Bumpindemlowzz Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 Ok so after my last vehicle burning down from an electrical fire non audio related im very very paranoid about my systems wiring and many aspects of whats going on. Equipment is in sig. I have a 2000 blazer 4 door and battery is on passenger side, i have 1/0 ran from battery fused 10" away with 250A ANL through the existing antenna hole which is about 1" in diameter with 1' of wire insulation protecting it. Now after that i ran that 1/0 though the car on the outside of the seats with no protection under carpet. Next i hooked it up to to 2 of my kinetik 1800's pos to pos and neg to neg then grounded the 2nd row seats mounting bolt(sanded and good solid connection made. Im just wondering really if theres anything i can do to make it safer and so i can ride around knowing im safe for the mostpart. amp is mounted to box on the passenger side with nice firm connections made btw. Another question is i like to go light trailriding and thats a systems worst nightmare. I was wondering whats the best way to secure the box itself to the car so it doesnt slide at all. [/img] 2010 Silverado 18" DC XL 18 DC 2k XS Power Batts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-Fizzy Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 I can't see your diagram. But I didn't see in there that you fused in front of the rear batts. That would make a safer daily driver. One right after the front batt and one right before the rear batt. Also, secure the box to the vehicle with a piece of threaded rod. under construction I hate People with crappy primered cars rolling on hubcaps that are louder then me. u hate c-fizzy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bumpindemlowzz Posted May 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 I will be doing Big 3 in 1/0 also. 2010 Silverado 18" DC XL 18 DC 2k XS Power Batts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bumpindemlowzz Posted May 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 I can't see your diagram. But I didn't see in there that you fused in front of the rear batts. That would make a safer daily driver. One right after the front batt and one right before the rear batt. Also, secure the box to the vehicle with a piece of threaded rod. Doing so would mean i would have to cut the fuse in half so basically get two 125A fuses? If i put one 250A fuses after front batt and before rear batt wouldnt it be hard for the fuses to pop? 2010 Silverado 18" DC XL 18 DC 2k XS Power Batts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-Fizzy Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 No. Two 250 amp fuses. It's recommended that you have a fuse within 18" of every positive battery terminal. under construction I hate People with crappy primered cars rolling on hubcaps that are louder then me. u hate c-fizzy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bumpindemlowzz Posted May 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 Also should i consider getting a 50' roll of that 1" wire loom and put it on all wire? Im i just paranoid or what? 2010 Silverado 18" DC XL 18 DC 2k XS Power Batts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-Fizzy Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 If all of your wire is inside the vehicle. You should be fine. Just check for sharp edges wherever your wire is ran. under construction I hate People with crappy primered cars rolling on hubcaps that are louder then me. u hate c-fizzy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 op: what c-fizzy means is that your diagram is pretty good except for the rear battery bank you have. Whenever you have batteries in the front AND back, you should ALWAYS fuse both sides of that wire. One end of the wire will be fused near the battery in the front, another will be fused near the battery in the back. I like to keep mine less than 2 feet from the terminal just to keep it safe. So if i were you, get an extra 250 amp ANL fuse and place it on the wire you have going from front batt to the rear batts and put it by the rear battery that the wire connects to. If you dont do this and someone were to step on your wire going from front to back and cut through the sheeting and ground it out to the frame of your truck it would short out and after a few seconds the fuse in your engine will blow but you still have all that current flowing through the batteries from the rear which will end in a car fire. And if you can, for how your batteries are grounded dont use the seat belt or seat frame. They are not great grounding locations. If your blazer has them i used the tie down cargo straps in the rear as a temporary ground and it works like a charm. I ground off the paint on the bolt and the actual hook and it works without any voltage loss from front to rear and with .1 ohms of resistance in the ground connection. Finally, for where the wire goes into your firewall to the cabin, idk if it is through a rubber grommet you sliced through from the factory or not but if there is no grommet you should go to a home depot, lowes, etc, and get some duct sealant. Its like grey clay (like play dough) and its used for pipes for AC going into your house for central air. I use that on all my grommet areas and it has no leaks at all even if i shot water right at it. Edit: for your question about getting 50 feet of the wire loom shield, you really dont need that. thats just totally overkill. Just do like the guy before me said and look for sharp edges or any areas where the wire can get pinched or kinked. If you find any then put that over it with electrical tape holding it in place on the wire. I used that on my 1/0 wire where it slips into the firewall and at the rear of my truck where the wire comes out of the rear quarter panel since it has a good amount of pressure on the wire there. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bumpindemlowzz Posted June 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Thanks. Has anyone made a battery rack for 2 batterys to put under the blazer without removing spare tire? I would like to somehow do this as it would clear alot of room in the cargo area. I can weld the batt box thats not the problem but where would it go?! 2010 Silverado 18" DC XL 18 DC 2k XS Power Batts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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