Peal And Seal

[goinpro]

I think thats your best bet...use the p/s for your floors and then raamat for everything else...I think thats what I would do

[w87will]

yeah makes sense to me. Because I dont want the stuff to fall off. It cant really do that when its on the floor

[Guest Nismofreak]

I love it....helped out my car so so so much and I love it....

[mrwigglezdj]

i use gutter repair tape from home depot its 15 dollars for a 6 inch x 25 ft roll and its not asphalt based and it holds great on the roof ive had it on the roof of my van for over a year and never have had a problem

[FCsteve]

some people dont like it. i love the stuff. even if you layer it twice maybe 3 times it still costs less then 90% of the "professional" sound damping material. IMO its very worth it.

[audiofanaticz]

i use gutter repair tape from home depot its 15 dollars for a 6 inch x 25 ft roll and its not asphalt based and it holds great on the roof ive had it on the roof of my van for over a year and never have had a problem

I also use the gutter repair tape that wigglez is talking about. Its made by Protecto wrap, and comes in either a shinny aluminum finish, or a white finish. Its about 2mm thinner then dynamat xtreme, or stinger road kill expert. I have both stinger, dynamat, and the protecto wrap in my car.

The protecto wrap adheres much better, It stays stuck in the cold and in the heat. It does not stink in heat, and is way cheaper!. I only pay $12.84 per roll which is 12.5 square feet.

A little comparison to dynamat extreme, protecto wrap, and stinger roadkill expert.

Here is some of the white protecto wrap because I ran out and this was all menards had and home depot was out.

[QuietCoolOne]

Characteristics of an Effective Damping Material – Make sure you examine beyond the $ per square foot.

All members:

[b]1. Mass [/b]– The physical science of damping requires mass over area. The greater the mass (weight per square foot) equals better performance. Focus treatment on the center of the unsupported sheet metal panels and work toward the outer edges (where the panels are welded to the structure of the vehicle. Too many products are “marketed” as effective damping materials at .20-.45 pounds per square foot. There are diminishing returns in double/triple layering the material. For example you do not get 2X the damping performance by adding a second layer.

2. Chemistry – The material must be formulated using materials to provide excellent flexibility at high and low temperature. Asphalt, acrylic and plastic resins are very poor chemistries at any temperature above 60 degrees. These materials change in composition and crack/flake over time. They also exhibit very poor adhesion characteristics. The flexibility of the material is critical given the uneven surfaces in the automobile. Ribbed floors, door frames, tunnels to mention a few. Trunk lids are all uneven surfaces that require a flexible material to adhere to the bottom surfaces in the channels. If the material bridges and does not get good adhesion/contact with the channels you will not receive the maximum benefit of the materal. Rigid materials require heat guns to create minimal flexibility and then they cut the day lights out of your hands.

3. Adhesion – The material must adhere (and stay adhered) to the vehicle for the life of the car. This is an area that many of the “marketeers” fail. How many times do you hear about taking off a door panel after a year and find the damping material sitting at the bottom of the door frame? The damping material must remain adhered to 100% of the surface to perform.

If you ever have any questions don't hesitate to contact us [email protected]

[99vic]

is peel and seal the same as this stuff?

it looks and feels like dynamat? but its all i could find at home depot

Edited May 15, 2008 by 99vic

[99vic]

anybody know?

[w87will]

I think that stuff is REALLY thin, so its not the same stuff. If you have a Lowes near you, they have the Peal and Seal.