Dillan Turvold Posted June 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 I was thinkin abour makin a box w/ 1 12, 2 8" mids and having them all in seperate chambers ofc, 8" mids need boxes right? why do you want to do this? cuz it would look sexy w/ fiberglass? It'd basically be 3 boxes, 1 with 2 cu ft. of space and the other 2 would obviously be much smaller just attached to the sides of that box.. fiberglass it all together to make an appearance w/ the back seat down... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 I was thinkin abour makin a box w/ 1 12, 2 8" mids and having them all in seperate chambers ofc, 8" mids need boxes right? Without throwing your specs into Torres, I don't need to. Your port area is DEFINITELY too small. Start over with all wood and do an L-Port. Also, don't tune so low on those subs. 33-34 would still dig low enough for music and also hit your mid 40s just fine. Build a new box, that's the best advice I can give. Don't modify, don't tweek, start over fresh. Quote Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillan Turvold Posted June 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 I was thinkin abour makin a box w/ 1 12, 2 8" mids and having them all in seperate chambers ofc, 8" mids need boxes right? Without throwing your specs into Torres, I don't need to. Your port area is DEFINITELY too small. Start over with all wood and do an L-Port. Also, don't tune so low on those subs. 33-34 would still dig low enough for music and also hit your mid 40s just fine. Build a new box, that's the best advice I can give. Don't modify, don't tweek, start over fresh. I have plenty of mdf fiberboard.. so i might just do that. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 I concur with building a new box What thickness mdf I'd that is look a bit small? If you want post you dimensions that you can build to and try for another design box, When you get a good designed and built ported box you'll notic the difference, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 (edited) without any new box dimensions, i cant assist with an L-port as the net ends up to small this will work with 4" plumbing pipe so it should help keep the cost down (will not work with aero as flare is to big to fit) it also basses off using 3/4mdf but i think in your pick you have smaller then that, 3.7net @36hz you will need some bracing in the corners, just havent drawn it if you can come up with some better measurements ill draw something better for you Edited June 2, 2012 by john253a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 I have some good news for you, i am currently building a slot port common chamber enclosure for the exact same subs and am using the same amp as you. I am tuning to 33hz, (bishes love 33hz) I have all the panels cut, and will begin assembly tomorrow. I don't have the same car as you but I will let you know how it does. So if it plays well for me maybe you can use these specs for your box.I decided to tune lower cause i am going to add mid-bass drivers anyway and my mids do 70hz and up really well. Also, at the risk of getting yelled at, those subs don't play well above 60hz in a sealed enclosure either. If the subs (kenwood) and the car (trunk car) are those on your build log then here is a suggestion: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 33 Hz Vb = 3.9 ft^3 External Height = 17 in External Width = 34 in External Depth = 20.5 in Port Width = 3 3/4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2x Front = 15 1/8 x 15 1/2 2x Front Internal = 13 5/8 x 15 1/2 Back = 34 x 15 1/2 Left & Right Sides: 19 x 15 1/2 Top & Bottom = 34 x 20 1/2 Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts: 2 x Front to Back = 17 1/8 x 15 1/2 2 x Extension = 6 9/16 x 15 1/2 Let me know any questions. Quote Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillan Turvold Posted June 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 I have some good news for you, i am currently building a slot port common chamber enclosure for the exact same subs and am using the same amp as you. I am tuning to 33hz, (bishes love 33hz) I have all the panels cut, and will begin assembly tomorrow. I don't have the same car as you but I will let you know how it does. So if it plays well for me maybe you can use these specs for your box.I decided to tune lower cause i am going to add mid-bass drivers anyway and my mids do 70hz and up really well. Also, at the risk of getting yelled at, those subs don't play well above 60hz in a sealed enclosure either. If the subs (kenwood) and the car (trunk car) are those on your build log then here is a suggestion: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 33 Hz Vb = 3.9 ft^3 External Height = 17 in External Width = 34 in External Depth = 20.5 in Port Width = 3 3/4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2x Front = 15 1/8 x 15 1/2 2x Front Internal = 13 5/8 x 15 1/2 Back = 34 x 15 1/2 Left & Right Sides: 19 x 15 1/2 Top & Bottom = 34 x 20 1/2 Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts: 2 x Front to Back = 17 1/8 x 15 1/2 2 x Extension = 6 9/16 x 15 1/2 Let me know any questions. that's great news man, definitely let me know how that goes, I have the resources to build the box, just kinda stretched for time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillan Turvold Posted June 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 without any new box dimensions, i cant assist with an L-port as the net ends up to small this will work with 4" plumbing pipe so it should help keep the cost down (will not work with aero as flare is to big to fit) it also basses off using 3/4mdf but i think in your pick you have smaller then that, 3.7net @36hz you will need some bracing in the corners, just havent drawn it if you can come up with some better measurements ill draw something better for you appreciate the drawing, but i'm adamant on having 2 separate chambers.. it'd have to be within 15"h, 34"w, 22"d, 3/4" thickness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Here is a similar enclosure as above but tuned to 34 Hz and on your dimensions (except 15 1/4 H instead of 15): Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34 Hz Vb = 3.94 ft^3 External Height = 15.25 in External Width = 34 in External Depth = 22 in Port Width = 4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2x Front = 14 5/8 x 13 3/4 2x Front Internal = 13 1/8 x 13 3/4 Back = 34 x 13 3/4 Left & Right Sides: 20 1/2 x 13 3/4 Top & Bottom = 34 x 22 Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts: 2 x Front to Back = 18 1/2 x 13 3/4 2 x Extension = 2 x 13 3/4 Generic dimensions assembly guide: Let me know any questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanitarium Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 There's no need for separate chambers, your ports are too small, your stubbornness is unwarranted, and NOBODY likes having midbass fire at the back of their head who actually likes their music to sound good. Don't mix subs, amps, or box sizes/types. Welcome to smd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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