Blackedout Posted December 8, 2011 Report Posted December 8, 2011 40" box, 16" tall. Something tells me your trunk won't close. Might want to look into that. I have a 31" wide box, 16.5" tall... I haven't measured the trunk lid arms in a while, but I don't think I could fit a 40" box in my trunk Trunk Build Log
scooter99 Posted December 8, 2011 Author Report Posted December 8, 2011 You're absolutely right. I forgot about that. It's like 37" between em. EEEEEEEFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF this is pissin me off! Edit: I could cut out the edge on the one side and fiberglass it or just build it in with the cut out for the arm. Then i could utilize that extra space I guess. Maybe I can figure out a way to make that back mounting board for the amp removable and then I can run the wires before I put it on. That'll give me at least 4 more inches of width. I think it's 5" actually. then I'd have to cut both sides out for the arms. The goal is 1.0cuft for the sealed and 2.0cuft for the ported right? I'm over on the sealed already, so if I notch those out, and then extend the bottom I should get my 2.0 for the ported. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
Blackedout Posted December 8, 2011 Report Posted December 8, 2011 Lol. You are killing yourself man. Try to layer your amps. Your spare tire well would make a nice place for that sub amp. The right side where you wanted to put your amps would make a nice place for your battery. Weight distribution. Cover it all up. The more you talk to me the more your trunk is going to look like mine. The design of my trunk worked out well for me. Haven't touched anything back there in over two years. Just made sure my connection on my battery remained tight over time. Trunk Build Log
scooter99 Posted December 8, 2011 Author Report Posted December 8, 2011 I was trying to keep stuff off the floor cause I have to be able to have quick access to the spare tire. I can't remove it. Has to be there. I drive my kids daily and I don't want to be stranded without one. I just think it's silly to add 3" to the floor if I don't have to. I'll get it. The more I think about it, and the more I work it, the more it improves. At least I think so anyway! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
Blackedout Posted December 8, 2011 Report Posted December 8, 2011 The spare tire thing is a tough one. My suggestion is see if you can even get the spare tire out once the base of your box is in. It might not even come Out Trunk Build Log
IBleedMusick Posted December 8, 2011 Report Posted December 8, 2011 Just an idea! I notice your biggest issue at this point seems to be amp placement and spare tire access. Well what I wound up doing with my amps and hopefully I have pics of the rest up soon was I mounted my two 4ch on each side of the trunk and I put the sub amp in the center mounted into a lift gate I made to get to my spare (I REFUSED to give up my spare lol) I tilted the mids and highs amp and mounted the lift in a way where it is slanted. Plus I gained enough room in the spare wheel well to add my batteries...when I get them. I will try and get pics of everything up on friday my damn camera took a shit and I lost all my pics and havent had a chance to take anymore. Actually I am still trying to recover the ones I lost. I don't know how much it has changed between 2005 and your model year but my spare wheel well had a lot of extra space and my spare tire fits comfortably with no issues. You may want to look into making a new false bottom for your trunk so you can mount everything and still not lose your spare. I think it would work out best for you in this situation and that way your box specs can focus more on the subs and not the amps so much. In the end I gutted all the stock boards in the trunk and completely custom built the trunk floors and amp racks so everything flows and I didn't lose trunk functionality. 2013 Dodge Charger Build Log 1996 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0Build Log 2005 Honda Civic LX Coupe Build Log SMD SUPER SELLER!!!!My Selling Feedback
zxsonnyxz Posted December 8, 2011 Report Posted December 8, 2011 Ports on the last ones seems way to small to me, as I understand it you want to go as big as practical with theese bandpasses. But I see you problem with the low tuning... And as you're on the subject I want to add another thing. From the little time I have spendt looking at bandpass boxes it seems that the "common" goal of a 2:1 ratio gives quite a peeky response, which i guess would be a bad thing for a musical setup. I know cabin gain plays a massive role compared to the lines in WinIsd but still. And as the peak is also in the area that's greatly affected by the cabin gain, it wont get evened out to easy. I have tried with just a few different drivers but I think they all needed closer to a 1:1.5 - 1:1 ratio to seem flat enough for me. I'm kind of about being good sounding, and it seems like you are too. Idk, I just want to learn more of this stuff.. And I'm looking forward to the continuation of this build STD Passat Build 151db+STD Omega BuildMitsubishi Colt Build - Alpine|Focal|PeerlessHome Stereo BuildSmall Tang Band build - 4" fullrangeBox for 4 8"My Saab 9000 Build- I'd be very happy if you cared to check out the logs and give feedback!
scooter99 Posted December 8, 2011 Author Report Posted December 8, 2011 Just an idea! I notice your biggest issue at this point seems to be amp placement and spare tire access. Well what I wound up doing with my amps and hopefully I have pics of the rest up soon was I mounted my two 4ch on each side of the trunk and I put the sub amp in the center mounted into a lift gate I made to get to my spare (I REFUSED to give up my spare lol) I tilted the mids and highs amp and mounted the lift in a way where it is slanted. Plus I gained enough room in the spare wheel well to add my batteries...when I get them. I will try and get pics of everything up on friday my damn camera took a shit and I lost all my pics and havent had a chance to take anymore. Actually I am still trying to recover the ones I lost. I don't know how much it has changed between 2005 and your model year but my spare wheel well had a lot of extra space and my spare tire fits comfortably with no issues. You may want to look into making a new false bottom for your trunk so you can mount everything and still not lose your spare. I think it would work out best for you in this situation and that way your box specs can focus more on the subs and not the amps so much. In the end I gutted all the stock boards in the trunk and completely custom built the trunk floors and amp racks so everything flows and I didn't lose trunk functionality. I was actually just playing with that idea. Would they even fit over there. The amps that are the same size are 17 1/4"L x 7 3/4"W x 2 1/4"T. I don't know if I could get them on the sides some how or not. I know there isn't enough room for the battery in the spare well with the spare in there and I'm not willing to get rid of the spare. I think I can pull it out with the box where it would sit. But if I added 3" for a false floor on top of it, it'd be more of a bitch to get out then and i"m not sure if the rack would open up all the way to get it out. Defeats the purpose of even having it in there. But if I can keep it, I'd like to do that. Gonna have to keep thinking I guess. I would love to see pics of yours btw. Sounds nice! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
scooter99 Posted December 8, 2011 Author Report Posted December 8, 2011 Ports on the last ones seems way to small to me, as I understand it you want to go as big as practical with theese bandpasses. But I see you problem with the low tuning... And as you're on the subject I want to add another thing. From the little time I have spendt looking at bandpass boxes it seems that the "common" goal of a 2:1 ratio gives quite a peeky response, which i guess would be a bad thing for a musical setup. I know cabin gain plays a massive role compared to the lines in WinIsd but still. And as the peak is also in the area that's greatly affected by the cabin gain, it wont get evened out to easy. I have tried with just a few different drivers but I think they all needed closer to a 1:1.5 - 1:1 ratio to seem flat enough for me. I'm kind of about being good sounding, and it seems like you are too. Idk, I just want to learn more of this stuff.. And I'm looking forward to the continuation of this build Well that's problem I'm sure, is I'm not good at Winsd, so I can't tell what it's gonna do. I'm just trying to design something that everyone would agree might sound good. Yes I do want good quality sound. That's why I chose the equipment I did. At this point I'm trying to maintain some kind of sanity. This is becoming very overwhelming and I just want to understand it. Its' whatever, it's either going to sound good or it's not. I won't know till I build it, and at that point, I'll know. With that port I get a frequency of 38.50hz Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
zxsonnyxz Posted December 8, 2011 Report Posted December 8, 2011 Jepp jepp. You can only get so far sitting in front of the screen, you got to learn through real life. SO GET TO BUILDONG FOO' STD Passat Build 151db+STD Omega BuildMitsubishi Colt Build - Alpine|Focal|PeerlessHome Stereo BuildSmall Tang Band build - 4" fullrangeBox for 4 8"My Saab 9000 Build- I'd be very happy if you cared to check out the logs and give feedback!
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