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Best way to ensure wire stays in amplifier?


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i dont beleive the powerwerx 1/0 welding cable isint really 1/0...scott bowman uses that

either fold some over or tighten that bitch down

Its tight as hell. I think if i go to tight.. it will just start breaking each piece of wire... till i hit bottom.

Ps.. i don't own a soldering gun.

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i dont beleive the powerwerx 1/0 welding cable isint really 1/0...scott bowman uses that

either fold some over or tighten that bitch down

Its tight as hell. I think if i go to tight.. it will just start breaking each piece of wire... till i hit bottom.

Ps.. i don't own a soldering gun.

Dude a soldering gun is way cheaper than that amp. I know I own 2 of em. But you should be able to screw it down far and have no problems.. Keep us posted

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take youre rosin core solder, and soler it, it will make it so it will not fray, and if your "not" filling the hole, it will make it larger... but if you use 1/0 monster, i recomend not i did that and the wire is so thick, i can barly git in even without it soldered, i love the fact its quality, but its just too big to work with, i git soo pssd, because i have to cut alot off to make it barly fit into my fuse boxes

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take youre rosin core solder, and soler it, it will make it so it will not fray, and if your "not" filling the hole, it will make it larger... but if you use 1/0 monster, i recomend not i did that and the wire is so thick, i can barly git in even without it soldered, i love the fact its quality, but its just too big to work with, i git soo pssd, because i have to cut alot off to make it barly fit into my fuse boxes

ummm :orly3:

I will just re tighten it some more and try to measure how long it takes to move/if it moves...

Edited by dkahns51
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They might work...

Also you could solder the cable into that and not have to solder it to the amp.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22084_Stinger-SHT206.html

sht206.jpg

Edited by Emmet

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They might work...

Also you could solder the cable into that and not have to solder it to the amp.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22084_Stinger-SHT206.html

sht206.jpg

Cool, didnt even think of that.. might consider that. Thanks.

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This is normal for what you have happening. Whats going on is the wire is staying stationary BUT the jacket itself is moving. So if you were for example to take that wire and pull on it very hard as long as you secured it tightly it wont come loose from the amps terminals. What would then happen is you would see some more of the wire inside that terminal being exposed. This is because when you pull on it or move it, you are bunching up the outer sheeting and when this happens it will move away from the tip of the wire. Think of it like when you originally stripped the jacket off the wire when you first wired up your amp, remember how you cut the wires jacket and then pulled it off? well this is the same thing thats happening here. the wire is locked in place by the amps clamps that rockford uses (very great btw, they are so damn tight you have to be a strong guy to rip the wire off them when properly secured) but the outer jacket/sheeting is not and thus when you move the wire that sheeting moves with the wire.

Another way you can see this would be to take a freshly cut piece of wire in which you did not cut any of the jacket off of and bend that wire around your finger toward the end of the piece of wire. What you will notice is the wire strands will be exposed more and more you wrap that wire around your finger. This is because the wires are staying the same but the outer jacket is changing its lengths.

One way i kinda got around it was to take the jacket and if i can sneak a small amount of it into the opening of the terminal BUT do not have it touch the plates where the wire clamps in place. When i have this set it push in on the wire as i tighten the hell out of that terminal and im done. I also have another method of where i stick the screw driver into the opening of the wires hole and mark off the outer edge where the screw driver is no longer inserted into the hole (the very tip of the connector) and i take about 1/8 of a inch less than that when i cut the sheeting/jacket off the tip of the wire and i install it. I have done this and have a tiny amount of wire that is exposed if i pull on the wire very hard.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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This is normal for what you have happening. Whats going on is the wire is staying stationary BUT the jacket itself is moving. So if you were for example to take that wire and pull on it very hard as long as you secured it tightly it wont come loose from the amps terminals. What would then happen is you would see some more of the wire inside that terminal being exposed. This is because when you pull on it or move it, you are bunching up the outer sheeting and when this happens it will move away from the tip of the wire. Think of it like when you originally stripped the jacket off the wire when you first wired up your amp, remember how you cut the wires jacket and then pulled it off? well this is the same thing thats happening here. the wire is locked in place by the amps clamps that rockford uses (very great btw, they are so damn tight you have to be a strong guy to rip the wire off them when properly secured) but the outer jacket/sheeting is not and thus when you move the wire that sheeting moves with the wire.

Another way you can see this would be to take a freshly cut piece of wire in which you did not cut any of the jacket off of and bend that wire around your finger toward the end of the piece of wire. What you will notice is the wire strands will be exposed more and more you wrap that wire around your finger. This is because the wires are staying the same but the outer jacket is changing its lengths.

One way i kinda got around it was to take the jacket and if i can sneak a small amount of it into the opening of the terminal BUT do not have it touch the plates where the wire clamps in place. When i have this set it push in on the wire as i tighten the hell out of that terminal and im done. I also have another method of where i stick the screw driver into the opening of the wires hole and mark off the outer edge where the screw driver is no longer inserted into the hole (the very tip of the connector) and i take about 1/8 of a inch less than that when i cut the sheeting/jacket off the tip of the wire and i install it. I have done this and have a tiny amount of wire that is exposed if i pull on the wire very hard.

Your the man kickass, I didnt even bother to think of it that way.. I will probably just make a recut. Thanks man!

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no problem bro. ive been doing this awhile to learn all the small little things like this (im ocd when it comes to details) lol. You can try to re-cut them but it will still happen. The only way you can try to get around it would be to take the the wire and brace it down to something close to the amp itself. For example since my amps are mounted on my sub box (i dont want to hear it from anyone, they are on rubber stoppers so they dont shake one bit from the bass) the wires that go to my sub amp are held in place on the side of my box with little metal/rubber tie down straps.

I got the idea for the straps after my dad suggested i use them to hold my ground wires up from my old sub box in my old car and it worked great. I have one for each wire for the power and it works great. A 3/4" connector for 0ga is what will work just fine and fit it tightly.

This is what i used: http://www.google.co...=1t:429,r:6,s:0

edit: since you really cant get around the wire exposing itself a small bit another thing you could do if you didnt feel like spending $5 for those rubber clamps, you could use those rubber connectors they use that go over your crimp terminal and your wire when you connect the wires to the terminal.

Like if you look at this pic, http://www.google.co...ved=0CE8Q8wIwAA

the red thing is what im talking about. you can take that red jacket and slip it over your wire before it goes into your amp, secure the wire in your amp as far as you can, push that rubber cover up and put some electrical tape over it to keep the wires from being exposed.

edit2: and so you are aware theres no way in hell you can solder that wire correctly and thoroughly with a simple soldering gun. My dad has a 150w soldering gun and that thing puts out insane heat but it wouldnt even get halfway through the 4ga cable i had for my mids and highs before i purchased rockford 4ga since it was thicker. I also saturated the hell out of the wire with flux so it would suck the solder in well. The only good way you can solder wire this thick is with a blow torch similar to what you use to solder metal pipes together in your house. Thats exactally what i used for my wires and it worked great. Just if you can regulate the flame down low as to not burn the hell out of the wires jacket when it gets that hot and when its soldered i like to submerge the tip i just soldered in cold water to prevent the jacket from melting anymore or any solder from running. When i soldered my 4ga wire with a solder gun it just put a small amount of it on the top of the wire and the inside was still untouched.

Edited by kickass audio

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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tin the wire...meaning, solder the wire so it's like a solid slug instead of lots of strands. This will keep it from spreading in the terminal. I do this to all my wires anyway.

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