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What will hit the Lows


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Another thing to think about to get low, is to find a sub with a fairly low Fs (resonsance frequency. By having a low Fs makes it more effective on the lower notes, and also have a low tuned box. Physical size doesn't automaticly say good lows. I have 8" driver which, compared to the total output of DB's through its frequency range, will blow most other speakers away on the lows. But to be low AND loud, cone area and power is important, so don't get me wrong. Just don't think ONLY of size and quantity. Box desingn and build quality also have a lot to say.

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Another thing to think about to get low, is to find a sub with a fairly low Fs (resonsance frequency. By having a low Fs makes it more effective on the lower notes, and also have a low tuned box. Physical size doesn't automaticly say good lows. I have 8" driver which, compared to the total output of DB's through its frequency range, will blow most other speakers away on the lows. But to be low AND loud, cone area and power is important, so don't get me wrong. Just don't think ONLY of size and quantity. Box desingn and build quality also have a lot to say.

Good stuff, i will look at that for subs now too ;)

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99% install is what determines output and doing a hairtrick isnt as simple as throwing some subs in a car and playing it loud there is a science to it cone area does help but if you have 2 10s and a SICK box it would sound better/louder than 2 18s in a shitty box

It may sound better but it wouldnt be perceived as louder. For SQ, cone area doesnt matter too much. For all out SPL, cone area begins to count for something :)

Pioneer AVH-P4300DVD | Hertz 6.5 | Alpine Type R 6x9 | Custom 200A Alt | Knu Flek 1/0 Big 3 and all wiring | Eclipse EA3422 | AudioQue 2200d | DC XL 12 | Red Oak Box ~2.8 cubes @ 30 hz |

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