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00 Durango - build log ending. starting new one with the rebuild...


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Posted

Just read the whole thing across the last hour looks great so far. I need to go to a local junk yard and get some spare interior parts so I can do some custom stuff inside. For your box definitely have more port area the next time around. As far as those rear vents go I think it would make sense to leave them there because in most vehicles the overall score is louder when a window or something is open/down. So in theory that should fall into the same concept. Maybe a more experienced guy can concur or disagree with me on that but that is my .02 on that. Make sure you aren't choking your port by having it too close to the hatch too. Everything else in the car looks real nice though. Do you have any tips/tricks for debadging? My blazer is too run of the mill and I want to change it a little cosmetically. Also did you just wire the leds straight to the + and - of the stock bulb location on those green interior lights?

"The strongest reason for people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government." -- (Thomas Jefferson)

Posted

Awesome build, really like the color choice. Check out partsexpress.com for some cold cathode lights. They have green ones that I have under my dash and they are damn brite!! Cheap too! Just a suggestion, it looks like your alt cable is going to the computer first than aniyher cable from your computer to the battery. If you go straight from the alt to the battery, you may see in increase. Worth trying atleast.

i have led's that im going to try out first. but ive seen those ones on there. and i did change up the wires from the alt to go strait to the battery then another just to the fuses. and it gave me a .1-.2 volt increase.

Just read the whole thing across the last hour looks great so far. I need to go to a local junk yard and get some spare interior parts so I can do some custom stuff inside. For your box definitely have more port area the next time around. As far as those rear vents go I think it would make sense to leave them there because in most vehicles the overall score is louder when a window or something is open/down. So in theory that should fall into the same concept. Maybe a more experienced guy can concur or disagree with me on that but that is my .02 on that. Make sure you aren't choking your port by having it too close to the hatch too. Everything else in the car looks real nice though. Do you have any tips/tricks for debadging? My blazer is too run of the mill and I want to change it a little cosmetically. Also did you just wire the leds straight to the + and - of the stock bulb location on those green interior lights?

it didnt make a difference in my car to seal up the back on the spl meter, it only made the rattling noise go down some haha.. and ill be building another box next year sometime for 4 15's.... as for debadging, use a heatgun and a plastic razorblade or hard card to peal off the badges. just be careful with the heatgun. and yeah, the led's i put in are 12v rated so i just soldered the wires on and epoxied them in.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

still working on getting pics of stuff ive done, but its been below 30 degrees here everyday so work on the car is going slow and i dont have daylight to show it off very well. but here is what i do have pictures of.

got it tinted, 5 in back 35 on front windows and 20 for the windshield strip. (not legal tint in utah) :drink40:

tinted.jpg

carpeted the amp rack and put green led's underneath them.

ampsleds.jpg

got a pair of the AQ super tweeters. (door panel build coming up soon!)

supertweeter.jpg

Posted

sick lookin build bro!

Car: 1995 Thunderbird

System:

Pioneer deh5100ub HU

Pioneer/Lightning Audio 5x7's

1 Hifonics 1610D amp

2 Obsidian Audio 12's

4cu.ft. box tuned to 30hz

8 farad Boss Audio cap

4 gauge power/ground wire

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Posted

oooo i seen that voltage drop down to 12v... i think its time for another battery

but on the upside it looks like the hifonics is doing work..

i have an xspower 3400 in there right now, its just the alt. if i rev just a little it shoots back up to 14V. and the class i like to run in doesn't allow more than 1 battery.

Posted

When you do your next box, make sure you have a 12-16 per cube on port area, because right now, they will open up alot more with a new box with more port area, it maybe bigger through. Just letting you know that, love the rest of the build youve came a long way since last year.

Jeep Cherokee 4dr -4.75 in front, new rusty's 4.5 in rear leafs -micky thompson 35x14.50x15 -locker rear -Rusty's offroad Engine/transmission/transfer case/crossmember/gas tank skid plates -Warn front bumper with 8000lb winch -Custom rear bumper -Warrior product tube doors (summertime) -Optima redtop (starter) -26XK miles and still runs like a bat out of hell

Kenwood H/U

1/0 wire,

136 amp alt 200 ah batteries 12.7 daily

2 Apsm 1500 @ 2 ohm strapped on zv3 d1 with ns softparts

Mb quart 125.4 wired to 4 aura 6's

3.6 cube box tuned to 36 plays down to 23hz

Posted

started the door panels today, it took a while to get the placing just right but its looking good so far.

got 4 out of 8 AQ 6.5 pro's and a second set of AQ super tweeters.

383730_348012875212250_100000106224967_1563899_1530692104_n.jpg

399544_348498285163709_100000106224967_1565451_1364337608_n.jpg

397625_348541845159353_100000106224967_1565711_724469703_n.jpg

383124_348574358489435_100000106224967_1565865_2036949875_n.jpg

ill be doing 4 6.5's and 3 super tweeters in the front two doors. none in the back for now.

bothdoors.jpg

thats all i did today, i need to buy some resin and fiberglass monday.

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