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Found 28 results

  1. Its time to refresh this build log! Been a busy summer with Slam, Heatwave, Photobucket took a sh*t, sold my other car, etc etc. Here's some pics from the last build log, since the PB pics arent visible anymore: Cant fit more tire in this car. Bass squat. But that flush tho Roll bar
  2. This is a slow build log because I need to get the truck running again first. Mods done to the truck over the years 305 5.0 replaced with a crate 5.7 350 330hp 400ftlb torque Auburn Posi with 4:10 gears Shorty headers Full Flowmaster dual exhaust from the headers back 18" Dante Designs wheels licensed with the Cragar Logo. Like only 200 sets were made from what I am told. shaved door handles smoothy front bumper Stillen Phantom grill BIG 3 stinger HPM 0/1 Mechman 370 and 250 hairpin Alt, and JS 350 hairpin Alt Rear bench replaced with custom mounted fold up jump seats. Billet Dash Belltech 2" 4" drop kit Energy Suspension Polyurathane bushings Body mounts, sway bar, control arm Edelbrock performer IAS shocks 96 computer replaced with 2002 GM 0411 PCM (easier to mod) Dyno tuned XS s3400 under the hood Automatic 4L60e to Manual NV3500 transmission swap. Luk Clutch Hurst short throw shifter kit High performance distributor from DUI distributors new carpet new Corbeau racing buckets Custom center console Leaf spring helpers still to be done Fiberglass doors Vinyl head liner Seal off blowthrough Vmax Manifold/plenum Spacer get retuned on the Dyno Caddy tail lights Equipment purchased for the System so far Copper CNF battery terminals 150' Sound Quest Hybrid 1/0 70% OFC / 30% CCA 2 Power T2000 Rockford Fosgate 2 Fi SP4 15's with the new surround 1 Power T15004 Rockford Fosgate 3 sets of Fosgate T1675-s for the doors 4 Rockford fosgate P2D4 8's 3 sheets of 3/4 MDF 72sqft of sound deadener 6 Datasafe 135ah UPS batteries Alpine IVA -105 HU Still to purchase for the System 1 set 4x6's for rear fill And finally what I have for sound today Crappy $90 Kenwood to get me buy (My cda-7878 died) 3 1/2" Fosgate mids for rear fill (powered by headunit) 4" Fosgate mids in each door (powered by headunit) 1" Alpine Tweeters in each door (powered by headunit) 2 Fosgate 8" D4 tuned 35hz 1 Fosgate punch 500.2 bridged to 500 @ 4ohm And now for pics of the truck and what it looks like today. used pedal assembly for tranny swap 1 of 2 new seats Hurst short throw shift kit Performance Distributor The POWER The Mess as it sits today And here is the box plan for after the truck runs again
  3. I currently have an AQ2200D, I'll be running 0 gauge for everything, including the Big 3. I'll be running two 12" Fi SSD's fully loaded, if that info helps. I'm looking to upgrade my battery under the hood as well as putting a battery in the trunk. I've looked into xs power, tempest, dekas, etc. I do not know what to look for when finding the right batteries for my application. I'll be using this system as a daily ground pounder. Thank you all for your knowledge.
  4. build is as follows. 3 1200.4 from PURE Audio 1 fsd 2600 5 c/d 490MR 1 d3400 2 15 dc lvl 4 with xl parts 4 6.5 midbass from PURE Audio 6 2.5" supers from PURE Audio 8 1" tweets from PURE Audio 100+ ft 1/0 OFC 100+ft 8 ga OFC Singer 270 h/o alt Soon to come: 1 cockbox 20 ft 18 ft 6 ft and 6 3ft runs of shca triple shiled rcas rear suspension upgrade a pillar fab finish door fab full length batt to batt bank runs
  5. going to make a box for two DC 18 level 3 d2s on a cresendo 3500 max dem 28 high 46 wide 32 deep subs up port back thanks for your time btw its a 2002 trail blazer im going for spl in this biuld with max dim the box is 6 inches away from tail gate if more space is need make box taller
  6. Looking for more output at idle from ANY alternator on your 1999-2012 GM truck or SUV ??? Look no further !!! We will soon be stocking OVERDRIVE harmonic ballancers for LS series GM trucks and SUV's with 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L, and 6.2L engines, 1999 through 2012. This replacement ballancer has a larger diameter 8 rib crankshaft pulley on it. This means that your alternator or alternators will be spinning 10% faster at idle, which can mean a 50 to 100 amp increase at idle, depending on which high output alternator(s) you have. If you are running multiple high output units and have a problem with belt slip, we also offer an 8 rib conversion that comes with everything you need to swap to an 8 rib belt, increasing belt traction and idle speed at the same time !! (alternator pulleys sold separately) On top of that, we will also be stocking SCT and Diablosport handheld tuners. These devices upload a high performance tune to your vehicle's engine computer that increases HP, and ALSO allows you to increase your engine idle speed to up to 1,000 rpm. The combination of a tuner, crank pulley, and our 370 amp Elite series unit would result in over 300 amps at idle !!! Watch for demo videos soon!!
  7. This is my little progression build log of my 2012 Chevy Sonic LT got it 0 miles and I voided all electrical warrentys So when I got the car the first week first thing I did was Tint the windows and installed a sub it was a 12" Kicker COMP with a BOSS 1200watt I worked in a pawn shop I so i got both the amp and sub in box for like $60 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------ Quickly felt the need for more... So I got 2 12" Alpine Type R in a Super Bass Probox I got for free from my job also (SCORE) lol Also bought a 1000 Watt JL Audio Amp ($80) and some cheap kicker door speakers front and rear with a eclipse 400 Watt 4Channel amp that was going bad ---------------------------------------------__ Then Well i hit a rough patch and sold the subs and box for $250 And put my kicker back in for abit then taxes came around and I bought this This is what went into the car now Metra Double Din Dash Kit Alpine IVE-W530 Double Din Alpine Controller Alpine Moving Video Bypass Pac-tr7 Memphis 15-MC62 Front Speakers Memphis 15-MC62 Rear Speakers Memphis 15-MC1AM Front Tweeters Memphis MRA 4.480 (To power those doors) Memphis MOJO 512D2 12" Memphis MR 1.1200 Memphis 16-X03 3-Way Crossover And a video I had a problem with that my amp would just for into protect mode and light were dimming So I bought an Optima Yellow top Problem fixed BUT I had no room to put my original cover back on... So I made a shelf and came up with the idea I can kinda show my amps now I have not had time to do some wire managing because simply I SUCK at it http://youtu.be/AXAOByZuRqAhttp://youtu.be/E2-70Bz2kjs http://youtu.be/zPpksB2N8Ec Car BEFORE AND AFTER BEFORE AFTER Thanks for looking through I appreciate all and any feedback I know there is ways to better my system but $$$$ is an issue haha or Id upgrade the alternator as the first to do kinda thing
  8. just got done with my chevy trailblazer build. here are the specs Mechman 250 Amp Alternator XS D3400 under hood XS XP3000 in rear big 3 upgrade 0 gauge GP Car Audio wire throughout heatshrink and lugs crimped by me 2- Skar EVL 15's wired to 1 ohm 1- Skar SKV2 3500 watt monoblock 4- Skar PAX65 6.5's in all 4 doors 1- Skar RP 150.4 4 channel amp to the doors Amps are bolted down with socket head allen screws into spiked t-nuts fuseblocks are also bolted down with allen screws into spiked t-nuts Subs are also bolted down with allen screws into spiked t-nuts nothing moves all lugs are hydraulic crimped by me all heatshrink done by me my 2004 Chevy Trailblazer only 56000 miles on it. Sony MEX XB100BT radio. It puts out decent power ripped out the wimpy stock speaker and put in the skar PAX65 installed back in stock location modified the speaker ring BINGO mechman 250 Amp alternator. Out with the old in with the new. Installed. Took more time to put belt back on. 1/2 shorter under the hood battery big 3 done. 0 gauge GP Car Audio wire couple of fuseblocks ran starting of box build 3/4 birch got the Skar EVL 15's fitted in there monster box in back LOL started some wiring. box has angle brackets which is bolted to wood and wood is bolted to frame the rca's are covering the bolt other bolt is under battery. got speaker wire and rca's all tesa taped and zip tied down even put a fire extinguisher in. used 8 gauge subwoofer wire to subs and 14 gauge to door speakers all 0 gauge to amps. Even used that Bluetooth voltmeter that ExoContralto recommended. works pretty well.
  9. Updated System Amp-Rockford T-1000.1 BDCP pushing 1568 Watts at 1 or 2 ohms. Subs- (2) Alpine type R 12's (dual 2) Radio-Pioneer DEH-3500UI Door speakers-Rockford Punch series 6.5"(2) and 4X6" (2) Wires-Tsunami 4AWG( soon to be Cadence 0AWG) Electrical-150 AMP alternator with upgraded battery Please comment anything that could be better or any helpful tips. or any pointers. Thanks!(:
  10. I know this is not an auto repair Site. But with all the Chevy guys I see I figured it couldn't hurt to ask. It's time to do spark plugs on my 03 suburban 5.3. looking for some opinions on which Plugs too run.
  11. Recently I cracked the hinge that connects the glass to the rear gate on my 04 tahoe. I never open the glass opening, so I'm exploring my options on making the hatch one solid piece. my current idea is to silicone around the rubber gasket and fill in the massive void between the glass and the actual hatch with expanding foam. has anyone here sealed up the back window on a tahoe? if so, how did you do it, what did you use? any tips on what to do/what not to do? any problems you encountered? i apologize in advance if this is already a topic. im new to this site and forums in general. I tried searching and i cant come up with an answer. Thanks!
  12. My vehicle is a 1995 Chevrolet K1500 Suburban, with a 5.7L V8, that was made into a "Conversion Suburban" in March, 1995, by Choo-Choo Customs, in Chattanooga, TN. It was given a custom center console, complete with tube TV and VCR combo, a tape holder, and cup holders. It has nice, thick, soft carpeting. It also has 4 very comfortable bucket seats with dual arm rests, and a third row bench. After owning this thing for 2 years, i'm starting on the main audio/visual system build. I already put a Pioneer bluetooth headunit in to replace the stock Delco CD Changer from 1995, and a Soundstream DVD player to replace the broken VCR that was installed by the conversion company. I also already put in some lighting, LEDs for the map lights, courtesy lights and dome lights, with HID 4300K headlights. Here is the parts list and plans: Headunit: Pioneer single din DEH-X4800BT (future, not soon, double din touchscreen) Wiring: All Sky High Car Audio wiring. Battery and Alternator: Optima Red Top with stock Alt for now. Processor: none for now. I'll use the headunit, and the parametric EQ on the amps to tune for now. Front stage: Focal Polyglass 6.5 165V20 component system in Q-Logic Kick Panel Enclosures. Front stage amplifier: Alpine MRV-T407 Rear door speaker/rear roof speaker amp: Alpine MRV-F307 (Going to be able to switch between taking signal from main HU, or from TV/DVD, and have volume controllable by rear passengers) Subwoofer Amplifier(s): Alpine MRV-1507 (I have 2, but one needs repair. Once i get that done, i can run 2 sub amps to 2 subs. Starting with just one) Subwoofer Set up: Alpine SWR-1522D, Type-R 15" in a sealed box. (later: 2 Type-R 15" in a custom ported box, each on it's own MRV-1507.) Visual set up: Old tube TV and Soundstream VDVD-165T. (Later: flatscreen w/same DVD player, 12V outlet and USB outlet below TV.) Now i just have to figure out how to post some pics. Here is a video to start with: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kvNe17TtFg
  13. Hey guys, I need some help... I have a 2002 chevy 1500 ext cab and Im trying to build a high-end system in it. Im only 16, so its a big project for me... I got my truck last august for my birthday, and my parents bought me a HU, and some door speakers on a little amp. It was great, but I knew I wanted at least a single 12 in there. I went with 2 12's in a under-the-seat box. 2 alpine r 12's on 2 rockville rxd-m4's in a ground shaker box. It was cool, but I just kept wanting to upgrade, so I sold one of the amps, and put a sundown 1500D on both the subs at 0.5ohm. It rocked, and still does 2 months later. I want more... the 6.5's and the 4x6's dont keep up with the subs, and im upgrading the subs anyways, both my dad and uncle want sound systems in their cars, and im selling them each one of the 12's. Im deciding to go with 2 sundown x15's on 2 sundown 1500D's. Big money, i know...... Audio kinda sucks..... I have a box designed in sketchup for the subs. I realized that even with the 4 speakers ive got now, they dont really keep up as well as I want them too with the 12's, so I know they wont keep up with 2 15's on 2 times the power. I am keeping the door speakers ive got now, but im adding 4 crescendo pwx 6.5's, i found some kick panel replacements for my truck at an audio store that was closing near my house and got them for $30, what a steal, theyre like $200 everywhere online. So I want to move the alpine 6.5's into the kicks and put 2 PWX 6.5's in each door... Is this possible without too much modding? The little pods in the doors now house a 6.5 and a 1.5" (i think) tweet. Id LOVE if I could fit the 2 6.5's in that little pod without messing anything up or having to mod too much. Any suggestions or help is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys, Trey
  14. This is my first actual build log. iv'e had the system for a while just been making some upgrades. hopefully here in a couple weeks ill have enough money for better subs. back in december i bought a 97 k1500 from my dad. about a month later i found out the valve guides where pretty much gone, and a few other things. it was smokin like a diesel. took the engine apart and the cylinder walls where shot.. chips and cracks. so i bought a used engine with 117k on it. truck has 137k. anyways... my headunit is a double din jvc exad. i picked up for pretty cheap. and with a little cutting and wire tucking i made it fit. Door speakers are alpine type s 6.5 coaxs. picked them up on sale for 30bucks not complaining. subs are 2 10" rockford p3s shallows. 600w max each. have them running on a ppi black ice 1200w amp wired down to 1 ohm. in some weird ass box i got for free. they honestly sound pretty good for what they are but don't play low enough.. or loud enough. they flex the truck a little but i want more. i haven't honestly decided weather to spend the money and do a blow through or just find a nice sub like 50cal and krakin. By the way thanks guys, after seeing your builds i got excited and figured i'd start working on mine. i have the big 3 done it audiopipe 1/0. 4ga stinger power and ground. ill get more pics tomorrow, cant find my camera battery. here's when i first got it. got bored with plasti dip. it's all off now besides taillights.. yes i plasti dipped my tail lights. like i said i'll get more pictures tomorrow. if anyone has any ideas or anything let me know. i not sure which direction to head yet.
  15. So twice now in the last three weeks i have been driving my '05 silverado 2500HD and caught the "Reduced Engine Power" message on my display. This throws my SES light and puts me in "limp mode" allowing me to go at a top speed of 20mph. I was in the city both times and pulled over right away and shut it down. The first time I had just pumped gas so I thought maybe I didn't have the cap on tight enough and it threw something in my emissions control. Took gas cap off put cap on start engine and it runs fine but SES light stays on. Restart later that day and the light is gone and still running fine. A couple weeks go by with no issues now im driving home from work and it does the exact same thing. Pull over shut it down and wait a minute, restart engine and no problems. Light is on at this point. Restart later that day and light is gone and running normal. The next day I did an oil change, changed the air filter, cleaned the maf sensor and cleaned the throttle body. This is the Drive By Wire system so I checked all the wires at my plug to the throttle body none of which are loose or corroded and there are no breaks in any of the wires from what I can tell. All was well until this morning it happened again so I got it out of limp mode and went to a buddys house and scanned it with the SES light still on and got P1516 TAC module failure. I know this TB is original equipment and didn't look like it had ever been cleaned at all. 212,xxx miles and there was a good bit of build up in the TB. Anybody ever had this happen before? Anybody know a common fix? I've done some searching and am pretty sure I'll end up needing a new TB but wanted to hear it from you guys before I take the plunge on it. This is the 6.0L but I have heard of the same symptoms on a lot of the other engine models as well. Sorry for the novel, just hoping for help.
  16. So I'm wanting to put some bigger and better mids in my door panels but my windows track is in the way for the stock position. Any suggestions on how to go about this without getting too crazy.
  17. 2000 Chevy S10 V6 Running the stock 105 amp alternator and Duralast Gold battery with 1/0 big 3 Alpine CDA-9857 head unit Alpine Type R components in the doors
  18. So I recently decided to tear the wall out of my blazer, I loved it and it sounded amazing but the truck was just to small and I wanted to change up the build and do something new. So I tore everything out of the blazer and sold all the audio gear except the Batteries and alts. The plans for this build are: 16 XFL 15s 1 AB1100.1(Eventually going to add a second) 6 XS Power D3100s 4 Iraggi 270a Alts Ether 16 PWX-10s or PWX-8s(8 in each door,have to see what my max mounting depth is.) 8 Crescendo FT1 Super tweeters(4 in each door) 3 Oxygen Audio AIR2PROF550 4 channels(eventually will be running alot more for the speakers in the second row doors and behind the wall) Pioneer AVH-P8400BH 7" Touchscreen 2 SMD Vu-Dins 2 SMD VM-1s Huge Turn On Relay kit by CE Auto Electric Supply iPad center console Truck is a 2005 Suburban Fully Loaded, Just picked her up today. Now the Audio Equipment AB1100.1 12 XFL 15s Audio Technix Wiring and Sound Deadener Half of the batteries(No they arnt installed yet) Build will be starting very soon! Going to be welding a 1x1x14g Square Tubing Steel Cage into the Suburban and building the 4th order inside of that, box rise what? Stay tuned big things coming! There will be lots of pics and videos. To get the updates as soon as they are done go like my facebook page and subscrbe to my youtube page! http://www.facebook....oudNLowAudio931 http://www.youtube.com/loudnlowaudio Go here for the Uninterrupted Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/153136-ubl-05-suburban-12-15s-4th-order-build-ab11001-ubl/
  19. Have you done the big 3? Also how did you run your power wire? Went to do my big 3 and couldn't find the engine ground well its goes down by the Oil filter didnt have a lift so only got the alternator wire and chasis ground changed out.
  20. Hello my name is Kory Miller I am 17 and I recently bought a 1994 Chevy Silverado 1500 regular cab pickup from my parents. I replaced all the speaker with pyle 240 watt 3 way 4x6 speakers. I am getting ready to replace the cassete player and radio with Pioneer DEH-X7500HD radio. I am wanting to put subs and an amp in my truck but I am looking to go cheap but still sounds good. I have been debating on either 2 10" subs or 4 8" or 2 8"'s and 1 10". What do you guys think on size wise, brand, and what type of box? I would be building the box so dimensions and ported or non-ported and what not would be greatly appreciated. And also what amp. My dad has a rockford fosgate punch 45 I might possibly able to have but im not sure yet. Any tips or suggestions would be great. if you want to text me ideas that would be great my number is (269)917-0099. No spam or ads please.
  21. Hey whats up everyone my garage is getting full of pics of my progress from over the past year and I figured I would make a build log of my progress. I also thought it might help me improve my system and my audio skills with some criticism and opinions on my work. I started off with 2 12" Q Power Deluxe subs, Autotek SM2-1200 amp, and 4ga Q Power wiring. Recently I have been working on rebuilding my system with a Soundstream rub2500.1d, 1 18" AQ hdc3, 1/0 Flex-A-Prene wiring, Memphis signal cables, and dual batteries. The HDC3 is in a slot port box with a removable port and its 36hz with the removable port in and 42hz with the port out (36hz @ 6^ft3 & 42hz @ 6.7ft^3). I wanted a box that would perform ok in a daily setup and then a competition setup as well. All criticism and opinion are welcome. Hope everyone enjoy's the build log. Much more to come as I am very slowly working my way to breaking the 150 mark. Box Designer: John253a Box Builder: myself System installer: myself Pics of my first system (the 2 12's and the autotek amp) are in my garage. I will start from the beginning of the AQ build. Big 3: Thanks for looking, -James
  22. Here are some pics to give you an idea of what I'm looking for : Anyways you get the idea. I'm looking for a square body. It doesn't need to be lifted I will take care of all that myself. I'm looking for: Body in excellent shape Interior in decent shape( will be fixing up) Must have backseat All parts on the truck I'm flexible on how it runs because I will be rebuilding tranny and rebuilding/ or crate motoring the motor. Story: The wife has been looking for a vehicle for awhile now And just can't decide on one. Her car still runs great so she wants me to go ahead and get a new truck. Well there isn't a new truck out there that I really want so I have decided to just build/have built the truck that I actually want. So I'm looking to start with good bones and go from there. I'm located in Southeast Texas but will travel for the right truck. Plans will be: Rebuilt , upgraded tranny 450-500 horses 37x12.50 tires Regeared rear diff And of course you can't forget a small blowthrough. This will be my daily once I get it finished. I also plan on starting a build log once I get my hands on it. Thanks in advance guys.
  23. watsup i have a question about two 12' dc level four subbwoffers what would be the ideal box size? Im planning to upgrade my subbs pretty soon. im just curious to find out if i have enough room
  24. Ive got a Samsung tab 4. I'd love to put it in my dash, and i know it will fit, it will take about 4mm of cutting on the dash, I can build some kind of bracket for it. Thats not necessarily the issue. I have an alpine 1din HU, and this tablet will just run the music, not put it to the speakers, it will connect via bluetooth to the HU. Is there any way I can fit the HU where the factory cassette player is? I know it will take a lot of opening a hole for it, but im not sure depth wise if it will fit. If you guys know of a better place to mount the HU, that would be great, or even a better place for the tablet, that would work too. Id prefer the tablet to be a part of the dash/console, just not on a stand or a suction cup mount. Any ideas will help, so dont be afraid to tell me what youre thinking on it. Thanks in advance for any help, its appreciated.
  25. i have a custom made box in chevy crew cab that is for 2 12s sealed. the subs i have right now are sundown sd 12s. but i just got a fi sp4 18 that i have siting in a seat. and my buddie is going to buy one of my 12s so i was wondering what would be the best way to make the box ported for a single 12. the box is 2.25 cubic feet and its a common chamber. one method i was gonna do is make a passive radiator out of my old blown power bass 12. would that be good enough or should i make some type of aero port in the box.
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