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I have a dual amp kit in my tahoe. From the battery I have 2 gauge power wire running to the back into a distribution block. (2) 8 gauge power wire going to each amp. 8 gauge ground wire from each amp running to their own seperate ground.

DO I NEED 1 OR 2 CAPACITORS? WHERE WOULD IT/THEY GO?

BELOW IS A DIAGRAM OF MY WIRING. IF SOMEONE CAN ADD TO IT, WHERE THE CAPACITOR(S) SHOULD GO IT WOULD REALLY HELP ME OUT A LOT!!!

p300-1.jpg

Edited by big_toeknee

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Get 1/0 wireing kit and get a battery for the back


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________________________________________________________________________

deepsilencer, on 22 Aug 2011 - 17:32, said:

splzx3, on 22 Aug 2011 - 17:27, said:

i had my fun on one of his videos...till he blocked me then i got my mother into it lol after her he closed the comments xD

lol your mom is a G! good.gif

WTF, I never thought I'd have a conversation about cross dressers and trans-genders on a car audio forum.

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No need for any capacitors and I doubt you have need for a second battery either.


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If those subs are sharing air volume I hope you set the amps to be in a sync or master/slave mode.

No need for a capacitor.


Current Systems:

2011 BMW 335i

Hertz HDP1

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2002 Acura Tl
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i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch...

going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box...

Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth.

A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?

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I was told I do need a capacitor or 2, because im running (2) Rockford Fosgate T500-1bs to power (2) 12" MTX 9500... each amp is doing about 850 RMS at 1 Ohm according to the birth sheets...

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everything is already wired, so im not changing anything... and my question "where would the capacitor(s) go is still not answered. lol!

If you wanted to put capacitors in you would put either one capacitor behind the distribution block or one for each amp after the distribution block.

The main thing that people are saying is that a capacitor will cause a higher strain on your presumingly stock electrical system; regarding your battery and alternator.

If you are concerned about light dimming or not having the power response you want I would say upgrade your battery up front and do a big 3 upgrade. That will help out enough for a system that is i'm guessing running about 1000 watts tops?

Also, what kind of car is this? the stock alternator can tell us a lot about what you may need to do..

Edited by dubknight

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I was told I do need a capacitor or 2, because im running (2) Rockford Fosgate T500-1bs to power (2) 12" MTX 9500... each amp is doing about 850 RMS at 1 Ohm according to the birth sheets...

I don't think you are hearing us. We are not best buy. We are people that know our shit. You don't need a cap. If anything, you can throw in a smaller seconday battery in the back. But with those amps, you really don't need another battery as long as you have a decent agm sealed battery up front.


Pioneer AVH-P4300DVD | Hertz 6.5 | Alpine Type R 6x9 | Custom 200A Alt | Knu Flek 1/0 Big 3 and all wiring | Eclipse EA3422 | AudioQue 2200d | DC XL 12 | Red Oak Box ~2.8 cubes @ 30 hz |

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i also have a setup similar to that but i just put a kinetic 1400 in the back...you should just put a second battery in the back if you want...screw caps lol


id rather listen to no music than music without bass-zayres29

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