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OK, so I would like to run a 12 inch 200 watt, and a 15 inch sub (unsure of what wattage, thats one of my questions). I was wondering what size amp I should get (affordable) and also, What would my wiring for the power cord to the amp need to upgraded to. In this situation are capacitors even needed? Any advice? Thanks, Chad

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from what ive heard you are better off just buying another battery than a cap, if you needed. but you wont be running enough power to be in need of that unless you have a puny puny alternator and your voltage is dropping. a cap really just puts a strain on another thing your alternator charges from charging and discharging so quickly. -- just what ive been told on here when i ran them back back way back in the day.

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I believe this is the wrong section, and i would never buy a capacitor, just put more strain on the alternator.

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Ill help ya out since i doubt other ppl will touch this one. First of all are you talking about putting a car audio system in your house/room? If so i dont recommend you use a capacitor for the power at all. Also for your amp something like a simple 2 channel that puts out the 200w rms at the subs imp load will be fine. What impedance sub do you have if you even have one?

I have two 10" subs next to my bed in my room that ran off a computer power supply (i fried the power supply from overloading it bomb.gif) but it worked great for my amps. The only downfall to doing a setup like this is that you cant make it really big because pc power supplys ONLY put out 12v power, nothing more so for amps that put out more power at higher voltages you wont get this. Also another downfall is that if you want to keep upgrading your system you will quickly reach the limits of the power supply since they only run off small 14ga wire and can only handle at most a 30 amp load from what i tested.

For the power of your sub, how big of a room are you planning to put it in? If its not a big room you wouldnt have much of a need for a big sub stage to "fill" the room with bass, if it is a big room you would need a decent amount of power to really fill the room with bass. I have a room that is about 14x22 feet and for my two 10's they worked well when i gave them 500w rms and they are in a sealed enclosure btw.

If you could, please let me know if you are talking about putting a car audio system in your house or a normal home theater type of setup and i will be able to help you from there.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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Ill help ya out since i doubt other ppl will touch this one. First of all are you talking about putting a car audio system in your house/room? If so i dont recommend you use a capacitor for the power at all. Also for your amp something like a simple 2 channel that puts out the 200w rms at the subs imp load will be fine. What impedance sub do you have if you even have one?

I have two 10" subs next to my bed in my room that ran off a computer power supply (i fried the power supply from overloading it bomb.gif) but it worked great for my amps. The only downfall to doing a setup like this is that you cant make it really big because pc power supplys ONLY put out 12v power, nothing more so for amps that put out more power at higher voltages you wont get this. Also another downfall is that if you want to keep upgrading your system you will quickly reach the limits of the power supply since they only run off small 14ga wire and can only handle at most a 30 amp load from what i tested.

For the power of your sub, how big of a room are you planning to put it in? If its not a big room you wouldnt have much of a need for a big sub stage to "fill" the room with bass, if it is a big room you would need a decent amount of power to really fill the room with bass. I have a room that is about 14x22 feet and for my two 10's they worked well when i gave them 500w rms and they are in a sealed enclosure btw.

If you could, please let me know if you are talking about putting a car audio system in your house or a normal home theater type of setup and i will be able to help you from there.

what power supply were you using to run your amps off the wall socket? i used to use a battery charger, but i know best buy has some other things i forgot what they were, where its not ghettoly rigged.. sorry for the thread jack op.

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bigaltexas - you will laugh your ass off but i used a pc power supply that is made to run a desktop computer. I bought a 500w ATX case power supply at circuit city when they were going under for $90 and modded a few small things on it (mainly cutting and connecting wires together). heres a crappy vid on how to do it (idr the one i looked up when i was 13 to see how to do it).

Basically heres how you do it.

1.) Get a power supply that is able to support your amp you wish to run (id get anything from 500-1000w for your system which will give you about 300-750w rms around 2 ohms depending on your amps current draw)

2.) Take the power supplys motherboard connector and look for the small all green colored wire. You need to cut this and the black wire DIRECTLY next to it on the same plug (the plug is the biggest one and has about 24 wires going into it) Take that black and green wire, strip it and twist them together and if you want solder them together. Tape the wires off so they wont short on anything.

3.) Take one of the connectors that goes into an IDE drive (it is about the size of an VGA cable and it has a red, 2 black, and a yellow wire on it. Also note, it is NOT the one that looks to have a cavity in it, this is for a floppy drive and wont supply crap for power. Look for one that is the thickest wire and use that since it is the main power wire and will give you the most amperage)

4.) Cut just the yellow and black wire that is right next to the yellow wire. The yellow wire will be your +12v wire for your amp and the black will be your ground wire for your amp.

5.) Connect the black and yellow wire to the amps power wire, then you need to take a small piece of wire (speaker wire will do) and connect it from the positive of the amplifiers power input to the remote turn-on connector of the amp.

6.) Plug the power supply into the wall and test it out, you should have a working amp/radio in your house now.

Of course if you want to do it an easier way you could get a good car battery charger and do it that way with a small car battery (ONLY get a sealed battery as a normal battery will release O2 gasses which are toxic and un noticable and will kill you)

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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