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I've never done high powered stuff - not a market for it here.

so then you have no experience or hands on with what you are talking about?

just wanted to put that out in the open.

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Always did wonder this, not to the extent of them cables, but my dads an electric arc welder by trade, so he always has 4/0 cable lying around and it seems cheaper than the branded "car audio" 1/0 power cable, anyone know the reason why besides the whole marketing thing?

Edit: Also its kind of impossible to say 150 amps is max for 1/0, to be accurate, voltage drop, insulation temperature limit, thickness, thermal conductivity, and air convection and temperature are all part of it, the ratings for cables are very conservative to stop stupid people setting things on fire.

Doing electronic systems engineering in college so this is the shit im stuck memorising :rofl:

i shook this one kids hand and it just folded in mine. long story short i fucked his girlfriendso.. yeah..

You want this to happen to you? Give decent handshakes people.

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1/0 is very easy to use and i think is ideal for any sized car stereo application. COULD the larger spec wire help out with our setups (Possibly Yes) is it gonna be a possible to get it in some of our vehicles (Probably Not), larger wire has its uses but in this situation (No) too many things factor in. Its like a 800 pound chick in a smart car

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:NeedPics: of install with said huge ass wire

I have never seen it done.

.....seriously? that's like a 15% drop in voltage......

15% over 30 feet, at 300amps of max draw? Please.

Always did wonder this, not to the extent of them cables, but my dads an electric arc welder by trade, so he always has 4/0 cable lying around and it seems cheaper than the branded "car audio" 1/0 power cable, anyone know the reason why besides the whole marketing thing?

Edit: Also its kind of impossible to say 150 amps is max for 1/0, to be accurate, voltage drop, insulation temperature limit, thickness, thermal conductivity, and air convection and temperature are all part of it, the ratings for cables are very conservative to stop stupid people setting things on fire.

Doing electronic systems engineering in college so this is the shit im stuck memorising :rofl:

Put a 30' run of 1/0 cable in a car, apply 300 amps to it, and you're voltage will dip ABOUT 15% - that means if you started with 14.3 you will now have 12.15, and that's before even factoring in the drop from the batteries, alternator, connectors, etc. In reality you're probably looking at 11v at best.

Emmet - you're right. You can't say a given wire will allow an EXACT amount of current, and that's why the biggest SPL rigs are always over done on the wiring end - 10 runs of 1/0 has been done many times because you need that for 1200amps with little voltage drop. If you push 3000amps through it, you're voltage will dump, and likely fuses will pop if you do any more than a 3second burp.

Heat creates resistance, so a warmer climate will allow for less current draw. Cheaper cable often has more resistance per foot in it, albeit more strands to make it all flexy..... oh wow. Put that same 1/0 cable with 300 amps in a hot car, add in the cheap connectors with a few strands hanging out the end, and you've got a HOT wire by the time the fuse pops.

Yo momma fit in my smart car just fine. :D

Tuani Fabrication

Wasilla, AK

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Always did wonder this, not to the extent of them cables, but my dads an electric arc welder by trade, so he always has 4/0 cable lying around and it seems cheaper than the branded "car audio" 1/0 power cable, anyone know the reason why besides the whole marketing thing?

Edit: Also its kind of impossible to say 150 amps is max for 1/0, to be accurate, voltage drop, insulation temperature limit, thickness, thermal conductivity, and air convection and temperature are all part of it, the ratings for cables are very conservative to stop stupid people setting things on fire.

Doing electronic systems engineering in college so this is the shit im stuck memorising :rofl:

a lot of it is flexibility, and ease of use. I would pay an extra dollar a foot to have something easier to run that is effective. Plus many companies market their wire as 1/0 when it is closer to 2/0

29408240963_9908a51930_o.png
Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

BL :  http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/

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Put a 30' run of 1/0 cable in a car, apply 300 amps to it, and you're voltage will dip ABOUT 15% - that means if you started with 14.3 you will now have 12.15, and that's before even factoring in the drop from the batteries, alternator, connectors, etc. In reality you're probably looking at 11v at best.

Emmet - you're right. You can't say a given wire will allow an EXACT amount of current, and that's why the biggest SPL rigs are always over done on the wiring end - 10 runs of 1/0 has been done many times because you need that for 1200amps with little voltage drop. If you push 3000amps through it, you're voltage will dump, and likely fuses will pop if you do any more than a 3second burp.

Heat creates resistance, so a warmer climate will allow for less current draw. Cheaper cable often has more resistance per foot in it, albeit more strands to make it all flexy..... oh wow. Put that same 1/0 cable with 300 amps in a hot car, add in the cheap connectors with a few strands hanging out the end, and you've got a HOT wire by the time the fuse pops.

Yo momma fit in my smart car just fine. :D

1. you dont get drop from batteries and alts, they are what keeps the voltage up, second the longest run someone would need in a car is probably at the most 20ft.

2. how many times have you run non flexible wire 1/0 or bigger in your life, in cars flexibility is almost as important as the current carrying capacity.

3. you wont have strands hanging out the end, or cheap connectors. it is the DIYers job do it RIGHT, if strands are hanging out and the connecters are cheap, that is purely the installers fault, not the wire.

29408240963_9908a51930_o.png
Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

BL :  http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/

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