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Bad wiring or Bad Alternator?


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I got this 220 amp installed in my 1995 buick skylark. After having it installed and had the "BIG 3 upgrade" done, the lights will dim a little and the heater will slow down when at idle, I'd give it some gas and the lights light up and the fan returns to normal speed. I have 3 grounds to the battery, my wiring is 1/0. It goes from the battery to the starter to the alternator...had to use 8 gauge for the alt>starter, the belt got in the way.

I have several people telling me to ground the alternator better....I also have someone telling me to get another battery and hook it up...because at idle with no lights on, the car sits at 14.7v when my lights are on it drops to 13.3v.

I'm hoping it isn't a bad alternator...

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So you don't have a charge line from the alt straight to the battery?? And your using 1/0 from the battery positive, to the starter, then from starter you ran 8 gauge to the alt?

If so you did the big three COMPLETELY wrong

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1994 Chevy Full Size blazer

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So you don't have a charge line from the alt straight to the battery?? And your using 1/0 from the battery positive, to the starter, then from starter you ran 8 gauge to the alt?

If so you did the big three COMPLETELY wrong

Sound's exactly how he did it.

How it should be i believe.

Alt positive to battery

Battery to ground

Engine to frame.

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So you don't have a charge line from the alt straight to the battery?? And your using 1/0 from the battery positive, to the starter, then from starter you ran 8 gauge to the alt?

If so you did the big three COMPLETELY wrong

Sound's exactly how he did it.

How it should be i believe.

Alt positive to battery

Battery to ground

Engine to frame.

Correct.

OP, the starter has NOTHING to do with the "big three"

Run 1/0 from the Alt to the battery (fused if you want)

1/0 from battery ground to frame

1/0 from battery to engine ground.

Just follow the stock wires, and ADD to them, dont remove the stock wiring

2014 Chevy Silverado Crewcab

1994 Chevy Full Size blazer

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I had a mechanic do it for me and the guy said there was no way to by pass it or the starter would not work...else wise theres no way to by pass it.

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you still need a power wire to the starter, but that should already be in place....

the big 3 has nothing to do with the starter, you are just adding more wire for more current flow...

if the car would start before you had your mechanic buddy do what he did, then it should start if you take what he added off from the starter, unless he took the stock wire out...

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I had a mechanic do it for me and the guy said there was no way to by pass it or the starter would not work...else wise theres no way to by pass it.

That dude is blowing smoke. Just add wires, if there is a need for this magic wire to make it start then the factory wire will be there for that.

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I bought the alternator from a company named DB electrical. I will order more 1/0 power wire for going to the alternator to the battery. Hopefully this will solve my problems. The Mechanic did replace all the stock wiring....3 ground wires from the battery to new ground spots ...and etc..

Thank you for your inputs everyone.

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the 8 gauge is not enough, just take the 0 gauge from starter and plug it to the alternator, the starter don't need 0 gauge to work properly, the starter will piggy bank from the battery with the 8 gauge connected to the alternator

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