'91 Civic Hatch | (1)15" on 500 watts 31Hz | Low Power Bigger Output

[RooTxBeeR]

Here are some videos.

http://www.youtube.com/embed/eEdRFwZszqg

http://www.youtube.com/embed/bLw_-qVVhFk

Nice videos!

Thank you!

And I fixed all the photos, for some reason if you have the Direct link to the picture it won't work. So in each of the posts I had to copy the direct link, then put it in a new window, go to the embeded, then select the URL one, paste it in notepad, then copy out the embeded url and replace it. Did this for each and every photos got faster after the first post though.

[spl4life]

nice start...

tip for screwing into mdf... PreDrill... they dont split if you keep them at least 3 inches apart from each other and 2 inches from the edge

[Kranny]

do i spy steering wheel flex?

[RooTxBeeR]

I did do predrills, although I did not stay 2 in from the end, which I now know after this box.

Yes kranny there is some steering wheel flex, its only 25 W a fucking sub and I got that! can't even imagine them running off a T500.1

Edit: to kranny, As usual in most videos, it can't pick up the vibrations, I get at most half inch, to 3/4 inch of movement on the wheel.

[Louisiana Bass]

Nice looking build mate glad you got the pics to work.

[RooTxBeeR]

Also if anyone was wondering or didn't read my signature, I am tuned to 32Hz, but I screwed my port up just a bit, so it is prob a bit under 33Hz. The shirt I used in my video was a heavy ass wool shirt, so I will try a new one another day with a normal white T.

[RooTxBeeR]

So I got around today to taking some more pics. A while back I put a piece of paper over my port and it ended up getting sucked all the way through to the inside of the box, and I don't have enough power to blow it out. So I took out a sub to get it out today, so I can get it out, and to scoop out some sawdust I know is in there. To doing this I find a interesting thing in my box, thankfully I don't have to much power or it could have done some damage.

Here is the paper.

And here is the unexpecting

Then to the pics

Wires aren't like the earlier post because I had to do a lot of amp switching.

[RooTxBeeR]

Tomorrow I will be switching my 4 channel amp from 2 x 8 ohm bridged on the subs, to 2 x 2 ohm, and putting the 6x9's on the other 2 channels. If the calculations are correct I should see the same power from bridged to non-bridged, just from 8 ohm bridged into 2 ohm normal. And hoping that with the extra power to the 6x9's can drown out a bit of the car rattle.

Edit: Once I try it, which ever sounds better, I will clean my wires back up and make it look clean once again.

Edit: Also, Before I just spun the ends of the speaker wires, and wrapped them around the terminals on the sub. The other day I soldered them all to the terminals since I got a soldering iron finally, and what a world of difference.

[RooTxBeeR]

Today, switched it all up and screwed my HU up a bit, but it's all good. Did the switching I was talking about, bass actually seems a bit louder with the subs on a single channel. Put the 6x9's on the other 2 channels, which drasticlly helped the highs/mids from the rear and sounds a lot better. Took some pics but lost the camera, dark now so I will work on getting them up tommorrow or over the weekend.

[RooTxBeeR]

I have thus taken this system out, Since I am away at vocational school. Once I come back, Will have 2 DC lvl 3 12's on a T500.1 till I get a T1500.1. Both will be CP, in a 32Hz tuned box. Will have a RF T400.4 powering a T6x9 in the back and a R1652s in the front, along with everything audio system replaced, and most likely a new Alt and Battery with it all, and Big 3.