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Trying to Tune My Box To 33hz ..... I'm Lost!


dereileak

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Fiberglass the spare tire well for more space and mount the amps else-where?

-Ross

Project Layla

Truck: 99' F-150

Gathering things for my next build.

SoloX18 build:

http://www.stevemead..._1#entry1576460

RE T-line build:

http://www.stevemead...-between-build/

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Fiberglass the spare tire well for more space and mount the amps else-where?

I would, but I need that space, I am thinking of eventually putting an air compress/tank in there for a train horn in the future, and my xp power intellecharger is is probably going to be mounted down there too :P I really need to figure out what to do, because I need to get this box finished, can I have the port run along the outside of the box? I have no issue doing that, I have plenty of space to build a port that comes around the box, my main thing is figuring out how you calculate ports that make corners, do you figure out ports by volume in the port?

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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does the port matter if its in the box? cause I can build it out if it needs to be bigger

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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I still remember back 25 years ago when I built my first box, and I thought I was going to defy the laws of physics, too :) LOL

Never happened though. They all sounded like a$$, until I finally got a grasp on port tuning, vs. subs in question, vs. available airspace. After that, I just basically never even tried to build another enclosure unless all my calculations "ahead of time" told me it was going to work. And after that, "they all worked" :)

Peace,

Fish

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I still remember back 25 years ago when I built my first box, and I thought I was going to defy the laws of physics, too :) LOL

Never happened though. They all sounded like a$$, until I finally got a grasp on port tuning, vs. subs in question, vs. available airspace. After that, I just basically never even tried to build another enclosure unless all my calculations "ahead of time" told me it was going to work. And after that, "they all worked" :)

Peace,

Fish

I built the box as large as possible, I have had these subs with 3.3 cubic feet before and I thought they sounded pretty good, they hit the lows like amazinly, but the higher notes not so much, they did have a bit of a weird sound, do you think I should just go sealed, how much spl will I lose ? will my box still hit the lows really well?

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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Share on other sites

I still remember back 25 years ago when I built my first box, and I thought I was going to defy the laws of physics, too :) LOL

Never happened though. They all sounded like a$$, until I finally got a grasp on port tuning, vs. subs in question, vs. available airspace. After that, I just basically never even tried to build another enclosure unless all my calculations "ahead of time" told me it was going to work. And after that, "they all worked" :)

Peace,

Fish

I built the box as large as possible, I have had these subs with 3.3 cubic feet before and I thought they sounded pretty good, they hit the lows like amazinly, but the higher notes not so much, they did have a bit of a weird sound, do you think I should just go sealed, how much spl will I lose ? will my box still hit the lows really well?

You have 3.3 GROSS, you need 3.3 NET (I'd actually like a touch bigger using them, but it's whatever). By the time you get a proper port you'll be looking at less than 3 cubes each.

You'll lose some SPL, but if you pack the shit out of it with polyfill it will still have decent output and play down pretty good.

-Zach-

2010 Toyota Tundra
Full Hybrid Audio SQ

7" BDS on 37's

2000 Ford Expedition

160+ dB Green Turd -SOLD- :(

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I still remember back 25 years ago when I built my first box, and I thought I was going to defy the laws of physics, too :) LOL

Never happened though. They all sounded like a$, until I finally got a grasp on port tuning, vs. subs in question, vs. available airspace. After that, I just basically never even tried to build another enclosure unless all my calculations "ahead of time" told me it was going to work. And after that, "they all worked" :)

Peace,

Fish

I built the box as large as possible, I have had these subs with 3.3 cubic feet before and I thought they sounded pretty good, they hit the lows like amazinly, but the higher notes not so much, they did have a bit of a weird sound, do you think I should just go sealed, how much spl will I lose ? will my box still hit the lows really well?

You have 3.3 GROSS, you need 3.3 NET (I'd actually like a touch bigger using them, but it's whatever). By the time you get a proper port you'll be looking at less than 3 cubes each.

You'll lose some SPL, but if you pack the shit out of it with polyfill it will still have decent output and play down pretty good.

can I build the port on the outside of the box? then I wont loose any airspace? I have a bit of room to do that, my question is does it matter where the port comes out and which direction, also what is the different between net and gross?

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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Share on other sites

I still remember back 25 years ago when I built my first box, and I thought I was going to defy the laws of physics, too :) LOL

Never happened though. They all sounded like a$, until I finally got a grasp on port tuning, vs. subs in question, vs. available airspace. After that, I just basically never even tried to build another enclosure unless all my calculations "ahead of time" told me it was going to work. And after that, "they all worked" :)

Peace,

Fish

I built the box as large as possible, I have had these subs with 3.3 cubic feet before and I thought they sounded pretty good, they hit the lows like amazinly, but the higher notes not so much, they did have a bit of a weird sound, do you think I should just go sealed, how much spl will I lose ? will my box still hit the lows really well?

You have 3.3 GROSS, you need 3.3 NET (I'd actually like a touch bigger using them, but it's whatever). By the time you get a proper port you'll be looking at less than 3 cubes each.

You'll lose some SPL, but if you pack the shit out of it with polyfill it will still have decent output and play down pretty good.

can I build the port on the outside of the box? then I wont loose any airspace? I have a bit of room to do that, my question is does it matter where the port comes out and which direction, also what is the different between net and gross?

SMH

Net is the volume after displacements, like bracing and the subwoofers. If inverting the subs, you don't need to add that into displacement.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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I still remember back 25 years ago when I built my first box, and I thought I was going to defy the laws of physics, too :) LOL

Never happened though. They all sounded like a$, until I finally got a grasp on port tuning, vs. subs in question, vs. available airspace. After that, I just basically never even tried to build another enclosure unless all my calculations "ahead of time" told me it was going to work. And after that, "they all worked" :)

Peace,

Fish

I built the box as large as possible, I have had these subs with 3.3 cubic feet before and I thought they sounded pretty good, they hit the lows like amazinly, but the higher notes not so much, they did have a bit of a weird sound, do you think I should just go sealed, how much spl will I lose ? will my box still hit the lows really well?

You have 3.3 GROSS, you need 3.3 NET (I'd actually like a touch bigger using them, but it's whatever). By the time you get a proper port you'll be looking at less than 3 cubes each.

You'll lose some SPL, but if you pack the shit out of it with polyfill it will still have decent output and play down pretty good.

can I build the port on the outside of the box? then I wont loose any airspace? I have a bit of room to do that, my question is does it matter where the port comes out and which direction, also what is the different between net and gross?

SMH

I looked it up, whatev

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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You need to take away any bracing, ports, and sub displacements from your GROSS volume number. Net is what you are left with after all dispacements. Basic math/physics terms.

*Edit-I didn't mean to sound like a dick. I was trying to get you straightened out that's all. Sorry for being blunt and I hope you get it figured out. If it were me, I'd just close the box up and make it sealed and see if you like it.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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