TeamHT Posted April 2, 2011 Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 my only question, is why is this even a question? if you really feel the need to throw 3500 watts at something, get something that will handle it. why push a driver to its mechanical limits decreasing efficiency and increasing heat just to throw 3500 watts? i dont get it... Quote Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurfectlyInsane Posted April 2, 2011 Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 But with your test unless you list every detail, there could possibly be a million variables. Did you have a clamp and oscope the whole time, to make sure the same power as supplied? Also, box size, tuning, abient air tempature could play effect. Excursion, frequency, and impedance. The list goes on and on. Its not that I'm saying your test was invalid,just its possible the results aren't universal. And really can't be look at a real test for everybody. Honestly, if this sub can handle 3500rms for 3 mins, it should be almost impossible to break one at rated RMS. Which I'm sure people have before. Like I said, this really doesn't have nothing to do with the sub in question. Just to make sure the wrong people don't misread the info. I really dont care what someone says. Most people dont have a clue what there doing when they start asking limits of any woofer a question. The very best just try for themselves. I know im at 95% maxed out with the current power. And thats the only person that matters to me. Ive seen people smoke XLs and LVL 5's on 1500watts..But its not a sub failure more users being dumbasses. Alway easier to blame the company from there stupidity. That is exactly my point. Yet my first post when I said something similar, somebody said my post was useless. And they "can't" blame the company. I just didn't think it was wise to openly say the real limits of XL. A PM to a few people you think aint retards, sure. That is all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windowtinter Posted April 2, 2011 Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 have a customer with about 3-3.5k (2-bb2400 strapped @1ohm) on a 15"xl for over a year now it was @2ohm for a bout six months and we reconed for a 1ohm load and the 2ohm coil was perfect. Be warned as been stated before they dont mind a clean 3kish but DO NOT LIKE 3kish clipped and there is a very fine line between the two, basically dont do it unless you scope it and have good voltage! only xl coil i have seen go down on a correct setup was 2xl's on a SD8k with a full clip enough to shut the amp down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurfectlyInsane Posted April 2, 2011 Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 You also have to figure impedance. Below 1ohm is way harder on the coil wire and tinsels than higher impedances if its the same power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsmoov777 Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 this guy knows it all^^^. if you dont want to push a sub to its limits then dont. if you do then thats on you. yall like to argue....whew lol. what works for some doesnt work for others...... Quote 2011 Chevy Tahoe HU - Alpine W530 Wire - NVX (1/0 Envy Flex) Amps - 2 DC Audio 5ks Subs - 2 DC Audio XL18s Alternators - Mechman (270a + stock) Batts - 1 D3400 (front) + 4 D2700s (rear) Bussbars - Toolmaker Mids - ??? Tweets - NVX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swaggasaur Posted April 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 my only question, is why is this even a question? if you really feel the need to throw 3500 watts at something, get something that will handle it. why push a driver to its mechanical limits decreasing efficiency and increasing heat just to throw 3500 watts? i dont get it... Because I dont have money that just falls out of the sky into my wallet, I want to get the most out of my subs, but if it's too much, it's too much. this whole thread was a waste because people have to be hard asses and know it all. Not saying you HT. Is it really that hard to say "yes, but it's not recommended". Instead I need a whole fucking lecture on how people are dumb and blow lvl 5's on low power. Jesus Christ.. Quote BHE Wall Build TEAM DC Audio TEAM XS POWER1986 Monte Carlo KMC Nova's 20"4 DC XL's W/ PSI Recones2 DC 5k'sPioneer PRS 8010 Audio Technix 6 XS Power D3100's 1 XS Power D3400 Mechman 220a Alternator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 ^^ I just scanned this thread, and from what I read it sounded like they were looking out for you. I think they used the level 5 example to show how easy it is to blow a sub on/below its rated rms, let along over twice the rms. Quote On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHT Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 If money is an issue then why throw 3500 watts to a driver? I'm just saying regardless of enclosure and clamped power, it will be pushed to near its limit...and then pushed like that daily. If money was an issue split the power giving them like 2000-2500 a piece. Quote Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The A Team Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 I'm sure I'll get corrected but clay from the A team has done a ton and I mean a TON of testing with the XLs and supposedly a stock XL can take 3K with the right box and user... Supposedly anything above 3K just generates heat..... An jeff is running close to 5k on each of his (2 1100.1s on 4 XLs) but he's got an upgraded spider pack (assortment of soft and mediums) that if Iirc was advised by clay... You are correct, TONS of testing on XLs! I have pushed these subs to their limits on every end. But remember install plays the biggest role in whether the sub will take 1500 rms or 3500 rms. Most import thing to remember right there. I still see the TL as the best method to setting gains and knowing the limit of your system. It makes perfect sense that on music if you keep adding power and are not getting any louder, it is simply wasted to heat and potentially hazardous to the sub. So if at 2500 rms you are no louder then at 3000 rms why feed the sub 3000? With that each system will be different so thats the biggest variable still on power handling. As far as mechanical handling it to is greatly effected by the install as is everything. Extra spiders and spider configurations will work better in different enclosures. The bottom line and the KEY is to do your own testing and find what works, and the limits of you system as a whole. Once you know the limits, PLAY WITH IN THEM!!! Simple. But if you want to have fun do what i do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The A Team Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 These are some of my tests. Obviously much more then 3500 rms....... And these are not even as solid as the newer versions. And free air very hard on mechanical parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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