goodvibez Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 I have to ask...what's the difference in ar cones and the other cones? Also are the surrounds the same? My xl 10s have the ar's and didn't know... Funny how the people who have a louder system than you will usually give you a compliment about your setup because they know how much blood, sweat, time, and money you put into it. The people who criticize or try and one up you....have a p.o.s to no system at all and will tell you all about this "other" guys system! Saddley I'm sure if I meet this "other" guy...he will probably tell me he thinks your just as annoying as I think you are! I'm not compensating, just proud of fabricating! My build log: 10k center console with 4 DC Audio XL 10's powered by 2 DC Audio 5.0k amps 5 xs batteries and dual DC Power 300xps alts http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169404-goodvibez-04-dmax-10k-center-console-w4-xl-10s-custom-5ksit-plays/page-19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 I believe AR cones are like a normal version of the sundown hyper surround and they have a different cone material? Not a DC expert. Just chiming in because I always come by wicks build. Wicks. The cap placement is interesting. Can you elaborate on the voltage slowly rising thing? Reason I mention, is because with my dc 270xp and my tiny 2.2 honda engine... Things don't work perfectly at idle especially with the AC on. The alternator is a bit too strong for my engine to torque through it and I drop to 500rpm until my computer bumps it back up to 750. So every single stop my car bogs down for a full second or two until the computer over rides it. All that being explained, I've been thinking about 1) the space needed to add caps 2) how to make it look good since I'm already happy with how my wiring looks 3) if they would make my bogging down idle question worse or better or unchanged. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted August 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 Just wanted to pop in to say once again I love this car and build, hands down still my favorite on these boards. You guys and your meter troubles are one thing I'm sure glad I don't worry about lol, all the stressing over tenths and what not. It does seem ridiculous to me that even with different cones, going to almost double the power you have lost on the meter... but I have seen that type of thing mentioned in more than a few threads here from those of you who know and play that game. Thx! Yep, you'll save a LOT of heartache if you stay away from the meter. Nothing but trouble. If you do start metering....it gets in your bones and you tend to go crazy trying to hit a certain number... Just because I have that 9K in my trunk, doesn't necessarily mean I'm throwing double the power at the subs, I have some tweaking to do yet. I have to ask...what's the difference in ar cones and the other cones? Also are the surrounds the same? My xl 10s have the ar's and didn't know... AR cones are reinforced and stronger, but you lose a little cone area and gain a monster surround. Paper cones: AR cones: Notice the AR cones have less area between the dustcaps and the edge of the surround. Whether that realistically reduces the SPL....hard to tell. Maybe they're still a little stiff...IDK. Still need to do some messing around. I REALLY want that 150 Legal though so I'm going to shoot for that and see what happens. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted August 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 I believe AR cones are like a normal version of the sundown hyper surround and they have a different cone material? Not a DC expert. Just chiming in because I always come by wicks build. Wicks. The cap placement is interesting. Can you elaborate on the voltage slowly rising thing? Reason I mention, is because with my dc 270xp and my tiny 2.2 honda engine... Things don't work perfectly at idle especially with the AC on. The alternator is a bit too strong for my engine to torque through it and I drop to 500rpm until my computer bumps it back up to 750. So every single stop my car bogs down for a full second or two until the computer over rides it. All that being explained, I've been thinking about 1) the space needed to add caps 2) how to make it look good since I'm already happy with how my wiring looks 3) if they would make my bogging down idle question worse or better or unchanged. Elaborating on the voltage stability. The batteries rest at ~12.8-13V. I charge at ~14.9V. Without the caps, when I would start my engine, the voltage would shoot from 12 to 14 rather quickly (~1sec). With the caps, its a MUCH slower change as the caps are charging from 12 to 14V. I would roughly say 3-5 seconds. Noticeably different. Voltage is much more stable as well when I'm driving around and the alternator is on full output all the time. As requested, I'll try and document it with some video when I can get a chance. The caps might help your bogging down but since its a power source that is supplied from the alternator, it could also make it worse as its yet another thing the alternator has to charge. Depends on the situation but it could help supply some current and take the load off of your alternator too. Hard to say. Would a smaller alternator pulley help? Increase the speed of the alternator, keep it supplying more current and not let it go idle...? This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 Would a smaller alternator pulley help? Increase the speed of the alternator, keep it supplying more current and not let it go idle...? I thought a larger pulley would help.. and heres why. Heres how I see it: Your little 2.2 is doesnt produce much torque at idle. The 270XP needs power to make power.. it needs mechanical power. Your engine doesnt supply enough mechanical power at idle, so your RPMs drop. If you got a smaller pulley, your alt will try to output more power at lower RPMs. Thats the issue. Your alt producing all that power down low is dragging down your engine. If you were concerned with your engine speed dropping.. Id think a larger pulley would help On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REH Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 Would a smaller alternator pulley help? Increase the speed of the alternator, keep it supplying more current and not let it go idle...? I thought a larger pulley would help.. and heres why. Heres how I see it: Your little 2.2 is doesnt produce much torque at idle. The 270XP needs power to make power.. it needs mechanical power. Your engine doesnt supply enough mechanical power at idle, so your RPMs drop. If you got a smaller pulley, your alt will try to output more power at lower RPMs. Thats the issue. Your alt producing all that power down low is dragging down your engine. If you were concerned with your engine speed dropping.. Id think a larger pulley would help Shouldn't it physically easier for that 2.2 to spin the smaller pulley than the larger pulley? I would think that it would follow the same way that gearing works in other applications. I'm thinking of it as a bicycle for example, the sprocket on the crank being a fixed size let's say 44 tooth and rear wheel freewheel being a 16 tooth (pretty standard) vs a 44t/13t setup that makes it insanely easy to take off pedaling. (ignore the bicycle reference, just how I can put it together in a fairly easy to understand way in my head). But usually it would take a lot less torque to spin the smaller pulley on something with resistance on it than a larger one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Shouldn't it physically easier for that 2.2 to spin the smaller pulley than the larger pulley? heres my logic.. With a smaller pulley, the alt spins faster at ANY speed. As the alt rotor speed increases, so does its max output at that given speed.. until the alternator itself maxxes out. It takes (mechanical) power to make (electrical) power. That mechanical power comes from the engine. As the engine struggles to output mechanical power, RPM drops. On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goodvibez Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Sorry one more question but the surround they use on the ar cones is bigger but seems like from the pic's I've seen it's not as thick...like the material for the surrounds on the regular paper cones looks beefier...is that just me? Funny how the people who have a louder system than you will usually give you a compliment about your setup because they know how much blood, sweat, time, and money you put into it. The people who criticize or try and one up you....have a p.o.s to no system at all and will tell you all about this "other" guys system! Saddley I'm sure if I meet this "other" guy...he will probably tell me he thinks your just as annoying as I think you are! I'm not compensating, just proud of fabricating! My build log: 10k center console with 4 DC Audio XL 10's powered by 2 DC Audio 5.0k amps 5 xs batteries and dual DC Power 300xps alts http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169404-goodvibez-04-dmax-10k-center-console-w4-xl-10s-custom-5ksit-plays/page-19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruze2 Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Such a nice install the quailty is great! 2012 Chevrolet Cruze Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheelz_pitch Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 77 pages of pure awesomeness. Love the build keep up the amazing work brother. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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