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I would shank a baby panda if I had that neon shit in my doors and dash...

Still, nice car for 100 bux

lol, thanks, its a personal taste of mine though, I kinda like them half the time, but lately they havent been on in months due to me working all over the car

[my bad, I misread. Gotta get off this site while studying]

2000 Ford Focus LX; Yellowtop Optima secondary battery; Rockford Fosgate T1500.1bdCP; 3 x 12" RE Audio SE-X 600w rms each @ 1.33Ohms; custom built enclosure; Clarion XR2410; 4 x Rockford Fosgate P1683 full range; SoundStream VR-345; NVX XEQ7 Equalizer

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nice car esp for a 1st ride

cant seem to get it out of my head tho you bought killer subs and amp and went with a pre fab box.. those are soo bad

and also any big 3 upgrade?? with that stock 80amp alty

yea... I thought about making a box but since I've never done that before, nor have the tools, nor any of my friends or friends of friends know how to do it, I lost interest real fast and just went and bought a box

I havent done a big 3 yet until after I find a replacement engine so I can upgrade to a dohc zetec and then get a HO alternator. and actually, my stock alternator is 110A so its able to do its job when I'm in motion

2000 Ford Focus LX; Yellowtop Optima secondary battery; Rockford Fosgate T1500.1bdCP; 3 x 12" RE Audio SE-X 600w rms each @ 1.33Ohms; custom built enclosure; Clarion XR2410; 4 x Rockford Fosgate P1683 full range; SoundStream VR-345; NVX XEQ7 Equalizer

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I'm pretty satisfied with my level of bass specially for a daily driver.

good luck with being "satisfied" If youre anything like us you'll never be satisfied.

Btw no point in saying what im not a fan of just wanna say what i do like.

Your neon strips on the inside are honestly sick as fuck! What did you buy to do that outline on your doors looks dope dude.

yea, I know what you mean, sometimes I want to increase the gain on my amp and push out more power on my subs, but Im still leaving it at 45% gain with +50% on the punch eq. [idk what the level is on the punch eq so 50% is just referring that I have it half way up]

I used EL wire to wire up the doors, and honestly, I did the work entirely myself, I simply prepared the door with how I wanted it to look like with the EL wire in the grooving of the door, and then first applied rubber cement to small sections then applied the EL wire in that small section, let it dry, then keep going until I have completed my design. I used rubber cement because it can be removed safely without damage to the door itself, and because it does not stain the interior unlike super glue. I made that mistake at the very beginning on my dashboard. I had used super glue and it discolored my dashboard to a white color. It really looked bad because it looked like someone had jizzed on my dashboard. lmao

good to know man thanks

Scion tC SQ Build
iPad mini, lots of fabrication, daily driven
Ford Explorer C Pillar Wall Build

Just a cheap car to destroy with bass :D

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I learned everything the hard way... so listen up.

1. Turn that "bass eq" all the way down. Subwoofer output maxed on radio. Flat EQ.

2. Set your gain to the voltage of the pre-outs on your radio. The gain is NOT a volume knob. Set the subsonic filter to ~5hz lower than your box's tuned frequency.

3. Get a DD-1 to set your gains right. But if you do the first two things you'll be a lot better off than you are now.

Bass boost or "bass eq" or whatever... it causes clipping. Don't use it. Keep your EQ flat on your radio as well to prevent clipping. All tuning is done at the amps bro. Let the power of the amp do the work.

If you do all this, your subs will see "clean" power and you will be able to push even more power to them eventually when you upgrade your amp.

Very nice though man. Love to see someone take a car and turn it into a work of art. Props man.

2010 F150 FX4
-18" AA Mayhem
-Crescendo BC3500d
-Pioneer GM-D9500F 4-channel
-2 Crescendo FT1

-2 Crescendo Neo Forte 6.5

-Pioneer AVH-P3300BT
-6000K HID Headlights/Fog lights
-All LED interior lighting
-20% tint on front windows, 1% rear windows, 5% windshield strip
-Big3 (XSFlex 0ga)

-DC Power 270XP

-Group 65 NorthStar AGM battery

Coming soon/plans:

-Build log
-Blacked out mirror reflectors
-Tinted tails/3rd brake light

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^^^ thats what im saying, and with not having a dd-1 you cant accurately set the gain wich is why i say no where above 1/4 way up im not even 1/5 the way up on my gain, till i can get the gain set right i wont turn the gain any higher lower sure but not higher.

correction you can set the gain but it is a little more difficult to do.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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I learned everything the hard way... so listen up.

1. Turn that "bass eq" all the way down. Subwoofer output maxed on radio. Flat EQ.

2. Set your gain to the voltage of the pre-outs on your radio. The gain is NOT a volume knob. Set the subsonic filter to ~5hz lower than your box's tuned frequency.

3. Get a DD-1 to set your gains right. But if you do the first two things you'll be a lot better off than you are now.

Bass boost or "bass eq" or whatever... it causes clipping. Don't use it. Keep your EQ flat on your radio as well to prevent clipping. All tuning is done at the amps bro. Let the power of the amp do the work.

If you do all this, your subs will see "clean" power and you will be able to push even more power to them eventually when you upgrade your amp.

Very nice though man. Love to see someone take a car and turn it into a work of art. Props man.

thanks! I put the punch eq to minimum and later on, when I get the dd-1, I'll make the adjustments to the gain

2000 Ford Focus LX; Yellowtop Optima secondary battery; Rockford Fosgate T1500.1bdCP; 3 x 12" RE Audio SE-X 600w rms each @ 1.33Ohms; custom built enclosure; Clarion XR2410; 4 x Rockford Fosgate P1683 full range; SoundStream VR-345; NVX XEQ7 Equalizer

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I learned everything the hard way... so listen up. 1. Turn that "bass eq" all the way down. Subwoofer output maxed on radio. Flat EQ. 2. Set your gain to the voltage of the pre-outs on your radio. The gain is NOT a volume knob. Set the subsonic filter to ~5hz lower than your box's tuned frequency. 3. Get a DD-1 to set your gains right. But if you do the first two things you'll be a lot better off than you are now. Bass boost or "bass eq" or whatever... it causes clipping. Don't use it. Keep your EQ flat on your radio as well to prevent clipping. All tuning is done at the amps bro. Let the power of the amp do the work. If you do all this, your subs will see "clean" power and you will be able to push even more power to them eventually when you upgrade your amp. Very nice though man. Love to see someone take a car and turn it into a work of art. Props man.
thanks! I put the punch eq to minimum and later on, when I get the dd-1, I'll make the adjustments to the gain

No problem bro! You'll notice a big difference! It'll be less punchy but you won't burn out your subs. I lost a fully loaded 15" BTL because I didnt know any better. So I had to learn all that the hard way haha.

2010 F150 FX4
-18" AA Mayhem
-Crescendo BC3500d
-Pioneer GM-D9500F 4-channel
-2 Crescendo FT1

-2 Crescendo Neo Forte 6.5

-Pioneer AVH-P3300BT
-6000K HID Headlights/Fog lights
-All LED interior lighting
-20% tint on front windows, 1% rear windows, 5% windshield strip
-Big3 (XSFlex 0ga)

-DC Power 270XP

-Group 65 NorthStar AGM battery

Coming soon/plans:

-Build log
-Blacked out mirror reflectors
-Tinted tails/3rd brake light

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Share on other sites

I learned everything the hard way... so listen up. 1. Turn that "bass eq" all the way down. Subwoofer output maxed on radio. Flat EQ. 2. Set your gain to the voltage of the pre-outs on your radio. The gain is NOT a volume knob. Set the subsonic filter to ~5hz lower than your box's tuned frequency. 3. Get a DD-1 to set your gains right. But if you do the first two things you'll be a lot better off than you are now. Bass boost or "bass eq" or whatever... it causes clipping. Don't use it. Keep your EQ flat on your radio as well to prevent clipping. All tuning is done at the amps bro. Let the power of the amp do the work. If you do all this, your subs will see "clean" power and you will be able to push even more power to them eventually when you upgrade your amp. Very nice though man. Love to see someone take a car and turn it into a work of art. Props man.
thanks! I put the punch eq to minimum and later on, when I get the dd-1, I'll make the adjustments to the gain

No problem bro! You'll notice a big difference! It'll be less punchy but you won't burn out your subs. I lost a fully loaded 15" BTL because I didnt know any better. So I had to learn all that the hard way haha.

yea, my current amp is my first amp that I've really had to adjust my gain and everything. My first setup was an all-in-one setup so I could put the gain up to 75% and max the bass boost with no problems

2000 Ford Focus LX; Yellowtop Optima secondary battery; Rockford Fosgate T1500.1bdCP; 3 x 12" RE Audio SE-X 600w rms each @ 1.33Ohms; custom built enclosure; Clarion XR2410; 4 x Rockford Fosgate P1683 full range; SoundStream VR-345; NVX XEQ7 Equalizer

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Also be sure to set your subsonic correctly or you'll bottom out and cause mad damage.

2010 F150 FX4
-18" AA Mayhem
-Crescendo BC3500d
-Pioneer GM-D9500F 4-channel
-2 Crescendo FT1

-2 Crescendo Neo Forte 6.5

-Pioneer AVH-P3300BT
-6000K HID Headlights/Fog lights
-All LED interior lighting
-20% tint on front windows, 1% rear windows, 5% windshield strip
-Big3 (XSFlex 0ga)

-DC Power 270XP

-Group 65 NorthStar AGM battery

Coming soon/plans:

-Build log
-Blacked out mirror reflectors
-Tinted tails/3rd brake light

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