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not sayin that this is what it is but it looks like a bad connection maybe in the wire ring. id personally just ditch the fuse between the alt and battery if your just running a stock alt

Edited by moonweezle9

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did you have to drill out that ring terminal to fit on that stud? i ask because there is always a lip left over that i file back down flat. i could see a bad connection happening if someone didnt knock that down.

that side of the fuse block looks really close to that metal thing above it. are you sure it couldnt be bouncing up into it?

the fuse block looks to be on sheet metal. is there any chance the bottom of that stud could be reaching the sheet metal? maybe only arcing through the paint under a higher load. just a guess on that one.

is there a lock washer on that side of the fuse block? the lock washer keeps the nut on tight. without it, the nut could slowly back out and give you the bad connection.

also, try smashing the terminal in the vice before soldering. thats what i do. might help, might not.

hope something in there helps.

Edited by skittlesRgood

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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How does the wire connect to the fuse holder?

If it uses a screw type where you just put the wire into it and tighten it, they suck fucking balls cause they tend to heat and melt wire jackets as the wire loosens from slight movements under the hood. Make your own fuse holder or get one that needs a terminal on it and bolts to the fuse rather than inserting it into a hole and using a set screw to hold it.

damn, then every amp ive ever used must have a shitty connection. think about it.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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did you have to drill out that ring terminal to fit on that stud? i ask because there is always a lip left over that i file back down flat. i could steel a bad connection happening if someone didnt knock that down.

No it fit over it brand new.

that side of the fuse block looks really close to that metal thing above it. are you sure it couldnt be bouncing up into it?

That thing above is plastic and the the whole holder is screwed down plus there was a cover on it.

the fuse block looks to be on sheet metal. is there any chance the bottom of that stud could be reaching the sheet metal? maybe only arcing through the paint under a higher load. just a guess on that one.

No there was a bunch of electrical tape and goop on the underside.

is there a lock washer on that side of the fuse block? the lock washer keeps the nut on tight. without it, the nut could slowly back out and give you the bad connection.

Yeah there was a lock nut under the terminal above it and above the fuse.

also, try smashing the terminal in the vice before soldering. thats what i do. might help, might not.

Could try that maybe it'll work as of right now I just have a bolt through both terminals holding it together.

hope something in there helps.

--2004 Toyota 4runner

New Build Log

-2002 Acura Tl-S

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Team DC Audio

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spl dust is an option you can get on the coils... it's great for extra 1000 watts of power

where can i get this spl dust and how much is it. is it hard to apply? lol
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is the goop touching the terminal on the underside? maybe its slightly conductive?

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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No there's a little price of white foam directly under the bolt.

--2004 Toyota 4runner

New Build Log

-2002 Acura Tl-S

Old Build Log

Team DC Audio

ttf.png

spl dust is an option you can get on the coils... it's great for extra 1000 watts of power

where can i get this spl dust and how much is it. is it hard to apply? lol
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I know that's why I don't understand lol its fuckin ridiculous.

--2004 Toyota 4runner

New Build Log

-2002 Acura Tl-S

Old Build Log

Team DC Audio

ttf.png

spl dust is an option you can get on the coils... it's great for extra 1000 watts of power

where can i get this spl dust and how much is it. is it hard to apply? lol
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its likely something youve overlooked, did you ever try and run a totally new wire with new terms and all? try a dif fuse block, different fuses, it might be the costly option but hey burning up wire as it stands anyway..

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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