Low n Loud Posted November 16, 2007 Report Posted November 16, 2007 vids mofo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! yea dude, vids or this install never happened lol
Chris Posted November 16, 2007 Author Report Posted November 16, 2007 maybe it's so much bass that it's knocking a few connections loose ............ check all connections bro and i hope you solve what's making it cut off like that.Gotta be something loose, cuz I was bangin today with a sealed box (which didn't hit as hard) & I blasted on it constantly, no prob.Crank it & look at the amps. They shouldn't be going into protect though. I would recheck all connections.Gonna recheck everything as soon as shit warms up! BRRR!Is it an Rca connection....Thats my bet. Oh and how big is that box?I'll check, cuz I am running a high to low level converter. Box is right around 2.5 cubes per sub tuned to I believe 35hz. Yall gonna hate me, but I bought it prefabbed cuz it's too cold to build one plus I don't have the time. Again, all in due time... 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR.
Chris Posted November 16, 2007 Author Report Posted November 16, 2007 yea dude, vids or this install never happened lol LOLOkay, vid of your birth, or you never happened! 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR.
FieroGrande Posted November 16, 2007 Report Posted November 16, 2007 i was just about to ask if that was a prefab box...........Come on Chris you know better!
77-AUDIO Posted November 16, 2007 Report Posted November 16, 2007 For the remote wire you could use a relay. Use you radio remote to activate the switch/trigger of the relay which is the connector for the 12volst needed to turn on your amps. i have the same problem with my amp (ma audio 3500watt beast) and you could even put a fuse between the power supply and the relay for xtra protection. PPI dbl dinDC Level 31.77cubes net tuned to 33htz.DC audio 2.0kCT Pro Audio 8" in front, 6.5 in rear
Derrick824 Posted November 16, 2007 Report Posted November 16, 2007 Yall gonna hate me, but I bought it prefabbed cuz it's too cold to build one plus I don't have the time. Again, all in due time... No hate. Sometimes its just easier to buy than to build. So far I like the looks of everything but that hole in the seat. It seems like a great idea, but just needs a little more work.
Chris Posted November 16, 2007 Author Report Posted November 16, 2007 i was just about to ask if that was a prefab box...........Come on Chris you know better!Yeah I do, & it could probably be twice as loud if I had one built to specs... For the remote wire you could use a relay. Use you radio remote to activate the switch/trigger of the relay which is the connector for the 12volst needed to turn on your amps. i have the same problem with my amp (ma audio 3500watt beast) and you could even put a fuse between the power supply and the relay for xtra protection.I have a stock head unit & that's how it'll always stay, plus I like a kill switch right at my finger tips for when that po-po is spotted from the corner of my eye. 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR.
dmanson Posted November 16, 2007 Report Posted November 16, 2007 For the remote wire you could use a relay. Use you radio remote to activate the switch/trigger of the relay which is the connector for the 12volst needed to turn on your amps. i have the same problem with my amp (ma audio 3500watt beast) and you could even put a fuse between the power supply and the relay for xtra protection. that's a very good ideal since you have that switch in. anyways definitely try and mount the amps somewhere else like on a floor of the trunk right behind the box. you have a prefab box and i'm sure as hell it's vibrating those amps like crazy. it's the chance you take and brings the mistake. good luck. 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module
Chris Posted November 16, 2007 Author Report Posted November 16, 2007 that's a very good ideal since you have that switch in. anyways definitely try and mount the amps somewhere else like on a floor of the trunk right behind the box. you have a prefab box and i'm sure as hell it's vibrating those amps like crazy. it's the chance you take and brings the mistake. good luck.Yeah, Good suggestion. I def. should do something before I cause permanent damage...Maybe a sheet of MDF screwed to the back of the box 3/4 thick would cut down on the vibrations until I can build or pay someone to build me a new box all together? 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR.
Torres Posted November 16, 2007 Report Posted November 16, 2007 not sure how well this would work...but get like...4 pieces of rubber for each amp, and screw a piece of wood to them in each corner when you mount the amps to the box. or that way the rubber absorbs the vibration from the box and cuts down or eliminates it by the time it gets to your amp. again...not sure how effective, but i bet it'll help more than screwing straight to the box. if not, maybe try to mount them to a piece of wood and stabilize it to the sides of the trunk? somehow?
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.