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Lets sniff around... at OP...Why did you put a new battery in? cuz it went dead ? with that, When you intalled the new battery you just picked up, was there some bubbling, foaming, or a shit ton of corosion on the old battey posts and such??

put new battery in for the system im running, and i have no idea the local audio shop here put the battery in .

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Ok.... could be off,... but, if the new bats were in fact up to par,... then...

I have seen some wierdness where... a new car was bought, then, had starting problems then, was dead. WIth that, in 5 months, 2 new batteries were replaced. Charge (alty) was ok. Again, a dead battery issue arose. Car was toed to the dealer. A real tech dug, and found one HOT lead wire had a spot were it was cut, and slightly making contact to the frame. It caused a very slow drain or draw on the cell. Over; time, like, a couple months, it killed it.

But, it did cause some corrosion on the post, (why i asked) due to a low connstant draw. Look,.. im just saying it was a terrific find. Or, the dealership woulda just swapped a new battery in every 2 months. So.... a meter, and dig on the cables bro......Especially if your 8v is true.

Normally a dead bat wont even make it that low. Know what i mean? If in fact youve seen 8v, then, there is a constant draw........well, maybe to me.....

EIther way, and maybe im way off..... keep us informed bro.. good luck

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I would definatley look over the ground connections and power connections again, as kino stated earlier this sounds like a battery related issue. I was thinking it may be a fuse issue, but I dont think there is a master fuse for a car, so its got to be battery connection related.

This^^

There's GOTTA be a main fuse...Which is most likely blown. It'll be at least 70amps...

Blew mine on accident, NOTHING worked in the car.

How are you checking the fuses? Just looking at em? Check them for continuity. Or use a test light on the fuse, if one side lights up and the other doesn't, you got a blown fuse.

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if you got an accurate reading of 8 volts from your battery that is probably not enough for the computer to operate or any other systems .one way i test an alternator as far as working or not is get it running and carefully disconnect the battery if the engine dies after you disconnect the battery the alt is not charging and the engine and everything was running off the batt

the car wont even start so i can do that, and i thought if i put the meter to pos and neg of alt it would tell if alt is good or not. and i was wondering the same thing, idk what would cause the battery (if thats the case) to just all the sudden go shit on me. maybe a faulty battery?

i think you need to learn what voltages are acceptable. you said the battery looked good but then later said the voltage was 8v indicating a dead battery. if you tried testing voltage of the alt, with the car on, do you know what voltage you should see? it should be between 13.8 and 15v. going over that is damaging to you batteries. going under means the alt isnt charging properly or at all, depending on the number.

a DMM isnt any good if you dont know what the numbers mean.

why did the battery go dead? sometimes we, as humans, make mistakes... we forget things. like... turning a dome light off. some people make the mistake of wiring the remote turn on for their amps to a constant 12v source, leaving the amps on 24/7. hook up a charger and see if something in the car turns on indicating that its something you left on. guys, remember its usually the simple answer.

Edited by skittlesRgood

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