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For your fuses make sure you have a fuse on BOTH SIDES of the power wire going from the front to rear batteries and on both sides of the power wire going from the one d3100 to the other d3100. If you fail to do this you can short out your wire, blow one of the fuses but all the power on that other side of the wire will keep flowing and burn your car right up. Take it from the guy who didnt do that and almost lost his car. lol.

As for grounding the amp to the battery directly. I have done both grounding to the battery and then grounding to the chassis with the same amp, box, alt, subs, everything and didnt notice any difference other than it was easier to do. Im going to have 4 power wires going right to the positive of my rear battery and 4 going to the ground of the battery. If you try to put 3 of those grounds which are my 3 amps onto a grounding point of the vehicle it would be a lot harder to do than to just go to the battery. I find it easier to go to the battery and do it than to the grounding point.

so your saying i could give each d3100 its own chasis ground but it wont be nesscary?

but as for the left d3100 + goin to the right d3100 + it should be fused? and also does the left d3100 have to ran to the d1200? since i already ran it do the right d3100 so im assuming the alt is goin charge all 3? or ethier way its still better to run both d3100 to the d1200 in the front?

updated picture if i did these correctly smd1.png

Edited by KnockinthaStreetzof608

CAR

-2005 Ford Mustang (Legand Lime)

H/U

-Pioneer avh 3200dvd

Amps

2 AQ 3500d.1s strapped 1ohm daily .25burps

1Sundown Audio 100.4

1 Sundown Audio 125.2

Subs

4 AQ HDC'4s 12's

Mids and highs

4 Sundown Neo Pro 8s

2 AQ Super Tweeters

Electronical

Mechman 270 unit

1 D3400

2 D3100's

WALLED!

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For your fuses make sure you have a fuse on BOTH SIDES of the power wire going from the front to rear batteries and on both sides of the power wire going from the one d3100 to the other d3100. If you fail to do this you can short out your wire, blow one of the fuses but all the power on that other side of the wire will keep flowing and burn your car right up. Take it from the guy who didnt do that and almost lost his car. lol.

As for grounding the amp to the battery directly. I have done both grounding to the battery and then grounding to the chassis with the same amp, box, alt, subs, everything and didnt notice any difference other than it was easier to do. Im going to have 4 power wires going right to the positive of my rear battery and 4 going to the ground of the battery. If you try to put 3 of those grounds which are my 3 amps onto a grounding point of the vehicle it would be a lot harder to do than to just go to the battery. I find it easier to go to the battery and do it than to the grounding point.

so your saying i could give each d3100 its own chasis ground but it wont be nesscary?

but as for the left d3100 + goin to the right d3100 + it should be fused? and also does the left d3100 have to ran to the d1200? since i already ran it do the right d3100 so im assuming the alt is goin charge all 3? or ethier way its still better to run both d3100 to the d1200 in the front?

For grounding your d3100's you MUST ground it to your chassis. If you dont ground it to your chassis or to any negative terminal of your cars alternator or frame then your amps will be running straight off battery power and will die and fuck your amps up. What id do is to do this... For your amps, take the grounds on them and hook them on top of the negative terminals of the batteries. And have a ground wire going from your negative terminals of your batteries to the frame of your vehicle.

Just by hooking your positive wire from the front battery to your rear battery wont charge the rear batteries up at all since its not a completed circuit. You need to complete the circuit by grounding each battery in the rear to your frame.

Now for the positive wire going from the d3100 on the left to the d3100 on the right you need to fuse the wire on both sides. So put a fuse about 1-2 feet away from the positive terminal of the left d3100 and put another fuse 1-2 feet away from the positive terminal of your d3100 on the right. The point in doing this is so if for example i slice your positive wire going from the left 3100 to the right 3100 and it touches a ground point of your vehicle it will stop the power flow between the wire. If you use only one fuse, then that one fuse after a little while will blow but all the power on the un-fused side will keep flowing and flowing and flowing until you run out of juice and for a d3100 thats a shit load of power.

And finally for your left d3100 you do not need to hook that to your d1200. Theres no point in that. Just connect the positive wire of your left d3100 to the positive terminal of your right d3100 and fuse it on both sides and call it a day. Then for both the d3100's just ground them to your chassis. It is better to have a second power wire going from front to back or if possible get a dedicated ground wire since grounding your frame is only going to allow so much power to go through it all. What im going to do this summer (as much it was a pain in my ass to run a power wire through the firewall) im going to get a dedicated ground wire going from the negative terminal of my front battery in the engine to the negative terminal of my rear battery. This should help current travel a lot better since its a direct ground to your vital electronics.

If you want i can draw you a better diagram and show you what you should do if you want?

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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For your fuses make sure you have a fuse on BOTH SIDES of the power wire going from the front to rear batteries and on both sides of the power wire going from the one d3100 to the other d3100. If you fail to do this you can short out your wire, blow one of the fuses but all the power on that other side of the wire will keep flowing and burn your car right up. Take it from the guy who didnt do that and almost lost his car. lol.

As for grounding the amp to the battery directly. I have done both grounding to the battery and then grounding to the chassis with the same amp, box, alt, subs, everything and didnt notice any difference other than it was easier to do. Im going to have 4 power wires going right to the positive of my rear battery and 4 going to the ground of the battery. If you try to put 3 of those grounds which are my 3 amps onto a grounding point of the vehicle it would be a lot harder to do than to just go to the battery. I find it easier to go to the battery and do it than to the grounding point.

so your saying i could give each d3100 its own chasis ground but it wont be nesscary?

but as for the left d3100 + goin to the right d3100 + it should be fused? and also does the left d3100 have to ran to the d1200? since i already ran it do the right d3100 so im assuming the alt is goin charge all 3? or ethier way its still better to run both d3100 to the d1200 in the front?

For grounding your d3100's you MUST ground it to your chassis. If you dont ground it to your chassis or to any negative terminal of your cars alternator or frame then your amps will be running straight off battery power and will die and fuck your amps up. What id do is to do this... For your amps, take the grounds on them and hook them on top of the negative terminals of the batteries. And have a ground wire going from your negative terminals of your batteries to the frame of your vehicle.

Just by hooking your positive wire from the front battery to your rear battery wont charge the rear batteries up at all since its not a completed circuit. You need to complete the circuit by grounding each battery in the rear to your frame.

Now for the positive wire going from the d3100 on the left to the d3100 on the right you need to fuse the wire on both sides. So put a fuse about 1-2 feet away from the positive terminal of the left d3100 and put another fuse 1-2 feet away from the positive terminal of your d3100 on the right. The point in doing this is so if for example i slice your positive wire going from the left 3100 to the right 3100 and it touches a ground point of your vehicle it will stop the power flow between the wire. If you use only one fuse, then that one fuse after a little while will blow but all the power on the un-fused side will keep flowing and flowing and flowing until you run out of juice and for a d3100 thats a shit load of power.

And finally for your left d3100 you do not need to hook that to your d1200. Theres no point in that. Just connect the positive wire of your left d3100 to the positive terminal of your right d3100 and fuse it on both sides and call it a day. Then for both the d3100's just ground them to your chassis. It is better to have a second power wire going from front to back or if possible get a dedicated ground wire since grounding your frame is only going to allow so much power to go through it all. What im going to do this summer (as much it was a pain in my ass to run a power wire through the firewall) im going to get a dedicated ground wire going from the negative terminal of my front battery in the engine to the negative terminal of my rear battery. This should help current travel a lot better since its a direct ground to your vital electronics.

If you want i can draw you a better diagram and show you what you should do if you want?

dang i have alot more to learn but yes!! lol if you can you draw me a better digram after awhile me working on it i realized im getin myself confused

CAR

-2005 Ford Mustang (Legand Lime)

H/U

-Pioneer avh 3200dvd

Amps

2 AQ 3500d.1s strapped 1ohm daily .25burps

1Sundown Audio 100.4

1 Sundown Audio 125.2

Subs

4 AQ HDC'4s 12's

Mids and highs

4 Sundown Neo Pro 8s

2 AQ Super Tweeters

Electronical

Mechman 270 unit

1 D3400

2 D3100's

WALLED!

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lol, no problem. yea there is more than you think with car audio and electrical stuff than you would think. It takes a lot of time and sometimes money to learn how to do it right. haha. trust me i have wasted a ton of money on breaking stuff for not knowing how to do things right the first time around but hey live and learn ya know.

Just give me a little bit and ill post a pic of it for you.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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lol, no problem. yea there is more than you think with car audio and electrical stuff than you would think. It takes a lot of time and sometimes money to learn how to do it right. haha. trust me i have wasted a ton of money on breaking stuff for not knowing how to do things right the first time around but hey live and learn ya know.

Just give me a little bit and ill post a pic of it for you.

:drink40: thanks i appreatie alot pm to me if you like i gotta take my lil brother to the park,guy walkin on a stroller ftw for the ladies lol

CAR

-2005 Ford Mustang (Legand Lime)

H/U

-Pioneer avh 3200dvd

Amps

2 AQ 3500d.1s strapped 1ohm daily .25burps

1Sundown Audio 100.4

1 Sundown Audio 125.2

Subs

4 AQ HDC'4s 12's

Mids and highs

4 Sundown Neo Pro 8s

2 AQ Super Tweeters

Electronical

Mechman 270 unit

1 D3400

2 D3100's

WALLED!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol, no problem. yea there is more than you think with car audio and electrical stuff than you would think. It takes a lot of time and sometimes money to learn how to do it right. haha. trust me i have wasted a ton of money on breaking stuff for not knowing how to do things right the first time around but hey live and learn ya know.

Just give me a little bit and ill post a pic of it for you.

:drink40: thanks i appreatie alot pm to me if you like i gotta take my lil brother to the park,guy walkin on a stroller ftw for the ladies lol

rofl. idk about you but pushing a kid isnt gonna get you da cats if u know what i mean ;) hahaha. It only gets them to look at the little one and go "awwwwww so cute" lmao. But yea ill pm it to you and post it on here when its done.

Enjoy your walk and babysitting XD

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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Heres what i came up with, sorry for the quality being so crappy. I couldnt figure out how to get a jpeg of the drawing i made in word so i just took a pic of it off my droid.

This is the drawing as if you were going to ground your batteries to the chassis/frame of your vehicle

2011-04-10_16-33-26_7.jpg

And this would be if you wanted to bypass grounding to your chassis and connect cables together from all your negatives of the batteries. This is recommended a little more than the first one but it will cost a bit more and will be a little harder to install.

2011-04-10_16-33-11_609.jpg

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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You don't have to ground to the frame...a ground wire from the front batter to the rear will be fine so that is incorrect information by saying you HAVE to...also you don't need to fuse the power wire off your alternator either..just a waste of 30 bucks.

My F-150 Build

GET ON THE BANDWAGON

loganberry44.gif

DSC01482-1-1.jpg

what if they tried messing with the amps when the subs werent louder :ehh: hahah jk :pardon:

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You don't have to ground to the frame...a ground wire from the front batter to the rear will be fine so that is incorrect information by saying you HAVE to...also you don't need to fuse the power wire off your alternator either..just a waste of 30 bucks.

Umm hello did you bother to look at the pics i posted? It shows the option to either ground to the chassis or to get a direct ground from front to rear battery. I was giving him two choices which will work just as well but with a different price range.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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