People say 1500RMS is fine on stock electrical

[Team_DC-Derrick]

Just get the2400 audio savings is cheap and free shipping.. You don'tm need a new amp

[Sammitch0]

I heard the AP1500 only does like 1200RMS though? and im talking about XS 2400 not Kenetik 2400.

[94retta(219)]

What motor does your sub have?

[mrbodean]

I heard the AP1500 only does like 1200RMS though? and im talking about XS 2400 not Kenetik 2400.

naw bruh, it does 1500rms, like i said at the beginiing of this post.. Its the sub...

[Sammitch0]

I dunno what motor it has...its a double stack its big bigger than an L7 motor. The AP will doo 1500 but its not efficient we all know this i knew that wheni bought it.

[STEvil]

Also what size is the speaker wire going to this sub? And you CAN check grounds with a DMM.

DMM set to DC voltage

Step 1 - Place meter pos lead on pos stud of battery, neg lead on neg stud of battery, record reading

Step 2 - Leave pos lead on pos stud of battery or amp 12v+ and move neg lead to your grounding locations, this reading should be same as reading in step one

Step 3 - If step 2 is more then .5 volt difference then step 1, bad connection point, so make it better

Easier and more accurate to put positive lead to amp positive input then move negative lead from ground cable to ground point and compare reading difference. Even 0.5v is a bit much... Then you can repeat by keeping negative lead at ground point and testing at battery post vs at amp positive input to test for voltage drop down the positive cable.

My bad on saying you "cant" test this before, I meant that either you did you ground correctly (bared metal at a frame attachment point and bolted securely) or wrong (3 screws through a ring terminal to a body panel anyone? haha).

Did you just repeat what I wrote out in my steps? LOL

No, but you can claim it if you want. It'll be easier for you that way.

As to the matter at hand, i'm going to vote that the issue is the box. Smaller boxes "handle" power better than larger boxes.

[94retta(219)]

To me its a combination of the efficiency of the woofer, the cooling of the woofer and the not so nice power the ap gives. Your saying the sub gets hot. Youv never once said the amp or wire gets hot. Just because the coil is rated for "1600" doesnt mean the design is. But wow are there some bright people in here.

[tonedeaf]

If you arent seeing below 13 volts it is not your electrical.

You checked your grounds and its ok.

Your amp seems to be running fine, as I havent seen you say anything about it going into protect or getting ridiculously hot.

Youve changed gain settings/filter settings and all EQ settings to flat.

The only conclusion, or so it seems, is its your box or your sub. Box may be a tad big, but that shouldnt add retarded amounts of heat and iirc the PSIs had pretty decent cooling. I would assume somethings wrong with the sub, or somethings wrong with the leads, etc. The amp 'not being effiecient' means it would get hot putting off the excess heat and you would have more voltage drop. If you were running the full 1500 though, I would assume you would be dropping a little bit more than the 13v your running. Unless the amp is somehow just massively clipping. But at that point youd see more voltage drop and your amp should be feeling the heat too. Have you tried a different set of RCAs maybe? I would think youd see problems at the amp before you start seeing them from the sub is all.

[-Hobby-]

Find someone with an O scope. Check you deck to see when it clips. Leave the HU set to the max volume where it isnt clipping. Then set the amp with the scope and adjust the gains so there is no clipping. You cant do this with a DMM. Almost grantee you are clipping and overheating the subs. This is the quickest and easiest thing that you can check. Literally takes about 10 minutes.

I have scoped a bunch of setups and the same thing usually happens. They are disappointed with the volume of the setup at at the level where the signal isnt clipped. You think your getting 1500 watts but when you acount for the amp efficiency and box rise you are probably only going to see 600-700 watts delivered to the sub with a clean signal. The only way to get more clean power is to get a bigger amp and set it up properly.

If after that you are still having problems then start looking at the sub or box design.

[Sammitch0]

You guys AREN'T getting it are you? My subwoofer was BUILT for 1600RMS DAILY! I talked to dave for an hour last night and he assures me IT'S not the subwoofer I've checked tinsels etc with no problems with the subwoofer. I think it's this shitty non-rated @ 14.4v audiopipe clipping the hell out of it. The amp DOES get pretty hot bust most AP's do. These things are $150 you really think they're gonna do rated at that price when similar brands charge almost $250-$300.

I turned it back slightly and now my subwoofer NEVER gets warm, but I checked and im only doing about 1100-1200RMS and my voltage seems to be a little more solid. I dont think daves gonna sell me a subwoofer that cant do 1600RMS lol, he told me that if he had any thought of the subwoofer being the problem hed recone it in an instant. He's done 100's of subwoofers builds and rebuilds and I havnt heard one single problem, so Im going to rule my subwoofer out altogether.

Also dave said this woofer would run 7cft @ 27hz allll day with no problems. A similar PSI 18" off the SAME amp is having the same problem he hit me up the other day, Im not buying AP again... my brothers Hifonics Brutus wasnt like this in my jeep, but it was only a 1200.