AA98hoe Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 Why not save up and buy a 7.5..and run on 12v it will be a lot cheaper Quote TEAM DC AUDIO VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop HEADUNIT:alpine 9886 PREAMP:arcaudio FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4 REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back BATTERIES:6-d1400s TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bre2ts Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 use the search function Quote Feedback 1 | Feedback 2 you win some, you lose some Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebuck1919 Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 isn't a 16v system when u have 16v batteries?? i think u mean a 14v system?? and ive kinda wondered the same thing, cept id do 2 or 3 alts for the 14v system...otherwise there doesnt seem to be much point...running a 5k offa one alt...? it'd be a 500+amp draw id think...i agree with one of the other posts, u might be better off getting a 7.5k and running two alts on a 12v system...more amps to ur amp so less of a drop in voltage (i believe) and easier to wire it all up, since then u dont hafta worry about what to wire where. just my .02 Quote Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/152368-littlebuck1919s-feedback/#entry2177586 i think you'd stick your dick in a blender if it told you it was 40 wtih two kids your age. lol 6/18/82 - 4/17/12 R.I.P. to my sister Shana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 You might not be a noob, but 16v systems(charging at 18v) are really only useful for competitors that are trying to milk every 1/10th of a db out of what they have. Why do you want to feed a sub that is rated for 2200w 3000w? If you want to do this, then dont but a 5k, and just get 2 3.5s while they are on pre sale. Trust me, stick with 12v it will work out better for you in the long run. 14v and 16v batteries get damn expensive in a hurry when you have to build a much larger bank than you do with 12v batteries. I am running 10 D1400s for 2 5ks with 2 350a alts. It takes every bit of that electrical to keep me from having voltage drop and I still have drop when at idle. With a 12v setup, you can run the D3100s or Xp3000s and get alot more reserve capacity than you will get with the 1400s or 1600s. This will keep your voltage higher for longer which is what you want for a daily setup. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan @ XSpower Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Dual set up is a lot easier than a single alt on stock electrical. Have one atl (stock) for your 12V side to power your vehicle. Then have the other alt to power your 16V side charging in the 19.2V range. Only thing that will get the 16V side power will be your amps for the subs. If you have a big enough battery bank, then one alt will work fine for you. Do yourself a favor and get a good 16V charger as well. If you are going to have a large bank of batteries then go with the 1005 model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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