal Bests on the Wall 2014-2015 (By Manufacturer Rating, not Clamped (so before rise)]: 158.4 on 12kw @ 48/49hz(157.7 Official @ USACi Show on 6010VA Clamped) [2 RD D9's][4 B2 XM 15's](TL Magnum) Equipment [for 2015/16]: Starts on pg 37 Kenwood KDC-X595 Headunit Execution Audio 270a & Singer 275a XS Power S3400 (starter), 2 XS D3100's, and 4 Deka Intimidators 2 RD Audio D9's @ .5ea 2 Taramps HD8000's 4 B2 Audio XM 15's CT Sounds CT-125.4 2 PRV 10MB500 Mids 4 B2 HN10P Mids 8 DB Drive S8's *Personal Bests by the Wall 2015-2016 (By Manufacturer Rating, not clamped (so before rise)]: 157.3 on 12kw @ 42hz [2 RD D9's][4 B2 XM 15's](TL Magnum) 158.1 on 16kw @ 46hz [6400VA][2 HD8000's][4 B2 XM 15's](TL Magnum) Equipment [for 2017]: Starts on pg 42 Kenwood KDC-X595 Headunit Execution Audio 270a & Singer 320a Hairpin XS Power S3400 (starter), 2 XS D3100's, and 4 Deka Intimidators 2 Taramps HD8000's 2 Taramps Bass 12k's 4 B2 Audio XM 15's CT Sounds CT-125.4 & B2 MA1000.2 4 B2 HN10P Mids 8 DB Drive S8's 2:1 4th Order tuned to 50Hz 157.6 @ 47Hz [2 HD8000's clamping ~3-3500w *dumb rise] 160.5 @ 47Hz [2 Bass 12k's clamping ??? *still dumb rise ; probably around 7kw] Equipment for 2018 : Starts on Page 61 Kenwood KDC-X501 Headunit Execution Audio 270a & Singer 320a Hairpin XS Power S3400 (starter), 1 XS D3100's, and 7 Deka Group 31's 2 Taramps Bass 12k's 4 B2 Audio XM 15's CT Sounds CT-125.4 & B2 MA1000.2 4 B2 HN10P Mids 8 DB Drive S8's 6th Order tuned XXX.X @ XXHz [2 Bass 12k's]
  4. Probably going to be rebuilding to a series 6th. Issue is, no real T/S on my current subs (B2 XM v1 15 d0.5's) For those who have experience with series 6ths or know a thing or two, feel free to chime in. REAR - 13.6 @ 28Hz (138sq in of port) FRONT - 18.98 @ 58Hz (511sq in of port) Power is 2 12k's (not ran full tilt though, too much power, assume 4kw per sub) and they have like 60-70mm p2p excursion. Goal is to play down to 25 with authority and annihilate low 30's and play up to about 45-50 I want the baffle flat (loading 90+ lb woofers in a flat wall SUCKS). I can also get more volume, but would like the keep the width and length to 49 for the sake of MDF comes as 49 width pieces (makes making it easy)
  5. So I'm trying to design a box for my 2 zv3 12's, i have installed 2 bucket seats in the rear of my 02 chevy pickup, and things have changed a ton in that truck since i last posted here. I plan on doing 2 zv3's in a ported box in between the 2 seats, almost like a tall center console. i found a 3D model of a zv3 12 on a different fourm, but i cant get the person to respond with a link to a download. Im just trying to get an accurate look of the box, and also having a model of the sub would be cool
  6. this is my 2004 gmc sierra regular cab pickup amps 2x aq2200 lanzar opti 250.4 rf 850.4 no name garbage 200.4 subs 2x aq hdc3 12 speakers 8x sound stream 8inch pro 6x crescendo audio pwx 4 super tweeters audiopipe electrical 3 batteries 2 runs of 0 gauge stock alt (need ho alt badly)
  7. Well guys finally starting my build i got the subs in and the wood just trying to figure out how to do this box i will have pics on the design tonight i am just having trouble with the port. XS power D3400 Coming in the mail soon and not sure on what amp yet ether crescendo or DC I am Thinking 3000 or 2000 RMS not sure yet. Here is the truck and please put your input in i want this thing to be the best it can be.Equipment List2001 GMC sierraDropped on 20sPioneer 1400 DVDFPioneer 4x6MB Quart Component setRockford Fosgate R300-4Audio Technix Zero GaugeXS D3400-Mechman 270 AltDC Power Level 4 10s M2SMD DD-1 ChristmasDC 3.5k SOONMore to come
  8. I've had this thought in the back of my mind for quite some time. After talking to a couple of buddies at work, they convinced me that it would be worth it and to go for it. As I have never dabbled in the car audio world much, I am not sure as to what would suit me best. My budget is around $500, and am trying to get the best thump and quality for my buck. I would be putting this in a 2005 Ford Taurus SEL sedan. Currently, I have the factory Bose speakers, and no sub. Here is what I'm looking at right now. Pioneer DEH-X6900BT Pioneer Gm-D9601 2,400-Watt Class D Mono Amp Pioneer 12-Inch 4000W TS-W3003D4 Subwoofers with Vented Box Enclosure KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit Some questions that I have are: 1. Will I be able to run this off of the stock alternator, and a single battery while running? a. If so, about how long without having the car running. 2. Should I replace the Front and Rear speakers, or if just replacing the head unit be sufficient? I am open to any recommendations, criticism, and advice.
  9. Looking for anyone that can provide dimensions and a cut sheet list for a single sundown audio zv4 15. Wanting around a 7 cubic foot box, The box will be in a 1995 Yukon so I have a good bit of space to work with as far as measurements go, don't have exact measurements off the top of my head. Any help would be nice.
  10. Hello guys, my name is Mindaugas and im from Lithuania Today i decided to join this forum and hope for the best sugestions adn coments which could help me or someone else with similar biuld So the car is VW 2006 passat wagon, this car is more like wekend car for longer trips with family or just to drive for relaxation At this point I have already done front doors soundproofing, speaker upgrade, wiring with 0ga OFC (overkill), custom corner box for sub, amp rack, HE upgrade The parts I am using: Visaton ws17e mids, Kicx pro series tweets, pioneer 4000 series 2din head unit, audison bit ten DSP, audison srx5 for active front stage, jl audio 10w3v3-4 sub driver powered by jl audio a2150 A/B class amp, custom made (from high quality mircophone cable) rca lines. Next things will be roof, boot, sides and floor soundproofing, instaling rear view camera, conecting pioneer HE to OEM hands free microphones and much more I think will be added in proces I will add photos of build that I have already done and maybe I will make a Vlog about build I hope You will like my stuff
  11. Finally started a new project im my "new" car! 1998 Omega B My plan is to keep building a bit over the winter and spring to get ready for next years car and car audio meets/competitions. This Isn't an spl oriented build as I want it to play low and awesome with a clear front stage, but I'll still do my best with what I end up getting. I'll be participating at least What I get as far as equippment will be revealed as I get it. I have a plan, but I might change my mind so I won't say anything just yet! What I am clear on so far is that I'm rebuilding my front doors, and that's where I'll start this project. The doors will house two 6.5"s each and I'll have a pair of tweets in either the a-pillars or in stock location if it'll fit. To begin with I'll see if my Tang Band speakers might work in a car, so you'll se those in the pics. So lets get to building This is what I have to work with Behind the panel and plastic Teardown ¨ Theese are the different parts the doors consists of, partly screwed and glued The glue was sto strong so I couldn't just pull the old fabric off On the bright side the resin etc. should get a good grip on this, might drill a few holes as well Theese are the parts I'll be altering, the rest will be left stock After I have my plan of attack, I'll get to making some speaker "rings" Made a little sketchup drawing to figure out my dimentions I spent som time making the first piece When it's done I'll use it as a template to make the others. This is much easier with the right tools so I made my own little thrown together router table Then I made the ruff cuts Put on some double sided tape Then let the flush trim bit do it's job Theese will be the outer rings. I used a rabbeting bit to get my desired inner diameter This is how they ended up with a little 45 for good looks 45'd the rear of the speaker holes Done, just need to be glued together Checking fitment The depth is alowing me to add some sort of speaker grille Just enough clearance for vinyl That's all I have for now! There will be updates as I make progress
  12. Need to build a box for 1 XFL1522 for daily listening. American Bass only gives specs for SPL boxes and they don't reply to any of my emails. It will be powered by a Crescendo Audio S1500.1. I also plan on putting in a .5" lexan window (roughly 12"x18"). I'll paint the inside with a Shellac based primer and oil based paint. My last box I built was pretty basic and consisted of 4 90 degree corners and a port bracing with sub and port facing the same way, wires ran out of port and no carpet. I've thought about maybe trying to brace the box more, any thoughts? Here's what I've been thinking so far. 4.0 cu. ft. after displacements 26-32hz port tuning ~55 sq. in. port area (slot port) 4 90 degree corners and 1 port brace Sub Up Port Back WINISD (26 vs 28 vs 30 vs 32hz @4.0 cu. ft.) Green is 26hz Red is 28hz Blue is 30hz Yellow is 32hz WINISD (4.0 cu. ft. vs 4.5 cu. ft. @28hz) Green is 4.0 cu. ft. Red is 4.5 cu. ft. Side Note: What should I use to seal my box considering ill be painting over it? I used all silicone last time but I've been thinking that I could just use a caulk instead and be fine. Also for the Lexan window would something like this be a good gasket? Ill also use silicone and some threaded inserts. Thanks for any help guys!
  13. GrantMcl97


    I've just really started getting into building my trucks system and my amp just went out. It was a Hifonics HFI amp I got from a friend. It's garbage but it worked for a while. It was pushing my SoundQubed HDC3.12.D2 and I'm in between amps. The number one on my list is the Hifonics Brutus 2000.1 it seems to be a good amp considering I'm still in high school so my money is tight. But I'm also looking at the Audiopipe APMI 2000 which I don't know anything about Audiopipe but I've heard that amp is decent and also the SoundQubed 1200.2 any input will be very appreciated and if you have had any of these amps please let me know how it was.
  14. This winter Im getting ready to paint my car and I want to do a bunch of body shaping and shaving of ugly factory lines. For my rear bumper Im planning on filling in the "fake trim molding" bulge Just enough to round off the edge of the bumper. I have used plenty of SMC Hardset filler for my other plastic repairs and it is just wayy too difficult to sand spread and work with. In this case I need something that is more of a lightweight plastic body filler. Any body guys out there know what's best to use in this situation?
  15. Hello everyone, i'm going to build a new enclosure for a zv.4 or 2 x zv.4's. The problem is, that my astra's trunk doesnt offer that much space. So for 2xzv.4 i have to build an closed enclosure. My measurements are these: 98cm width 42cm hight 50cm length Would you guys better go with a single zv.4 or with 2 in a ported box? To get a better touch for the trunk size i have already postet some pictures in this thread: Thanks and big regards, Jacob
  16. Alright so I think I'm ready to build my first box but I need some advice as this will be the first time I've ever really used power tools. First the specs. Single 15" Digital designs 615 subwoofer wired at 2 ohms connected to an M1d amplifier. I wish my trunk was wider, but I can't go any wider than 33" including the width of the MDF. Here's my sketchup design. six inch round port. and here's a link to the image in case the thumbnail isn't readable. Secondly I have no idea what I'm doing, I don't even know what I need. I read somewhere that glue bonds stuff together but screws keep them clamped. What glue should I use for MDF? What about if I want to glue PVC to MDF for the port? Is it ok to use staples instead of screws? Or should I just stick to screws? I read something about slightly starting the hole before putting the screw in to avoid splintering the wood. How do I go about doing that? Tomorrow I'm buying: A jigsaw, 5 blades, PVC pipe, wood glue, staple gun and staples if staples are better than screws. And MDF. I already have a power screwdriver with a TON of attachments for drilling holes. Any other advice is more than welcome! Should I buy clamps or will the staples/screws be enough? What kind of clamps? What size? I live a 6 minute drive away from home depot and this is my only day off for the next 7 days. I have to basically have the box ready to go by tomorrow night/Monday morning.
  17. rideinred

    Box design help!!

    I need some help designing a box for 2 12" Alpine Type R's. I would like a ported box tuned at around 30hz. These are the max dimensions for the box. Width - 38 Depth - 20 Hight - 17
  18. Hey guys! We recently tore down our 4th order in the Expedition, 4 zv.4 18's on ab750.1 for an attempt at a 6th order!! This is our first attempt ever at a 6th order in general so might as well share our mistakes and progress with you fellow bass heads! Our 4th order managed a 151.2 sealed on dash, we are hoping for 153 with this build! Bandwidth estimated, 18-55 htz! Stay tuned! Will update over time, (not working on it every day)! Time to drop 500 bucks on wood. Ill take em all! LIL MAN PUTTIN IN WORK! Just a bunch of beginners building a wall nothin out of the ordinary Ran into a space issue with the 45 degree angles.. Decided to go with the Corners to add space. Here at beginner central, We like to complicate things as much as possible. Well, in a sense save some time! lets cut through all the baffles at once! YEAH! MERICA! Thanks for tuning in, Current progress after 2 days of work, Top, corners, sides, bottom, and one baffle is in! more progress to come! Any and all criticism and/or comments welcome! BASSHEADS!
  19. This is my first time doing a build log, so hopefully it's up to standards lol. Recently, I was running 2 Sundown ZV3 12s at .5 on an AQ3500.1. Clamping 3218, 148.8 outlaw, 147 legal. Both at 39-40 hz. I had so much more work to do because I got 2 custom Sundown NSV3 12s, then my car got totaled. Now I'm on this car. Build I'm currently working on will be 2 NSV3 12s on an Ampere 7500.1. This is the new ride. 6 Speed manual 1.8. she's the victim lol. Everyone uses milk jugs so figured I'd use something different. Pics still don't do these subs justice size wise Some of you may have already seen this pic circulate a few times. 4 XS D3100s for the build. Just waiting on my bus bars from Ill Customz Threw in some blue interior led lights and also installed my kenwood double din. Picked up the Ampere 7500.1 from my buddy I bought it from at a bass show. I went just to show support but I had my box and sub with me, so we installed my stuff in the parking lot lol. Picked up the Ampere 7500.1 from my buddy I bought it from at a bass show. I went just to show support but I had my box and sub with me, so we installed my stuff in the parking lot lol. Turned the box around expecting a gain, but wasn't expecting almost 4 Db. Was very pleased with the numbers I put up. Outlaw Legal Another 1st place on March 22nd at a bass comp in Denver Then a video of the build in action. Def pushes some air and has some good movement for just the 1 12. Gonna start working on designing a box for both subs, may need help because I'm not the best at designing lol. While I do that, probably do more testing with the one sub, see just how loud I can get. Gonna try external port as well.
  20. Hello everyone hope all is well and hope that some of you can help me with my new ported box build for my 2 12" Pioneer TSW304R's. They are currently in a prefab sealed box that was given to me along with the subs and amp from my brother in law. He doesnt know much about car audio and ordered the small sealed box which barely meets the specs for the 2 subs. I am wanting a box design that is around 3 cubes shared internal volume with an aero port tuned to maybe 32 hz still undecided about what to tune the port to. May want to have the port external. Anyways below are the Thiele/Small Parameters. I do have experience with building boxes in the past but they were always simple boxes to fit the vehicle nothing specific like I am wanting to do this time with my own setup. I just have never used software to design a box and rather have someone that knows what they are doing help me with the design. All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks. Thiele/Small Parameters Nom. Dia.(In) 12 Qts 0,70 Qms 13,30 Qes 0,740 Fs [Hz] 28,6 Vas [l] 77,88 Vas [ft3] 2,75 Vd [l] 0,245 Vd [ft3] 8,64E-03 Sd [m2] 5,20E-02 Sd [ft2] 0,560 Revc [Ω] SINGLE 3.0 Levc [mH] (2000Hz) 2,390 Xmax [mm] 4,7 Xmax [in] 0,19 Zmax [Ω] 40,9 BI [Tm] 10,39 Rms[Ns/m] 2,010 Mms [g] 149,50 Cms [m/N] 2,100E-04 Mg.Wt.[g] 940 Flux Density [Gauss] 6210 Hag [mm] 6 Hag [in] 0,236 Hvc [mm] 15,5 Hvc [in] 0,610 VC.Diameter [mm] 40 Eff [%] 0,21 S.P.L. [dB] 95,0 R.M.S.Power [W] 300 M.M.P. [W] 1300 Sp. Displacement [l] 1,66 Sp. Displacement [ft3] 0,059 Recom. Enclosure [l] 35,4 Recom. Enclosure [ft3] 1,25 F0 (in Cabinet) 51,2 Q0 (in Cabinet) 1,252
  21. boxbuildshoutout


    your first one was deleted was that not hint enough?
  22. LukeMeadows

    9512 DD Box Design

    I just got another 9512 after my last one was stolen out of my truck about a month ago. The old one was in a pre-made box unfortunately. But I am going to build the box for this new one. I've heard a few different things on how much airspace it needs but I am still not 100% sure what is correct. I have a 2800 watt db drive monoblock amp and I have tons of space to use. Does anyone know what will produce the best sound quality and be the loudest at around 32Hz? I want very "boomy" bass. Thanks. All suggestions welcomed
  23. Hey everyone, this is my first post to SMD, so bare with me as it might be a little sloppy. But right now I am trying to build a ported box for my 2 Alpine SWR-12D2. I've lost so much sleep reading about porting because I really don't want to go through the time, effort, and wood to have a crappy ported box come out. As of right now I have them in a custom built divided chamber sealed box with 1.76 cubic feet per sub in the back of my 03 Chevy Tahoe. I've done all the research I can and I have some ideas in mind for a build. I read up on port area, port tuning, cuffing, you name it. I just would love a second opinion. (Keep in mind thsee specs are for only half of the box with one woofer, as the other side will be mirrored, I just did this to save some time and math) Enclosure 1: Box Dimensions H:15" W:25" D:20" Port Dimensions H:13.5" W:3" L:37" Box Stats Gross Vol: 3.40 ft3 Port Vol: 1.06 ft3 Physical Port L: 33.25" Port Bends: Yes Port Area Range: 27-36 in2 Port Area: 40.50 in Port Area Per Foot: 18.08 in Net Vol: 2.24 ft3 Tuning Freq: 33.36hz Enclosure 2 Box Dimensions H:15" W:25" D:19" Port Dimensions H:13.5" W:2.5" L:28" Box Stats: Gross Vol: 3.21 ft3 Port Vol: .70 ft3 Physical Port L: 24.75" Port Bends: Yes Port Area Range: 29-39 in2 Port Area: 33.75 in2 Port Area Per Foot: 14 in2 Net Vol: 2.41 ft3 Tuning Freq: 33.28hz Thanks for any feedback you might have! Open to ANY ideas!
  24. New to the forums and figured i would show off the stealth build i did. so this was the before problem is i needed to save space so i could do a trip across canada and at the same time needed some clean tunes so the final result was a pioneer avh-8400 kicker ks6x8 in the doors alpine mrp-f250 alpine mrp-m450 jl 10w3 audio integration stealth box mounted the amps off the top deck i have tons of videos on my youtube channel if your interested just look up ghostlyrich on youtube. hope you guys like it, I know its not very bassy but i love the sound it produces