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Uh oh.... I have a bunch of peel n seal I was gonna use on my 8 18 Yukon Build next month. I need to get with you guys about that!!!

I sent ya an email about a half hour ago.

No need to go with an inferior product for such a nice build as that.

Have a question about Second Skin? E-Mail me!

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  • 2 months later...

ok so i have a kicker l7 15 in the trunk and it rattles like crazy. well one of my friends has an extra roll of peal n seel he will give me for free. should i put it back there or not? its either peal n seel or nothing because i dont plan on buying any real sound deadner. how much of a difference will there be?

*current*

1991 honda crx si

2 skar audio 12s

pioneer 6.5s

dual 400 watt amp

audio technix

db 1/0 wiring kit.

dual head unit

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ok so i have a kicker l7 15 in the trunk and it rattles like crazy. well one of my friends has an extra roll of peal n seel he will give me for free. should i put it back there or not? its either peal n seel or nothing because i dont plan on buying any real sound deadner. how much of a difference will there be?

knock yourself out.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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ok so i have a kicker l7 15 in the trunk and it rattles like crazy. well one of my friends has an extra roll of peal n seel he will give me for free. should i put it back there or not? its either peal n seel or nothing because i dont plan on buying any real sound deadner. how much of a difference will there be?

knock yourself out.

Im pretty sure the fumes will on a hot summer day.

My buddy did that in his car and it stunk to high hell.... That was one time i was so glad to say "told ya so"

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ok so i have a kicker l7 15 in the trunk and it rattles like crazy. well one of my friends has an extra roll of peal n seel he will give me for free. should i put it back there or not? its either peal n seel or nothing because i dont plan on buying any real sound deadner. how much of a difference will there be?

knock yourself out.

I agree.

Peel & Seal = For buildings.

IF that was my only option (Peel & Seal or nothing), I would go with nothing.

Have a question about Second Skin? E-Mail me!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Time to blow some minds and explain why mass loaders and roofing products (i.e. P&S) are inefficient for controlling vibrations.

When it comes to sound deadening there are typically three types of products used, mass loaders, FLDs, and CLDs.

Mass loaders are exactly what they sound like, they add mass to lower the resonance frequency of the panel. Asphalt based products typically fall into this category because they lack the viscoelastic properties that the butyl products do.

Mass loading was a popular technique in years past, but mass loading is EXTREMELY ineffective. Why? You need to apply approximately four times the weight of the panel to drop the panels resonance just one octave. I don't know about you, but I don't want 100 pound doors just to listen to my music clearly.

The other two types of products are CLDs (constrained layer dampers) and FLDs (free-layer dampers).

CLDs include Dynamat, Damplifier, Audio Wrap, SDS Tiles, etc.

Simply put, CLDs convert the vibrational energy into low level negligible heat. The reason P&S ISN'T an effective or efficient CLD is the fact it doesn't have a thick enough constraining layer (foil) to do any good.

FLDs include products like Spectrum, LizardSkin, Cascade VB-1X, etc. There are FLDs that are not liquid, but these are the most common ones in our field.

The way FLDs work is that vibrational energy is dissipated as a result of extension and compression of the damping material, vs. a cld where the energy is lost through shear deformation of the material.

Typically speaking CLDs have the upper hand over FLDs because of their ability to maintain a higher loss factor across a wider range of frequencies, temperatures, and thicknesses of the substrate. Basically they are more efficient at controlling vibrations. This is especially true when applications require a light weight solution. For instance on a substrate of say 1/8", a cld mat of only 1/16" may be required to control the vibrations. The FLD on the other hand may require three or four times the thickness, so 3/16 to 1/4", to achieve the same loss factor.

P&S simply lacks the properties that would make in an effective vibration control product.

It's not heavy enough to make a difference (unless you slap on 50+ pounds of the stuff).

It doesn't have a thick enough constraining layer to withstand the shear strain of panel flex.

It has a poor adhesive (typically consisting of asphalt, bitumen, petroleum distillates, and/or low grade rubber).

I've said it once and I'll say it again, DO NOT USE PEEL AND SEAL!

Mind exploded? :yahoo:

Crap!... I wish I read this before I installed it. O well.....

whats funny is that information was available to you prior to this post. you just didnt look very hard for it since you wanted/needed the cheap stuff to work.

You are right! With my day the way it is i need to get things done and try to invest little in researching. Because of that, i regret choosing and using using that stuff. I have definitely changed the way i do things now

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peel and seal works

go spend 50 dollars at lowes on peel and seal and then go spend 50 bucks for some damplifier and see which one gets you the best value and stops the most rattles.

FULL BLOWN AUDIO INSTALL WHERE YOU CAN AFFORD TO SPEND 300+ ON DEADENING = DAMPLIFIER

COLLEGE KID THAT JUST WANTS SOME BASS WITHOUT THE RATTLE = PEEL AND SEAL

the thing i hate the most about this website is that people come on here and give their opinion based off of what others say.

GO BUY THE SHIT AND TRY IT YOURSELF, THEN GIVE YOUR OPINION

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peel and seal works

go spend 50 dollars at lowes on peel and seal and then go spend 50 bucks for some damplifier and see which one gets you the best value and stops the most rattles.

FULL BLOWN AUDIO INSTALL WHERE YOU CAN AFFORD TO SPEND 300+ ON DEADENING = DAMPLIFIER

COLLEGE KID THAT JUST WANTS SOME BASS WITHOUT THE RATTLE = PEEL AND SEAL

the thing i hate the most about this website is that people come on here and give their opinion based off of what others say.

GO BUY THE SHIT AND TRY IT YOURSELF, THEN GIVE YOUR OPINION

I'll never use it on my shit, I've seen it on other's rides, many. Its not quite as stinky as people make it out to be (I live on the gulf coast so it gets funkin hot) but it doesn't last long at all. Its not nearly as affective as real damplifiers are.

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What I hate about this website is that people come on here and disregard EVERYTHING that has been said in a thread and post sh*t. :D Sorry if I sound a bit harsh or offend you by saying that, but that's just what you did.

I'm seriously not going to get into this again because it's a waste of my time. People who swear by the effectiveness of P&S will continue to use it not matter what.

The facts (not opinions) have been posted time and time again as to why and how P&S does not work compared to a properly and specifically designed CLD.

I've bought it, used it, and I can give you my opinion... IT'S ABSOLUTE GARBAGE AND I WOULDN'T EVEN USE IT ON MY HOUSE.

And who said anything about blowing $300 on sound deadening. Hell if I had $50 worth of Second Skin, SDS, or hell even the industry standard Dynamat, that would be about 20 sq. ft., enough to treat four average sized car doors and I would be crazy happy vs. using P&S.

/end rant

peel and seal works

go spend 50 dollars at lowes on peel and seal and then go spend 50 bucks for some damplifier and see which one gets you the best value and stops the most rattles.

FULL BLOWN AUDIO INSTALL WHERE YOU CAN AFFORD TO SPEND 300+ ON DEADENING = DAMPLIFIER

COLLEGE KID THAT JUST WANTS SOME BASS WITHOUT THE RATTLE = PEEL AND SEAL

the thing i hate the most about this website is that people come on here and give their opinion based off of what others say.

GO BUY THE SHIT AND TRY IT YOURSELF, THEN GIVE YOUR OPINION

Have a question about Second Skin? E-Mail me!

usa_render4.png

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What I hate about this website is that people come on here and disregard EVERYTHING that has been said in a thread and post sh*t. :D Sorry if I sound a bit harsh or offend you by saying that, but that's just what you did.

I'm seriously not going to get into this again because it's a waste of my time. People who swear by the effectiveness of P&S will continue to use it not matter what.

The facts (not opinions) have been posted time and time again as to why and how P&S does not work compared to a properly and specifically designed CLD.

I've bought it, used it, and I can give you my opinion... IT'S ABSOLUTE GARBAGE AND I WOULDN'T EVEN USE IT ON MY HOUSE.

And who said anything about blowing $300 on sound deadening. Hell if I had $50 worth of Second Skin, SDS, or hell even the industry standard Dynamat, that would be about 20 sq. ft., enough to treat four average sized car doors and I would be crazy happy vs. using P&S.

/end rant

peel and seal works

go spend 50 dollars at lowes on peel and seal and then go spend 50 bucks for some damplifier and see which one gets you the best value and stops the most rattles.

FULL BLOWN AUDIO INSTALL WHERE YOU CAN AFFORD TO SPEND 300+ ON DEADENING = DAMPLIFIER

COLLEGE KID THAT JUST WANTS SOME BASS WITHOUT THE RATTLE = PEEL AND SEAL

the thing i hate the most about this website is that people come on here and give their opinion based off of what others say.

GO BUY THE SHIT AND TRY IT YOURSELF, THEN GIVE YOUR OPINION

yea there ya go billly mays. sell that

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