Ric Thornton Posted July 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 I like the holder but I dont like the color but thats the beauty of it..its not my truck good work as always...question though. On the first page that dual input piece, whats it called and where can I get some? The ones I have here are Mobile Spec... they have a lot of great interconnects and wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotdog Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 All I have to say is Pulse do your thing and Trippi enjoy it when its done, because your going to have another sick ass pulse car audio build. Now I am just going to sit here and eat some (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ziggetyzag26 Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 All I have to say is Pulse do your thing and Trippi enjoy it when its done, because your going to have another sick ass pulse car audio build. Now I am just going to sit here and eat some x2 Lost prophets carclub DD for life Visit my youtube My link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CortezDTV Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 I have a few questions, what about servicing the engine? You must disconnect everything? And deal with all the + wires from the batts in the back, wont they still all be live wires to service anything/ plugs aircleaner etc good point, which is why I chose to do them this way... yes you would have to move the fuseholder itself, but you can access everything else around it (trans, oil,etc) that is around it... It has to be there so that is why it was chosen to go there...less in the way Aaaahhhh I see That all makes since, I thing I would do same color as engine and do the same accent color you have done everywhere else in the pelxi would look very cool, also what about a cover plate so it" looks more official" Good luck with the rebuild..... its looked amazing every time I can't wait to see it all done SCSB Santa Cruz Speaker Box Build logs: Daily Driver Lemon Marquis 2 american bass 750.1s 350.4 on 14 focal 6.5s sq 945 on 4 hertz tweeters Mystery subs http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 The Mustang 'dubbed' Shirley the project from bullet holes to badass http://www.stevemead...cond-skin-time/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BozzMazzi Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 I didn't think the H2 had any more room to add anthing... I think it looks good in red... keeps with the overall look. 2002 Suburban on 24s (2) RF 2500bdcp's (1) DC Power 270xp alt (for system only) (4) Kinetik Racing KR3112 batteries (1) JL Audio A4300 (1) Focal K1 component sets (rears) (1) Q Logic kick panel 6 1/2" pods (4) Eminence 6 1/2's speakers (fronts) (6) Selenium Super Tweeters (2) Sundown Audio Nightshade hybrid 18s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zx10intn Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Why not paint the holder black with red lettering and backlit red? 1969 Chevy Chevelle 20/22" staggered Bonspeed Huntingtons wrapped in Nitto INVO's Mechman 250amp cs144 alt w/AVBM Kinetik 1800 main battery/Kinetik 2400 in the trunk Pioneer AVH-3200dvd Headunit (2) sets of Hybrid Audio Technologies Imagine components up front (2) DD 3512's d4 coils Sundown sax100.4 component amp Sundown saz-3000d subwoofer amp 5ft^3 box tuned to 34hz MY BUILD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackedout Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 AMI... That's what Trippi asked for. Some knucklehead told him he needed 20+ runs. It's whatever. Lol. He sent the wire... I'll run it. Someone also made the comment we only had one run of 1/0 in the metro and if we added two more runs our score would jump 1-2dB. They were wrong. Lol score didn't change one bit. Some people I guess just like to waste money but again it's whatever/ Sometimes Trippi won't listen to a word I say.. Lol. So, instead of being the owner/installer that lets the customer know that its completely unnecessary, you let him waste his money and your time? Interesting... I don't like the fuse holder under the hood either... I like your posts boiler. Whats with some of the negativity towards Trippi Ric? I see you putting him down at the expense of making yourself look better. I have to call you out on it because it isn't good business. EDIT: Isolated grounds couldn't hurt either. 7 runs of + and 7 runs of - wouldn't be unreasonable for 8 0,000 watts. I don't know what his alts are actually putting out, but I'll assume 300 x 4 .... 1200 amps. 1200/ 7 = 171 amps per line, plus what the front batteries can provide. 1/0 OFC is good for 150 amps or so per line. (http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm) I'd say 14 runs of positive alone may not be idea, but 7 and 7 is reasonable. However, who am I to say it. I've never been given the chance to build an 80,000 watt system. Trunk Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siete_Cinqo Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Posted 23 March 2011 - 05:42 PM I think addressing the power delivery to the amplifiers will be a larger factor than most think. The RF amps use unregulated power supplies - less voltage IN = less current IN. Since Power is the product of voltage and current this will be a big factor, considering 11.5 VDC is 20% less than 14.4 VDC. If I were doing this upgrade, I would document the following before I changed anything: 1. The nominal voltage available with the vehicle at idle with the audio system muted 2. The minimum voltage at the B+ and B- terminals of one of the sub amps over a 10 second blast of said Bass Mekanik track 3. The average voltage at the B+ and B- terminals of the same sub amp over the same 10 second blast of the same track 4. The maximum voltage drop between the B+ terminal of the same sub amp and the output stud of any alternator during this same time frame 5. The average voltage drop between the B+ terminal of the same sub amp across the same run during this same time frame After you've measured #1, two good DMMs (one used for measurements 2&3, the other for 4&5) like Fluke 87s or 88s can capture all of this data in a single 10 second period. It's important to document this because you want a starting point. From there, you could easily factor this data as a percentage in a number of ways. Ideally, modifications will be made so that the amplifiers will see 14.4 VDC (when measured across the B+ and B- terminals) even at maximum output. Factoring only the subwoofer amplifiers here, and assuming each can make 3,000 watts RMS into 1 ohm (common), the math would be as follows: 3,000 x 12 = 36,000 Watts RMS 36,000 Watts RMS / 64.5% amplifier efficiency* = 55,814 Watts Input (on sine waves) 55,814 x 50% Duty Cycle (music factor) = 27,907 Watts Input (music at clipping) 27,907 / 14.4 VDC = 1,938 amps of current That's (6) 350 Amp alternators just to feed the bass amps. If I assume the length of cable from the alternators to the amplifiers is 20 feet and assume another 3 feet from the alternators to the frame and 7 feet from the amplifiers to the frame, this gives a net length of cable of 30 feet (not including the frame rail return path, which would have very low resistance). If I pull out my copy of Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems (Hey, I refer to it too . . . LOL), and look at the chart on page 100, I can see that 1/0 AWG (as in cable that meets the American Wire Gauge specification) is good for about 140 amps (give or take a few) at 30 feet. This will require 14 runs of 1/0 AWG cable on both the power and ground side of things just so that the sub amplifiers can play music at clipping - this does not factor all those 1,000 watt 4-channel amplifiers nor additional batteries in the rear of the vehicle that require between 7 & 10 amps each to maintain a surface charge . . . That's a bunch of ring terminals to solidly affix to the ends of cables to minimize resistance . . . Yeah, I'm guessing there might be some "gain" in addressing this. After this was addressed, I would repeat steps 1-5 from above and factor all as a percentage. If Step 5 / Step 1 > 5%, then you still have work to do, although below 10% the law of diminishing returns will certainly be a factor . . . consider where that is currently . . . *found at RF's web site on the 2500-1bdcp @ 1 ohm - the 2500-1 may be slightly different. Snafu wrote all the above. Would anyome care to debate this with him. I know I wouldn't..... Random vids of the Avalanche My link Team Bass-Hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ninja_v1.0 Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Posted 23 March 2011 - 05:42 PM I think addressing the power delivery to the amplifiers will be a larger factor than most think. The RF amps use unregulated power supplies - less voltage IN = less current IN. Since Power is the product of voltage and current this will be a big factor, considering 11.5 VDC is 20% less than 14.4 VDC. If I were doing this upgrade, I would document the following before I changed anything: 1. The nominal voltage available with the vehicle at idle with the audio system muted 2. The minimum voltage at the B+ and B- terminals of one of the sub amps over a 10 second blast of said Bass Mekanik track 3. The average voltage at the B+ and B- terminals of the same sub amp over the same 10 second blast of the same track 4. The maximum voltage drop between the B+ terminal of the same sub amp and the output stud of any alternator during this same time frame 5. The average voltage drop between the B+ terminal of the same sub amp across the same run during this same time frame After you've measured #1, two good DMMs (one used for measurements 2&3, the other for 4&5) like Fluke 87s or 88s can capture all of this data in a single 10 second period. It's important to document this because you want a starting point. From there, you could easily factor this data as a percentage in a number of ways. Ideally, modifications will be made so that the amplifiers will see 14.4 VDC (when measured across the B+ and B- terminals) even at maximum output. Factoring only the subwoofer amplifiers here, and assuming each can make 3,000 watts RMS into 1 ohm (common), the math would be as follows: 3,000 x 12 = 36,000 Watts RMS 36,000 Watts RMS / 64.5% amplifier efficiency* = 55,814 Watts Input (on sine waves) 55,814 x 50% Duty Cycle (music factor) = 27,907 Watts Input (music at clipping) 27,907 / 14.4 VDC = 1,938 amps of current That's (6) 350 Amp alternators just to feed the bass amps. If I assume the length of cable from the alternators to the amplifiers is 20 feet and assume another 3 feet from the alternators to the frame and 7 feet from the amplifiers to the frame, this gives a net length of cable of 30 feet (not including the frame rail return path, which would have very low resistance). If I pull out my copy of Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems (Hey, I refer to it too . . . LOL), and look at the chart on page 100, I can see that 1/0 AWG (as in cable that meets the American Wire Gauge specification) is good for about 140 amps (give or take a few) at 30 feet. This will require 14 runs of 1/0 AWG cable on both the power and ground side of things just so that the sub amplifiers can play music at clipping - this does not factor all those 1,000 watt 4-channel amplifiers nor additional batteries in the rear of the vehicle that require between 7 & 10 amps each to maintain a surface charge . . . That's a bunch of ring terminals to solidly affix to the ends of cables to minimize resistance . . . Yeah, I'm guessing there might be some "gain" in addressing this. After this was addressed, I would repeat steps 1-5 from above and factor all as a percentage. If Step 5 / Step 1 > 5%, then you still have work to do, although below 10% the law of diminishing returns will certainly be a factor . . . consider where that is currently . . . *found at RF's web site on the 2500-1bdcp @ 1 ohm - the 2500-1 may be slightly different. Snafu wrote all the above. Would anyome care to debate this with him. I know I wouldn't..... ^---- what he said When your at the top everyone is coming for you, friends, family, haters and even those who don't know you.. my advice.. KILL EM ALL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainman215 Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Mind = blown lol. My 02 Accord Wall Build 2 Sundown Audio Nightshade V1 18s --- 1 SAZ 3500 Sundown Audio 100.4 --- 4 Sundown Audio Neo-Pro 8s Sundown Audio 125.2 --- 2 Morel MD-12 Tweeters , 2 Selenium ST-200 Tweeters DC Power 270xp --- 4 XS Power D1200s | 1 D5100R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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