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Chris' Fi/Crunch Project


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this might be your problem. are you wiring the switch through the power wire? if so thats whats restricting it. either way i would just wire the switch onto your remote turn on wire cause it will do the same thing but wont warm up the switch.

I doubt he would do that, but I'm not gonna say for sure.

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well it does the same effect. turns on and off your amp with a flick of a switch.

Yeah but thats alot of resistance, also I would like to see a little switch like that have 0 guage wire going to it lol :lol:

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Maxwell Caps

Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not

you havent lived until you've hit a screw with a router.

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Yeah but thats alot of resistance, also I would like to see a little switch like that have 0 guage wire going to it lol :lol:

yeah well thats why i was wondering if he did it through the power wire. either way i think the switch could be restricting power flow to the amps i just think it would be wise to put it on the remote turn on.

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this might be your problem. are you wiring the switch through the power wire? if so thats whats restricting it. either way i would just wire the switch onto your remote turn on wire cause it will do the same thing but wont warm up the switch.

yeah well thats why i was wondering if he did it through the power wire. either way i think the switch could be restricting power flow to the amps i just think it would be wise to put it on the remote turn on.

OH GOD NO! that switch is for REM turn on for both amps, If I used it for the actual power wire I'd have an instant fire

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Yea i was going to say most toggles only handle about 7-10 amps of current running through them, I think that would melt it into a stinky pile of goo

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not hatin, but am i wrong here it looks as if the amp is not grounded its hooked directly to the battery. it that the way it should be.

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Well today I went & bought all new RCA's, tightened down all connections & re-installed everything figuring that I would solve my problem of it wanting to cut in & out...

WRONG!!! But I noticed that when I stop real quick at a light, the system will cut back on until I move or something. I'm wondering if maybe the box vibration for those amps is so extreme, that one of the circuit boards came loose & is flopping around & that's why it cuts on when I stop fast. ( like it needs to be totally flat inside for some ground connection...)

Any ideas, or again, someone who has experience with this type of thing your help is SOOOO greatly appreciated. It sucks having some slick ass equipment just sitting there bursting with potential but nothing else! :(

4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz

1- T1000.1bd's

3 Maxx 29 deep cycles

4 runs of 1/0 gauge

-Big 3

-Trunk sealed off from the cabin

Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module

All in a CAR.

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Well today I went & bought all new RCA's, tightened down all connections & re-installed everything figuring that I would solve my problem of it wanting to cut in & out...

WRONG!!! But I noticed that when I stop real quick at a light, the system will cut back on until I move or something. I'm wondering if maybe the box vibration for those amps is so extreme, that one of the circuit boards came loose & is flopping around & that's why it cuts on when I stop fast. ( like it needs to be totally flat inside for some ground connection...)

Any ideas, or again, someone who has experience with this type of thing your help is SOOOO greatly appreciated. It sucks having some slick ass equipment just sitting there bursting with potential but nothing else! :(

I had an install in a contour do that and it ended up being a bad fuse/holder (engine bay)set up any movement and it would get a weak current flow causing the amp to not produce it full capacity....Thought it was her alty going out at first!

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maybe your alternator can't keep with with juicing both batteries and both amps. if the voltage drops so low things start to cut off.

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