Kevin M Posted December 5, 2011 Report Posted December 5, 2011 Hurry up and wait bro. Ain't that the fucking truth. What pissed me off was that I had been religiously checking the tracking info on it through Friday night and forgot to check it Saturday morning. If I had I could have them in already. Oh well, tomorrow night's project now. Put some pics up if you get the chance. You going to go crazy and get a body kit or exterior mods for yours by chance? Been looking for something that doesn't scream fast and the furious ya know. lol and no wings, tails, or spoilers. 2005 Ford Focus zx4 AMT's and Planars 18" Infinite baffle
USAFBordeaux Posted December 5, 2011 Report Posted December 5, 2011 Hey man. I was about to get the Brutus 2400D for 2 SA-12s.. How you like em? no matter where I go, no matter what I do, no matter the choices I make... I will always have bass. Ba$$H34Ds unite. Audio Modifications Big 3 Upgrade
Lbox88 Posted December 5, 2011 Author Report Posted December 5, 2011 Well here's what my current headlights look like. Just the Sylvania Silverstar Ultras. If you wanted brighter without being HID you can do HIR(Halogen Infrared Reflecting) which is cheaper than HID but is still bright as hell. If you get the part numbers, call a John Deere dealership and they have them for about $28 a bulb/set I don't remember which. They were originally made for large farm tractors and combines, but will fit in our headlight housing with a little modification with a dremel or nail clippers. I won't be doing rims or body work on this, since I'll be getting some kind of new truck in the coming months. Hell that's the only reason I got the HID's because I can reuse them on either a Colorado/Canyon/Silverado/Sierra lol. Been thinking ahead UBL | Build Log
Lbox88 Posted December 5, 2011 Author Report Posted December 5, 2011 Hey man. I was about to get the Brutus 2400D for 2 SA-12s.. How you like em? It's not bad per say... but if I were to do it again I would not cheap out and save up a little longer for a BC2k or DC2k or something. Supposedly they do rated but IDK because I went from a shitty Ultra Linear 800W amp to the Brutus and only noticed it sounds a liiiitttle bit louder but my car definitely sounds/looks like it's about to fall apart lolol. UBL | Build Log
Kevin M Posted December 5, 2011 Report Posted December 5, 2011 Well here's what my current headlights look like. Just the Sylvania Silverstar Ultras. If you wanted brighter without being HID you can do HIR(Halogen Infrared Reflecting) which is cheaper than HID but is still bright as hell. If you get the part numbers, call a John Deere dealership and they have them for about $28 a bulb/set I don't remember which. They were originally made for large farm tractors and combines, but will fit in our headlight housing with a little modification with a dremel or nail clippers. I won't be doing rims or body work on this, since I'll be getting some kind of new truck in the coming months. Hell that's the only reason I got the HID's because I can reuse them on either a Colorado/Canyon/Silverado/Sierra lol. Been thinking ahead I plan on putting a kit on but molding it into the body and getting rid of some of the factory lines. It's going to be painted matte black with black rims. Murdered out. That's what the kids call it right. lol 2005 Ford Focus zx4 AMT's and Planars 18" Infinite baffle
Lbox88 Posted December 6, 2011 Author Report Posted December 6, 2011 Got the HID's from the office last night but by the time I got home from work there wasn't enough light left to swap them out. I am going to try and put them in today. UBL | Build Log
Kevin M Posted December 6, 2011 Report Posted December 6, 2011 You get them in? 2005 Ford Focus zx4 AMT's and Planars 18" Infinite baffle
Lbox88 Posted December 7, 2011 Author Report Posted December 7, 2011 Well, just got home from a test drive and I'm not sure about these. The warm up time is kinda long and if I have to switch my brights on there is a good 20-30 second warm up period where it starts out almost black out and you can barely tell the lights are on at all. I don't know at this point if I will keep them at all but if I do, I will definitely be returning the brights and all the ballasts and switching the dims up to 55W ballasts. Side by side - HID on Right, Halogen on right HID left, Halogen right Both HID's in, still warming up? After Driving around for about 20 minutes. So at this point I don't know. I can't really use the brights while driving due to the warm up time and these are supposed to be 5000K and they are really almost like a baby powder blue that looks like 6000K. UBL | Build Log
dkindle613 Posted December 7, 2011 Report Posted December 7, 2011 Looks pretty good man. But the warm up time is shitty.. have you broke out the DD-1 yet?? WARNING: I speak 4 languages, profanity, English, sarcasm & real shit 2003 ford explorer 2 RF T1 D4 15s in a 6.8 cubic ft box 1 T1500.1bdcp 250amp ALT by Mike Singer 2 runs of 0 gauge 3 yellow tops
Lbox88 Posted December 7, 2011 Author Report Posted December 7, 2011 Looks pretty good man. But the warm up time is shitty.. have you broke out the DD-1 yet?? Funny thing about the DD1. Went to use it on my wife's super shitty Boss HU just to see how bad it is and it wouldn't even read the friggin' CD! I have the new HU sitting on my counter right now so I can solder and heat shrink the harness before I put it in, just spent the night dicking with these lights and now I'm not sure I even want them. It's like, once they warm up it isn't too bad but god damn it takes a while. Half tempted to take the good video camera out right now to make a video of how long it takes to warm up. I also wonder if it would make a difference if a) I was using the 55W ballasts, and if I was using the extra power relay that come directly off the battery, but that would be kinda hard with all the other wires I already have and if it would help I half want to just return it all anyways since I will hopefully get a new truck in a couple of months and don't want all that extra work for what I have. UBL | Build Log
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