MrSkippyJ Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 yup F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted April 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 yup Worded my question a bit odd, so can't tell if you were saying yes to running wire between both negs on the batteries or yes to not doing that and just grounding each negative to metal Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvxsmitty58 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 You don't need a ground wire front to back but it's definitely suggested. If you don't, the big 3 is pretty much mandatory. Make sure you find a good ground in the back too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 your correct on the two runs of wire, id go 250 amp on the fusing as its the maximum current that you can push through that wire till you get voltage drop, also upgrade your grounds and alt wire w 1/0(big three upgrade). the external fusing just means run a fuse in the main power wire its always best to use your vehicles frame for your primary ground (I know, unibodies use their body for grounds ... same thing) ... this is what the rest of your vehicle does, Every electrical device in your vehicle depends on your frame ground .... You can run a negative lead from front to back, but not really needed ... If you create better grounding points for your headunit than what your vehicle uses, you can create unwanted noise ... Please make your ground leads as short as possible to grounding points ... with the exception on one lead (and I plan on changing that one soon) ALL of my ground wire leads are no longer than 24 inches long ... Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 So I'm gathering that it's better to just ground each battery to the metal frame separately instead of running 1/0 between both negative posts? I will be doing the big 3 with this upgrade, sorry if I just assumed you all knew Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 yup Worded my question a bit odd, so can't tell if you were saying yes to running wire between both negs on the batteries or yes to not doing that and just grounding each negative to metal Sorry, you don't have to run a wire between - terminals. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrchevy87 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 your correct on the two runs of wire, id go 250 amp on the fusing as its the maximum current that you can push through that wire till you get voltage drop, also upgrade your grounds and alt wire w 1/0(big three upgrade). the external fusing just means run a fuse in the main power wire its always best to use your vehicles frame for your primary ground (I know, unibodies use their body for grounds ... same thing) ... this is what the rest of your vehicle does, Every electrical device in your vehicle depends on your frame ground .... You can run a negative lead from front to back, but not really needed ... If you create better grounding points for your headunit than what your vehicle uses, you can create unwanted noise ... Please make your ground leads as short as possible to grounding points ... with the exception on one lead (and I plan on changing that one soon) ALL of my ground wire leads are no longer than 24 inches long ... with todays new chassis alloys and the rust and deterioration of the old chassis designs resistance is relatively high through the frame ground, especially unibodies where the thickest piece of metal is maybe an eighth of an inch thick and half aluminum. Copper offers much less resistance which is why i run seperate ground wires, the total amount of power an average vehicle will draw through its frame is about 60 amps and we put amps in the draw upwards of two to three hundred amps far surpassing the body grounds capacity Jeep Wrangler TJ Hardtop Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 How is that possible when we all know energy flows from negative to positive ??? EVERY vehicle has a common ground ... Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrchevy87 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 yes every vehicle has a common ground because the manufacturer only plans on a 100 amp draw max, they did not take into consideration that we would be putting aftermarket accessories capable of drawing a few hundred amps. You also have to look into the fact that every accessory already uses that ground so your adding an extra load on top of it and the factory accessories arent as dependent on steady voltage as our amps are and voltage drops can introduce distortion. its not a necessity for lower end systems but it definitely cant hurt as resistance will be much lower. Take my jeep for example, it has a solid steel frame a little under 1/4 inch thick(of wich i use because i dont have the money for the extra wire yet and with only 1500 watts rms its not absolutely necessary) but with all my grounding points sanded im still reading a .1 ohm resistance with the big three done, my resistance on my power wire(about 15 feet 1/0 royal excelene welding cable) doesnt even register on my dmm as its too low(0.00147405 calculated) Jeep Wrangler TJ Hardtop Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Ok ... If this is the case, then why in the competition rule books every ground from a battery or battery bank must be no longer than 18 inches to the body of the vehicle ?? Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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