brent379 Posted August 17, 2011 Author Report Posted August 17, 2011 I understand that trust me and i do appreciate ur help alot!!! This is something i really wanna try... Just dont need to start it off feeling like a dumbass lol
DHFHades Posted August 17, 2011 Report Posted August 17, 2011 http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww130/DHFHades/T-Linebox1.jpg theres the one I built, box was 32 inches wide, not counting the sides. subs were mounted inverted on top, looked cool as shit...got loud, sounded good...what more can you ask. btw, I did not design that box, I got it from the old t-line tutorial 1990 Jeep Cherokee 4X4 Pioneer DEH-P2900MP, Big 3 done in 1/0, 1 run 1/0 ran to amp DAT HF1000.1 #007 powering a DC lvl4 15 DAT HR 4085 prototype powering 2 Selenium 6s and 2 no name tweeters running active 1st place in AS3 @ Surf City Sound Off, 140.8 @ 45hz @ the headrest. rebuild coming soon to get a better score "I regard the brain as a computer which will stop working when its components fail. There is no heaven of afterlife for broken down computers; that is a fairy story for people who are afraid of the dark."
Punkeyboozter Posted August 17, 2011 Report Posted August 17, 2011 At the risk of sounding like a dumb ass, but what are the caracteristics and advantages of a t line? Any good for hometheatre/music combo setups? Thanks Loudness is no substitute for musicianship, and partial deafness is no badge of honor. I was once able to hear this advice. Build Log>>> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...pid=672024& New Build Believe in the order
nCOMP1337 Posted August 17, 2011 Report Posted August 17, 2011 At the risk of sounding like a dumb ass, but what are the caracteristics and advantages of a t line? Any good for hometheatre/music combo setups? Thanks they are made particularly for home theater, they have just been modified to work in car audio also, but work better in home theater to my knowledge, most reading you find online about t-lines are for home audio use
BassMunky Posted August 17, 2011 Report Posted August 17, 2011 dammmmmmmmmmmmmm Shakin not Stirred....my buildhttp://www.stevemead...ngle-cab-build/412 CVX And put a sealed enclosure in your trunk cut a hole in your deck and call it ported
Punkeyboozter Posted August 17, 2011 Report Posted August 17, 2011 At the risk of sounding like a dumb ass, but what are the caracteristics and advantages of a t line? Any good for hometheatre/music combo setups? Thanks they are made particularly for home theater, they have just been modified to work in car audio also, but work better in home theater to my knowledge, most reading you find online about t-lines are for home audio use sweet I might have to look into it. Loudness is no substitute for musicianship, and partial deafness is no badge of honor. I was once able to hear this advice. Build Log>>> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...pid=672024& New Build Believe in the order
STEvil Posted August 17, 2011 Report Posted August 17, 2011 You are really making this harder then it has to be. Kynto is right by using the SD. You can't measure from surround to surround and call it done as its a CONE, not a Flat CIRCLE. Sound travels at 1130 feet per second. Divide that by desired frequency then divide by 4 to get the length you want. Most people use the fs of the sub to get the frequency they want. simple, done. It you still can't figure it out stop asking us and go back to 5th grade math class. Actually you measure from center of surround on one side to center of surround on the other side because the effective area is a flat circle. The depth of a speaker does nothing. The width of the surround moves on a linear gradient (near the cone it moves almost as much as the cone, near the basket it moves almost none) so measuring from the center of the surround on each side gives you the closest measurement for effective piston area. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.
STEvil Posted August 17, 2011 Report Posted August 17, 2011 couple of other notes. you can "tune" above the fs of the sub but never below you can have less port area than the sd but never more play under "tuning" at your own risk tlines have no back pressure and will allow a sub to unload very quickly make the airflow in the box as smooth as possible and do not have any air leaks. it ruins the enclosure. majorly You can tune below if you want. Most HT applications do. Air leaks are easy to deal with given the lack of backpressure. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.
nCOMP1337 Posted August 17, 2011 Report Posted August 17, 2011 You are really making this harder then it has to be. Kynto is right by using the SD. You can't measure from surround to surround and call it done as its a CONE, not a Flat CIRCLE. Sound travels at 1130 feet per second. Divide that by desired frequency then divide by 4 to get the length you want. Most people use the fs of the sub to get the frequency they want. simple, done. It you still can't figure it out stop asking us and go back to 5th grade math class. Actually you measure from center of surround on one side to center of surround on the other side because the effective area is a flat circle. The depth of a speaker does nothing. The width of the surround moves on a linear gradient (near the cone it moves almost as much as the cone, near the basket it moves almost none) so measuring from the center of the surround on each side gives you the closest measurement for effective piston area. even more than SD considering SD is the factory (well whoever measures the t/s parameters) measurement of the effective cone area?
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