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IB wall not hitting as low as my box was


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I thought the point of the IB was to have the sub facing the cabin, and to use the trunk as the box its self, not firing into the trunk and using the cabin as the box.. some one correct me please?

I do believe you are correct, probably why he said it got louder when he flipped the phase of the woofer... IMO he'd have been better off just doing a reg. ported box sealed off and firing into the cabin.. As stated above IB can be real picky with cancellation and what not.. might be best to start over IMO.

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Decaf, on 01 November 2011 - 02:38 PM, said:

i provide the ammo for destruction, the trigger finger is connected to the volume knob tho

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I thought the point of the IB was to have the sub facing the cabin, and to use the trunk as the box its self, not firing into the trunk and using the cabin as the box.. some one correct me please?

I do believe you are correct, probably why he said it got louder when he flipped the phase of the woofer... IMO he'd have been better off just doing a reg. ported box sealed off and firing into the cabin.. As stated above IB can be real picky with cancellation and what not.. might be best to start over IMO.

I agree, when you get into modifying the car itself, things can get tricky and you're bumping your build up to the next level if you want to be satisfied with the results.
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wall is 3/4" birch ply :) i realy like having the wall, i want to use it as the front of the box if i cant make the wall work. im hoping sealing will fix everything but im kind of doubting it. its a night/day difference from old box.

also about the bottoming out, sometimes the note is really quiet, every once and a while i get a note where it sounds like a rapid fire bass note but its awful and no vibration/bass really comes from it.

its more bearable with the backseat down, but its still not as low..

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I really think you should go with a ported box. Like the others said, you are going to spend a lot of time trying to make this sub, that wasn't designed for IB use, sound good. There is a program on here (Torres' Box Tuning Calculator) that you could use to build a ported box that will sound better than what you are currently trying to do and you can tune it to the style of music you listen to. Either way, good luck and welcome to the forum!

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You dont have a wall. That is nowhere close to a wall. Its a piece of wood with a woofer cutout in it. there are much easier ways to fire forward in a box than what you just did.

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okay guys so im thinking my best course of action is to add wall pieces to make it a box and figure out how to tune it with a port.. im really stuck trying to use that torres calc, i have the dimensions of my available space but i dont get how to set a port.. this is the old box and i dont know what it was tuned to but i liked it alot, i could go even lower, i hear alot of people tune to like 30-35hz.

so if someone could point me in the right direction, my trunk space is as follows:

41"x16" and the top of the trunk is 8" while the bottom is 11" so it would be an angled back. id really like to keep this panel i already made because it looks so pretty :)

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I would make the box and then trim it to fit like that to be honest. It will be more work to try to work with what you have already.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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Box 26" Wide, 15" Height, 14" Depth. Port(L-port) 2" wide by total length of 32"/ this will give youa tuning of mid 34s, and GREAT port area per foot of airpsace. It also give you a net airspace of just over 1.5 cubic feet. You'd have to cut a port that is 13.5" tall by 2" inches width in that "baffle" you have. It'd be pretty easy to add the wood and glue/screw to make a good sounding box firing into the cabin. You'd also need to seal the front baffle off from the trunk so that it has a tight seal. Foam would be your best bet. Any questions or wanting a design, hit one of us up and someone would be happy to help. Sealing can be tricky btw, so that would be the hardest part of this build.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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sierra i dont have room for 14" deep, i can go wider and use an angled back, will that affect freq if i kept same air space? im thinkin of boxing up the whole area i have thatd give me 2.67cu/ft according to torres calc. but then i dont know how to figure the port out for that setup. the dimensions for the port you said on that box put it at 32.22hz again according to that calc. that would work i thin right? when a port is tuned that means 32hz is the lowest it goes right? or is it s peak or something, i dont undestand what tuning a port exactly is but i know its important.

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If you box up the entire area, you're giving too much air to the sub. And no, tuning frequency doesnt mean it's as low as the sub can hit. You will have plenty of lows below and above that frequency. It looked like you had plenty of room to run the depth that i put in for you, maybe not. If this all is very confusing for you, I'd suggest reading more and learing how it work, or simply building a SEALED enclosure to avoid having to tune a port. Sealed mat not be quite as loud, but if done properly, will sound just fine in your ride dude.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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