DC LVL 6 2010 Mustang GT *TL Scores pg.73*

[OrionStang]

Just got the tracking update, no sub until Monday

[THEKINGsBACK]

So in the future will we see 2 level 6 12s on a 12k? Or are we planning on an additional 7.5

[OrionStang]

So in the future will we see 2 level 6 12s on a 12k? Or are we planning on an additional 7.5

Its a looonnnggg way off, but when I add the second 12, they will be xl's or 5's, still on the 7.5k.

[KlrStng]

Wow. I think thats the longest post I actually read all the way. Thanks for taking interest.

I tend to write long posts.. I catch a lot of crap for it on most forums.. haha

Cost is not the delay on boosting my car. I keep going back and forth in my head about the warranty implications if I do it. Not worried too much about the motor, but the transmissions in these can have issues. It'll happen eventually. That being said, it is surprisingly quick from the factory. Opening up the exhaust and getting my flash tune dialed in really livened it up. The 3.73's are factory, so they're staying. Control arms, drive shaft, and clutch/flywheel will get done with the power adder, gotta wait to see how the car loads with the system in before tackling springs.

I understand the warranty thing.. mine was out of warranty when I did the supercharger. As for the trans and rest of the drivetrain, the 5 speed is good for about 800 rwhp, the clutch good for 500 rwtq, the rest good for 800 easy.. The engine is the weakest link, good for around 11 psi boost before things get shady.. I wouldn't go above 10 psi.. Don't go by RWHP ratings for engine reliability as each form of boost has different efficiencies.. you can get 500 rwhp from a turbo at 10 psi, but the same 10 psi with a twin screw or centri will give you 450ish and from a roots, 430ish.. the internals will have the same stress from that amount of boost, given that cams, heads, and exhaust are equal. Any more than that and you should build the engine, any less and you will most likely never have a glitch.. The system will probably settle the back end nicely as it is about 1" too high stock.. eliminate that 70's rake and level it out.

As for the system, 10's didn't do it for me. Not just on the meter, I like the sound the 12 had better. And it will be 2 12's in the future, that's all I can do without a wall. Oh and the tuning of the new box is 34, but I may raise that a little after plotting the design using bassboxpro.

Everyone has their preference, but in the years I was installing, I found that a 15 in the right box can be snappier than any 8 or 10, and an 8 or 10 can be looser and boomier than any 15 or 18.. it is all about the enclosure in my book. But hey, if you like the 12 better, all the more reason to go that way.. I would still suggest loading it in some fashion.. if not to the floor or side, then build your box to load it.. you can still go 3rd order and just load it into an open chamber, if you can get the room.. Just my opinion again..

Good luck with it..

[OrionStang]

Ok, I figured out how I'm going to mount this amp rack, and got it predrilled and wrapped. Same carpet as the trunk, trying to be just a little pretty with it.

My little helper

I'm gonna get it in after the Raiders game. Even though they're suckin'.

[OrionStang]

With the amps in

That's it for now until I get the 0awg i'm waiting for to wire up the batteries.

[bre2ts]

looks pretty dope bro.

[Nine8SST]

Looking really good man!

[MrSkippyJ]

looks nice man! i spy your poodle too.

[OrionStang]

looks pretty dope bro.

Looking really good man!

looks nice man! i spy your poodle too.

Thank you guys. Its a simple idea, but it actually looks WAY better than I thought it would. Hardest part was getting it to sit right, because of that center brace running up the middle. Now I get to put holes in it for wires. Yay.