weshole Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 It could be any of the things listed above. But unless you have any knowledge on what your looking for/at, your going to need to have someone else fix it anyway. I know wanting to save money but, in this case, bring it to a reputable shop and pay the diagnostic fee and KNOW that the problem is resolved. But if you insist on trying to fix it yourself... Here's a FREE thing to try. If there is indeed a heat shield rattle or even a catalytic converter with a loose element inside, it will not only rattle while running, it will if you hit the exhaust. So try this. Wait til the car is cooled off, jack it up, crawl underneath the car and proceed to bang the butt of your palm against the exhaust pipe in a few places to see if there is a rattle. Having had both the heat shield and converter element break free on different vehicles, I can say that this will help narrow down the possibilities. This video shows what can rattle in a converter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eduardo Andrade Posted June 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 I think the first thing I'll do is check for any rattling by shaking the exhaust/heat shield. If I hear anything the repair is as simple as tightening some bolts, right? But that wouldn't solve my sensor problem, would it? I was looking online for sensors in case I needed to replace them, have you guys ever used denso products? From what I've read they can't be bad, but they're cheap. Quote Clarion CZ401 Power Acoustik LT-980/2 dbLink 8 gauge kit DXi 104 4 ohm DVC x2 Sealed Enclosure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Denso makes quality products. Find the rattle first, then replace the sensor. Quote SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zapanater Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Old cars are always rattle traps. Heat sheild is a good bet. Otherwise check all of the muffler clamps, and make sure all of the seperate pipes are sealed good. I had an annoying ass rattle that I just fixed today. As easy as putting high temp gasket putty on the seam, and retightening the muffler clamp. Presto, problem solved. Mine was only at certain rpms too. If it's this old the O2 sensor is probably bad. It can just be fouled up from carbon buildup, preventing it from getting an accurate reading. Just pull it out and clean it off. Good luck! Quote 2015 Subaru Outback. That is all, I refuse to touch it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-dubs89 Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 i wouldn't be too quick to buy any parts if i were you . i have had a number of fuel injected cars that will have a code once in a while for no apparent reason , all it takes is one of many parts to read or perform slightly off to register a check engine light . i had a 97 buick century that would register a code for insufficient flow on the egr once a month , was the egr valve bad , no , was the egr circuit clogged , no i checked it all . also had a 95 dakota and every time i would drive 45 mph in top gear putting around in the country with a light foot it would register a code that turned out to be nothing . resetting the obd is a good first step at solving this , it you get the same code again soon chance are you do have a problem heat shields are a likely source of a rattle ,but so is a bad cat my opinion is that your cat is a possibility , i would also think that the o2 sensor that triggered your code could be a possibility of your problem as well i think there is a good chance that the o2 sensor in question may be full of soot or carbon , chances are if you were to try and remove it to look at it that doing so would ruin it as they tend to be stubborn and tuff to get out , even with the correct socket made for o2 sensors . if you want to and plan on solving your own mechanical problems i would buy a service manual for your vehicle , and not a chiltons manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricM9104 Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Ya its not going to be a converter, they rarely go bad .But it sounds like the 02 sensor went bad. A slow response does not mean you are running rich. Seriously you guys are picking things out of your asses, if you dont know or even have a clue ,you should probably not say anything . Best thing to do is clear the code, and see if it comes back on .If it does, then it needs to be hooked to a scanner to see the actual 02 readings . Or you could take the chance and replace the sensor . Your call. Lmao...Tell me why the cats went out at around 160k on my truck? No, it wasn't running shitty prior to that, its always been taken care of. Quote 2015 Honda Civic LX 4dr | 24k miles Stock H/U and mids/highs Power Acoustik GW3-12" D2 Sub HiFonics BXX1200.1D @ 1ohm Random 2.5^3' dual ported box NVX LOC Stinger wiring throughout 1977 Chevy SWB Cammed 350 Dual exhaust Cheap Wish stereo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eduardo Andrade Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 So I took the car to my uncle, and he jacked the car up and got under while I revved it. Found out this is what was causing the rattling. However, I still have the check engine light on, of course. Do you guys think the o2 sensor could have been damaged because my power wire terminals for the car (not my system or anything) are damaged and not making complete but nearly complete contact? I've heard about o2 sensors being damaged because of battery problems Quote Clarion CZ401 Power Acoustik LT-980/2 dbLink 8 gauge kit DXi 104 4 ohm DVC x2 Sealed Enclosure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-dubs89 Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 (edited) i don't think that is very likely , cam sensors are sensitive like that but o2 sensors not so much , what happens to o2 sensors a lot is getting contaminated with carbon and ash, o2 sensors work by reacting to the exhaust flow and produce a small voltage as a result of the exhaust gases . you can actually test an o2 sensor with a volt meter have you cleared the code yet ? if so did it register the code again Edited June 7, 2012 by b-dubs89 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubpower Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 I bet you have a hole some where along the exhaust and I bet its right where the hing is. so turn the car on and feel around it on top as you can see the rest. also you light does not have to come on for it to be having a problem. get an emmision test done on it and see what it says Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-dubs89 Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 I bet you have a hole some where along the exhaust and I bet its right where the hing is. so turn the car on and feel around it on top as you can see the rest. also you light does not have to come on for it to be having a problem. get an emmision test done on it and see what it says that's a good point , do you have any exhaust leaks , that could also cause your problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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