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Thats how it was before, the remote and red wire where together, with the blue one I am running to my remote for the amps connected to those 2.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Heh, both me and my neightbor couldnt figure out why it stopped working, we did get it to work again though. Now my radio stays on though when ever I pull my key out, just have to turn it off. Will not turn on though when I try to turn it on with the key out.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Heh, both me and my neightbor couldnt figure out why it stopped working, we did get it to work again though. Now my radio stays on though when ever I pull my key out, just have to turn it off. Will not turn on though when I try to turn it on with the key out.

Your ACC wire isn't wired right. Your keeping power when your switch is off, when it's wired properly you should lose current when you cut the switch off on that wire. Your yellow wire should be the only one with power with the switch off.

If he's such a good electrician why did he use crimps to begin with instead of soldering and heat shrinking?

Edited by 727Designs

-Zach-

2010 Toyota Tundra
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2000 Ford Expedition

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If you would have read my previous posts you would have seen that I said he did it quickly. Also as I have had in my own experience, Soldering multiple wires is a bitch if you don't twist them up. It was done the way he did it also because I didn't have my wireing harness yet and wanted to get the stuff in. I had the red wire in one spot, and yellow in another, every time I would turn my car on, i would have to enter in my code, and the HU would be reset. So I switched them, and now it is what I am saying how it stays running.

Edited by RooTxBeeR
On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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actually, yellow is constant, red is ignition, your wiring is ghetto as hell btw op LOL and jcon, he doesnt have this, but another blue wire could be for a power antenna. op, just hit the hardware store, and get some crimp-caps. make sure your fuse didnt blow in the HU and that you pushed the power button, lol. if that still doesnt work, make sure the plug is all the way in, and if STILL nothing, get yourself a walmart DMM for $10 and check around for the correct voltage.

excuse me not to sound like a rude ass but i've been on this forum for a little while now and I don't know what op means, can you tell me what it means lol?

'93 Firebird Formula V8

H/U- Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X395

Mids/Highs Amp- Hifonics ZXI80.4

Wiring-KNU RCA's, Speaker Wire, And Two Runs Of Trystar 1/0

G34 Red Top and a 180amp Ford Alternator

www.youtube.com/TRTC360

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actually, yellow is constant, red is ignition, your wiring is ghetto as hell btw op LOL and jcon, he doesnt have this, but another blue wire could be for a power antenna. op, just hit the hardware store, and get some crimp-caps. make sure your fuse didnt blow in the HU and that you pushed the power button, lol. if that still doesnt work, make sure the plug is all the way in, and if STILL nothing, get yourself a walmart DMM for $10 and check around for the correct voltage.

excuse me not to sound like a rude ass but i've been on this forum for a little while now and I don't know what op means, can you tell me what it means lol?

Original poster.

You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive.

DC Level 4 M2 12 D2

Car Audio Bargain 1600.1

Eclipse CD3200

~2 cubes @ 34 hz.

Stinger Roadkill Expert

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original poster

Edit: sniped :(

Edited by RooTxBeeR
On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

actually, yellow is constant, red is ignition, your wiring is ghetto as hell btw op LOL and jcon, he doesnt have this, but another blue wire could be for a power antenna. op, just hit the hardware store, and get some crimp-caps. make sure your fuse didnt blow in the HU and that you pushed the power button, lol. if that still doesnt work, make sure the plug is all the way in, and if STILL nothing, get yourself a walmart DMM for $10 and check around for the correct voltage.

excuse me not to sound like a rude ass but i've been on this forum for a little while now and I don't know what op means, can you tell me what it means lol?

Original poster.

thank you :D

'93 Firebird Formula V8

H/U- Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X395

Mids/Highs Amp- Hifonics ZXI80.4

Wiring-KNU RCA's, Speaker Wire, And Two Runs Of Trystar 1/0

G34 Red Top and a 180amp Ford Alternator

www.youtube.com/TRTC360

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