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Car troubles after installing second battery and doing big 3


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Ok I cleaned up some wires last night under the hood (grounds, power wire, etc.), added some more runs, and installed an Optima YellowTop, and I somehow caused a huge issue. The connections are all the same underneath the hood. What happens now is that my fans (electric) are both stuck on high and my temp gauge is stuck at zero. I feel these issues are related. The gauge still works, as it moves when I start the car. The wires all seem good and connections are solid.

I replaced the coolant temperature sensor with a new one.... no effect.

I disconnected the positive on the battery and grounded it out in order to reset all of the electrical systems... nothing.

I disconnected the PCM in order to reset everything... nothing.

I have no idea what to do now. The car also has sporadic voltage and it will not start due to low voltage for some reason. Maybe something is shorted? I check as many fuses as I could and saw no blown ones. And I also do not know how the battery is draining so quickly as to no allow the car to start. It will be floating at 12.8V or so, and I will start it and then shut if off and it will all of the sudden be at 12.1 V and refuses to start. The battery is in fine condition. I am sure of that.

I also disconnected all aftermarket wires (amps, YellowTop, etc.) in order to isolate the problem, but nothing changed. I appreciate any advice, as I cannot afford to not have my car at Christmas. Thanks guys.

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un do what you did and see if the problem is still there.

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When you did the big 3 did you leave the factory wires? Some cars the stock power wire from the alternator goes to the fuse block and runs the electrical and they will not work if you just put a 1/0 on and did not connect the factory wire as well. Also make sure your grounds are all good.

Suburban Build Log



"So much money and time spent making copper winding move up and down a magnetic pole"



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i say list EXACTLY what you did step by step just to make sure you did it 100% correct. not doubting your abilities just trying to help :)

i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it

Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks.

/ LOL

My Low Budget Build:

Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K

headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25

4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50

4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece

6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more

2 aspm 1300 strapped

Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20

quantum tweets in door-for now -$10

boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free

big 3

1/0 and 4awg throughout.

roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free

on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test

about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all

still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq

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Well, you didn't give us a whole lot of info to go off of. Did you drill any holes in the frame, chassis, or body? If so, did you possibly damage a wiring harness in the process? Many late model vehicles have harnesses tucked in all sorts of crannies. Did you run any self-tapping screws into the frame, chassis, or body? If so, is it possible that one has come in contact with a harness on the other side? Did you mount anything? Did you accidentally pinch or crimp a harness in the process?

Keep in mind that every time you connect the battery, you are supplying whatever problem that you are looking for with a seemingly unlimited amount of current. If you have a short, at some point in time you will have a much larger problem than you have presently. If you have access to a clamp type DC ammeter, this would be an excellent time to put it to work. Place it around the positive cable and temporarily re-connect the negative. Any reading in excess of one amp is cause for concern. From the sounds of things, you have a significantly larger problem.

As for the gauge and fans, I would agree that those problems would seem to be inter-related. Without having access to a schematic of your vehicle's wiring harness, about the only thing they could have in common would be a ground connection. The gauge is likely fine, so I'm speaking of the sending unit. If it has a single wire, then it is sourcing ground through the block or intake manifold, depending on it's location. Sending unit connected to block, block to battery (-), etc. If it has two wires, then one of them is likely connected to ground and the other to the gauge (whether directly or through the vehicle ECU). If that is the case, it is possible that the sending unit and fan relays share a common ground. If they were tied together, but not grounded, each would attempt to source ground through the other. You say you moved and changed stuff. Could you have accidentally disconnected their ground and forgot to re-connect it? Depending on the wiring of the fan relays, having them not grounded, could cause the fans to operate in one speed but not the other.

Whatever you do, don't assume the problem will fix itself. Good luck, and report back.

Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing
Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner!

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