Superjay Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 lose the relay entirely...if you need a larger alt make sure you have an external regulator and keep the system between 14 and 14.5v ... never charge above 14.5. the amps should be connected to your second battery, which should be connected to the alt OR primary battery. it';s the current dump to the secondary battery that is causing the problems right now. eliminating the relay will fix this. Principal JTech Consulting - Leader in 12-Volt Training and Product PlanningIt's not about how much power you have, but how well you use it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasef87 Posted March 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 lose the relay entirely...if you need a larger alt make sure you have an external regulator and keep the system between 14 and 14.5v ... never charge above 14.5. the amps should be connected to your second battery, which should be connected to the alt OR primary battery. it';s the current dump to the secondary battery that is causing the problems right now. eliminating the relay will fix this. Well at idle the with no load the alt is charging at 14.9V. I called Nate @ Excessive Amperage who I purchased the alt from and he said #1 in 20 yrs of making alts he has never heard of anyone wirring amp directly to the alt. and #2 that because the amp is wired directly to it, it could be causing the alt and computer system to think it has a more constant drain so it is making it charge higher than normal. But that the Alt voltage should be completely regulated by the computer unless I have a external bypass requlator, which is says r normally only used to turn up the power becuz the computer won't let it charge high without a bypass of some kind. I realize this might not be the issue that caused the computer to fry cause based on my replies on this forum the Relay seems to be the culprit. This was just another issue I wanted to check. Also SuperJay if i eliminate the relay are you taking back what you previously said about needing the "floating system".? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superjay Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 I have used a floating system in the past. I did this when I was charging at VERY high current levels...like over 500amps for the audio system. This was to protect the sensitive electrical system found in MOPAR vehicles now. I think, if you keep the voltage at a manageable level you won't have any further issues. and, yes, eliminate the relay. those things have caused me nothing but problems on modern vehicles Principal JTech Consulting - Leader in 12-Volt Training and Product PlanningIt's not about how much power you have, but how well you use it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasef87 Posted March 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 I have used a floating system in the past. I did this when I was charging at VERY high current levels...like over 500amps for the audio system. This was to protect the sensitive electrical system found in MOPAR vehicles now. I think, if you keep the voltage at a manageable level you won't have any further issues. and, yes, eliminate the relay. those things have caused me nothing but problems on modern vehicles Well i only have a 250 amp alt so maybe the floating system won't be needed. I was curious if you agree with what the Alt guy told me. That the computer should regulate the voltage the alt charges at. And that hooking the amp up directly to it would cause it to think it has more load on it therefor making it charge at the higher rate of 14.9. So in theory.... in between the current dump from the isolator and the alt charging high from the amps extra load...it could be causing that power dump to be even greater.? Right.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superjay Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 the voltage coming from the alt is probably around 15.4v. The computer should make an effort to regulate to 14.4v. if the voltage and current are too high the computer can't handle it and blows...that's why I think you need an external regulator that goes in series before the factory computer. Principal JTech Consulting - Leader in 12-Volt Training and Product PlanningIt's not about how much power you have, but how well you use it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasef87 Posted March 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 the voltage coming from the alt is probably around 15.4v. The computer should make an effort to regulate to 14.4v. if the voltage and current are too high the computer can't handle it and blows...that's why I think you need an external regulator that goes in series before the factory computer. Thanks SuperJay for all your help. I will let you know what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purplehaze Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 the voltage coming from the alt is probably around 15.4v. The computer should make an effort to regulate to 14.4v. if the voltage and current are too high the computer can't handle it and blows...that's why I think you need an external regulator that goes in series before the factory computer. Man I am no professional electrician, but I have to say, I think you are wrong. I see people running at 15v ALL DAY, no problems. Hell, mechman even sells adjustable voltage modules so you can set it where ever you want. And why would it be such a problem on this guys ride, but not others w/ similar setups? All cars get an 18v surge test from the factory, so why would 1 extra volt (or less) cause these problems on it's own? I still believe the problem is in the install, and if it was done right, w/o the isolator, and w/ a new computer, it would be fine. But that's just my opinion, I think you guys are thinking TOO hard! Kickin' Cruiser Seller Feedback Stage 3 Dash, Door Panels,4th Order wall 4 - 15'son a DC 5.0K 2 DC 5.0K'sSolo X 15 (v.2) Sub Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo_frog Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 You seem to be making it much harder than it is.. I have a 2006 and I installed everything like normal. I have no problems. Ditch the isolator, run the alt to primary battery, primary to secondary battery, upgrade the wiring under the hood (leaving the stock wiring from the alt also) and you'll be fine. Somehow, they screwed it up. I wired my whole system and new alt in a few hours with no issues. I can post some pics if needed. They screwed something up and should pay. Yes please post some pics so I can check it out. I saw the ones you posted but can you show more of how you have the alt wired into the jeep and your primary batt and how you changed your 12v coming out of the fuse box. And how large is your HO alt and what does it charge at idle.? I'm trying to figure out if that was the problem. The alt I purchased is charging about 14.9 just idling with no load on it and I haven't been able to check it with a load or with the rpms up around 2,000. If the HO alt is the problem/defective I wouldn't feel right trying to make the install guy foot the bill. Pm me your number man. I see your problem, but I have a hard time typing on my phone on the forum. Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 the voltage coming from the alt is probably around 15.4v. The computer should make an effort to regulate to 14.4v. if the voltage and current are too high the computer can't handle it and blows...that's why I think you need an external regulator that goes in series before the factory computer. Man I am no professional electrician, but I have to say, I think you are wrong. I see people running at 15v ALL DAY, no problems. Hell, mechman even sells adjustable voltage modules so you can set it where ever you want. And why would it be such a problem on this guys ride, but not others w/ similar setups? All cars get an 18v surge test from the factory, so why would 1 extra volt (or less) cause these problems on it's own? I still believe the problem is in the install, and if it was done right, w/o the isolator, and w/ a new computer, it would be fine. But that's just my opinion, I think you guys are thinking TOO hard! because its a daimler chrysler vehicle. and daimler chrysler vehicles are absolute hell to do anything on. Multiplexed everything. Ever do an alarm in one? If not you wouldn't understand. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasef87 Posted March 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 the voltage coming from the alt is probably around 15.4v. The computer should make an effort to regulate to 14.4v. if the voltage and current are too high the computer can't handle it and blows...that's why I think you need an external regulator that goes in series before the factory computer. Man I am no professional electrician, but I have to say, I think you are wrong. I see people running at 15v ALL DAY, no problems. Hell, mechman even sells adjustable voltage modules so you can set it where ever you want. And why would it be such a problem on this guys ride, but not others w/ similar setups? All cars get an 18v surge test from the factory, so why would 1 extra volt (or less) cause these problems on it's own? I still believe the problem is in the install, and if it was done right, w/o the isolator, and w/ a new computer, it would be fine. But that's just my opinion, I think you guys are thinking TOO hard! Yesterday I tried to tell the install guy that I thought it was the isolator and he basically laughed me out the door. I do agree with you about the 1 extra volt and I honestly do not think the Alt is the problem. The install guy of course does though because I supplied it. Is there any way I can prove that the isolator is the problem, like a test.? Without just taking it out and risking popping another $900 computer. This installer is being a real dick about this whole thing and says if I can't prove it's his fault and not the alt then he is not paying. He claims that there is no way a isolator can fry a computer cause all it does is open and close the circuit. So IDK..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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